i shoot a 280 AI and currently use nosler brass, but after talking to a few folks i have been told that the primer pockets will loosen up early. is this true and if so what options do i have?. is the norma brass as good as the lapua? i would like to go with the lapua but have also read about the dreaded doughnut that forms when necking down 30-06 brass. thanks
norma brass quality
- Thread starter bingo1010
- Start date
Altough I am a die-hard Lapua fan, I have Nosler brass in 308 and 6XC. In any case. the "Doughnut" is not an issue if your bullets are seated deep enough in your cases (Base of bullet at the same level as the shoulder/body junction). If they are higher, then a 7mm expander mandrel will get rid of doughnuts. Run the brass through the expander and then outside neck turn to clean up at the neck shoulder junction.
Lapua 30-06 brass would be real sweet in a 280 AI....
Lapua 30-06 brass would be real sweet in a 280 AI....
Norma brass is and always has been, soft. It's important to point out though, loads which loosen primer pockets in Norma brass are probably too hot anyway. The same is true of Federal brass. Winchester brass has always been the hardest of the domestically produced brass for those who want to hot rod a bit.
The so-called "dreaded doughnut" occurs when brass has been neck turned. If not turned far enough down, thick brass is left at the base of the neck. Even if the brass is turned down far enough, normal migration of the brass will eventually form a doughnut. Removal of the doughnut requires reaming of the neck. Expanding and turning doesn't do a good job of correcting this. None of this would be a problem with unturned, necked down 30/06 brass. The brass would end up a bit short but at least you would never have to trim! Regards, Bill
The so-called "dreaded doughnut" occurs when brass has been neck turned. If not turned far enough down, thick brass is left at the base of the neck. Even if the brass is turned down far enough, normal migration of the brass will eventually form a doughnut. Removal of the doughnut requires reaming of the neck. Expanding and turning doesn't do a good job of correcting this. None of this would be a problem with unturned, necked down 30/06 brass. The brass would end up a bit short but at least you would never have to trim! Regards, Bill
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When you use 30-06 to form 280AI brass, it is advisable to neck turn the necks after fireforming (I don't use bullets). That way you eliminate any wonkles that occured during the sizing process and you thin the brass at the neck/shoulder area so donuts are not a big deal.
Sharp shouldered cases have very little brass migration back into the neck area. Very hard for brass to hang a couple of 40deg bends
Big reason why I use them often in my wildcats.
Brass stretching is also better controlled if the chamber/action is well set up.
As Bill has said, if conventional 'soft' brands of brass loose their primer pockets in a couple of firings, we are running loads on the warm side. Yes, most match loads are toasty!.
However, with the cost of brass, having them survive multiple firings is a great idea. Especially, if you have to work to form them in the first place.
I used Fed GM when it was available (never met any soft brass). Now I use Win almost exclusively. Norma is soft but the stuff made for Tubbs in the 6XC is supposed to be reinforced??????
Good luck with your project. It is alot of fun to use this cartridge. My version the 7 Mystic, headspaces to use 7RM collet neck dies. Saved on getting new dies.
Jerry
Sharp shouldered cases have very little brass migration back into the neck area. Very hard for brass to hang a couple of 40deg bends
Big reason why I use them often in my wildcats.Brass stretching is also better controlled if the chamber/action is well set up.
As Bill has said, if conventional 'soft' brands of brass loose their primer pockets in a couple of firings, we are running loads on the warm side. Yes, most match loads are toasty!.
However, with the cost of brass, having them survive multiple firings is a great idea. Especially, if you have to work to form them in the first place.
I used Fed GM when it was available (never met any soft brass). Now I use Win almost exclusively. Norma is soft but the stuff made for Tubbs in the 6XC is supposed to be reinforced??????
Good luck with your project. It is alot of fun to use this cartridge. My version the 7 Mystic, headspaces to use 7RM collet neck dies. Saved on getting new dies.
Jerry
so if i were to get 06 lapua brass and neck it to 7mm i could then proceed directly to fireform it in my ai ?. would this also apply to the 284 i am in the process of building? as in can i just size up 6.5x284 lapua brass to 7mm and fire away? thanks. i have a fair jag of reloading experience, but when it comes to this modifying cases it is all new
If in fact you do get a doughnut the mandrels for the K&M neck turner have a cutter on them to remove it. Depending on the neck of the reamer your smith used you may have to turn the necks anyhow as they will thicken up considerably when you neck them down.
kind of off on a side note, regarding the winchester brass quality, i agree that it is the best " commonly available " brass, but it is olnly made in nickel for the 280, what is the concensus on putting nickel brass in a custom rifle? being an ai cartridge there will be less bolt thrust so chamber " grab" is less of a consideration. it is just that i have 1 280 ai already and if i build another i need some way of keeping the brass from the 2 rifles seperate. so if i keep the nosler brass for one ...possibly i could use winchester nickel in the other and avoid mixing up my brass. i am totally happy with the performance of my 280 but am considering a 284 due to increased barrel life. currently i don't use all of the 280 case so i figure i should be able to get the same speed out of a 284 case if i fill er up.....no?
A wrinkle or bulge or other unsightly blemish in the brass. - dan
