Finally got out to try my NP29 last night. I really like this pistol. I'm not a great hand gunner but I found the sight picture good and trigger was surprisingly good. Pistol shot just left of POA. I'm curious if the extended controls are easily swapped out for smaller ones. I could live with the extended safety but I'm sure I'm riding the extended slide release and causing the slide to not lock back on an empty mag.
Norinco NP29
- Thread starter Red Iron
- Start date
I was shooting Aguila 124gr ammo. I only had the one box with me. It ran through the box with no hiccups other than the slide failing to lock back on empty mags. I plan to use some hand loads next trip. I'm the second owner but I bought it as new unfired. I'm also planning to buy at least one more mag so I'll be able to see if its the mags as well. I'm thinking next trip I'll try to make sure I have my off hand thumb out of the way and see if the slide locks.
Rossiter93
Regular
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I don't know what the 9mm Norinco mags are like but my .45 doesnt lock back consistently with Norinco mags either. It's a great little surprise to see how much I'm anticipating and pulling the gun down when I drop the hammer and it's empty
Snakehunter
CGN Regular
- Location
- Kenora, Ontario
I don't know about standard 1911 parts fitting. I tried to swap out the barrel bushing on mine and can't find one that is even close to fitting.
Thats cause 9mm bushing on thr np29 is the OG colt pencil barrel. You need to buy a blank and turn it.
, which is what i am doing. Its the most expensive bushing ever on a 1911, close to $150 after all said and done.
Or you get an egw bushing and have either brownells or prophet river to bring it in.
Nothing on a 1911 is drop in other than the ammo and magazines. Everything and i mean everything requires fitting. Its not a glock or m&p.
As far as OPs questions, make sure you get a 9mm slide stop because its different than the 45s. As for mags, brownells 10 rds mags mecgar and tripp research runs good in the np29. You can try wilson combat, but so far wilson mags dont run in ALL of my 9mm 1911. Turns it into a bolt action. The follower on the wilson sticks up to far that it drags on the bottom of the slide and effectively stopping it from going back all the way thus not having energy to pick up the next round
, which is what i am doing. Its the most expensive bushing ever on a 1911, close to $150 after all said and done.
Or you get an egw bushing and have either brownells or prophet river to bring it in.
Nothing on a 1911 is drop in other than the ammo and magazines. Everything and i mean everything requires fitting. Its not a glock or m&p.
As far as OPs questions, make sure you get a 9mm slide stop because its different than the 45s. As for mags, brownells 10 rds mags mecgar and tripp research runs good in the np29. You can try wilson combat, but so far wilson mags dont run in ALL of my 9mm 1911. Turns it into a bolt action. The follower on the wilson sticks up to far that it drags on the bottom of the slide and effectively stopping it from going back all the way thus not having energy to pick up the next round
If it's your gun why not trim back the extended slide lock/release to suit your own hands? It's not a big metal working project. But to avoid going too far too fast I'd suggest using hand tools.
Mount the slide lock in a vise or purpose made wooden clamp to hold it securely. Then use metal files to carve away the parts that you make contact with a bit too easily. Then polish the surfaces with abrasives.
Look around at "1911 images" from a search on the overall web for ideas of what to make it look like.
And hey, if you mess up and go a little too far THEN buy a new slide lock/release.
I'm in the camp that hates extended slide locks and safeties on any handgun. But then I've got larger size hands and that leads me to fouling or riding them way too easily.
You might also consider that an overly strong recoil spring for the ammo you use can cause the slide to not lock back. While pointing safely at the berm take a couple of shots and watch how far the empty brass flies. If it barely dribbles out over your hand or has a really short arc and pretty much falls to the ground within a meter of your feet you might have a mismatch of spring to ammo. A softer spring or more powerful ammo will provide you a more energetic flight of the empties and could well result in the slide locking back if you're not riding the lever as you suspect.
Mount the slide lock in a vise or purpose made wooden clamp to hold it securely. Then use metal files to carve away the parts that you make contact with a bit too easily. Then polish the surfaces with abrasives.
Look around at "1911 images" from a search on the overall web for ideas of what to make it look like.
And hey, if you mess up and go a little too far THEN buy a new slide lock/release.
I'm in the camp that hates extended slide locks and safeties on any handgun. But then I've got larger size hands and that leads me to fouling or riding them way too easily.
You might also consider that an overly strong recoil spring for the ammo you use can cause the slide to not lock back. While pointing safely at the berm take a couple of shots and watch how far the empty brass flies. If it barely dribbles out over your hand or has a really short arc and pretty much falls to the ground within a meter of your feet you might have a mismatch of spring to ammo. A softer spring or more powerful ammo will provide you a more energetic flight of the empties and could well result in the slide locking back if you're not riding the lever as you suspect.
BCRider, I have a standard slide lock on the way from a fellow gunnut that came off another NP29 so I think I'm covered on that one, but just this morning I was thinking exactly what you are talking about to "tune" the safety to my liking. I have nothing to lose really if I mess it up I'll buy a new one. The main reason I got thinking about shaping it was I read an article on the weekend that basically stated everything on a 1911 needs to be fitted. My safety is already fitted and works on my pistol. The shaping I want to do is external and won't affect function. I think you have helped convince me to go that route. What would you recommend for finish on the bare metal when I'm done?
I feel that I have to add another comment to this thread.
I have had many Norinco 1911's over the years. .45ACP , 9MM and converted one to 400 Corbon.
Norinco 1911's are noted for having very good steel and that all the holes are in the correct place.
Yes, they have metric grip screw bushings and yes, the sights are usually very tight in the dovetails.
And yes, the finish could be better.
I have changed numerous internal & external parts over the years & the drop in replacements fit
as well as they would going on to a Colt or other well know make.
I am not a gunsmith but my experience with Norinco's is that parts fit
as good as , or in some cases better , other quality 1911's.
Years ago before the U.S. banned the import of them , Bill Wilson of Wilson combat
would only work on 3 makes. Colt, Springfield & Norinco.
I recently bought a SAM frame to build a pistol. Gave up. Not even the mag catch
would go in.
Am I a fan of Norc 1911's ??. Yes. They work, a little rough around the edges but
that is why they cost less.
I have had many Norinco 1911's over the years. .45ACP , 9MM and converted one to 400 Corbon.
Norinco 1911's are noted for having very good steel and that all the holes are in the correct place.
Yes, they have metric grip screw bushings and yes, the sights are usually very tight in the dovetails.
And yes, the finish could be better.
I have changed numerous internal & external parts over the years & the drop in replacements fit
as well as they would going on to a Colt or other well know make.
I am not a gunsmith but my experience with Norinco's is that parts fit
as good as , or in some cases better , other quality 1911's.
Years ago before the U.S. banned the import of them , Bill Wilson of Wilson combat
would only work on 3 makes. Colt, Springfield & Norinco.
I recently bought a SAM frame to build a pistol. Gave up. Not even the mag catch
would go in.
Am I a fan of Norc 1911's ??. Yes. They work, a little rough around the edges but
that is why they cost less.
I replaced the slide stop on my NP29 with a Wilson Combat part, the one for 9mm or .38 Super since I hated the look of the Norinco extended slide stop. I also put King sights on mine as I had the narrow tenon front sight as mine was an older model, not like the newer dovetailed guns. All parts fit fine and the guns was 100% reliable with MecGar 9mm mags.
When I've modified parts like this I've touched up the bare metal with cold blue. Having used a couple of different brands my favorite and what I found to be the darkest finish is from G96 Gun Blue Cream. It doesn't say on the instructions but I did find that it seems to take and hold a bit darker if the part is first run in hot water and then again rinsed and brushed off in the same hot water. Then dry and oil right away. The resulting almost black finish is a pretty good match for the dark oxide finish on the Norinco guns.
It's certainly unfair to say that ALL parts in ALL 1911's need to be fitted. But it would be equally naive to just assume that any parts will just drop in. When they do life is good. But if some parts are not quite in spec either from the factory or due to some user work things can stack up. And it seems like the grip and thumb safeties are at the end of the line where the stack up of tolerances can often lead to needing a bit of work to function correctly. Not always mind you. But it's happened to me where I had to swap parts around to find one that worked. Next step would have been a new "oversized" thumb safety and trim to where it functioned correctly.
For you it's an issue of the slide lock. For myself it's the often over size thumb safeties. My hands are such that if I try to ride the safety my hand rises off the grip safety. So I'm a big fan of the small "military" size thumb safety shape so I can lay my thumb lower over the safety and the curved shape nestles into the soft tissue between the base and last knuckles of my thumb. And since I'm about to get into using 1911's for some of my match shooting I'm sort of keen on using the smaller thumb safeties so there is a little less possible issue of something knocking them to the "FIRE" position when I've got the gun in the holster. Not a big deal I know. But it pays to be careful of stuff like this. Especially since it'll be a close fitting IDPA style holster.
