Nr4Mk1* MPI at 100m? and feed problem

rhino519

rhino519

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Took my Nr4 to the range on Fri and noticed that my MPI is 5in above POA, is that correct with the 300/600m flip type rear sight?

the gun shoot like a dream, about 1.5in groupings, when I put in my part, though Im having feed problems, ftf 1st and last round, got to make sure all rounds are lined up before I close the bolt, and I have to push last round in before it will fee properly, Im planing to swap the mags with my Nr1 to see if that will help but I got a feeling the mag is not correct for this gun

thoughts?
 
Sighted in with bayonet

Most No4's shoot about 3-5 inches high as they were calibrated with the 300/600 battle sight to have the weight of the bayonet on the end of the barrel!

Maybe change the front blade or get a MkIII adjustable rear sight.
 
6167 said:
Most No4's shoot about 3-5 inches high as they were calibrated with the 300/600 battle sight to have the weight of the bayonet on the end of the barrel!

Maybe change the front blade or get a MkIII adjustable rear sight.
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Agreed, the rifle was sighted in for fixed bayonet...and I wouldn't think twice about changing out the 2 position sight.
 
Like above, they were meant for the bayonet. Also, they were sighted in with MK7 Ball ammo, not commercial stuff (assuming your using com).

And your right about the No.1 mag, they "might" fit but they are slightly different. try tweaking the lips on your mag.
 
I've never heard that the No 4 rifle was zeroed with the bayonet fixed, ever. They certainly weren't when used for military competition. Even the No1 mkIII wasn't zeroed with a bayonet, since the bayonet is removed for shooting at ranges where the sights were used, and fixed for 'close-in' work. The issue with the POA/POI is simply that the rifle does not have sights calibrated at 100m. The sights on your rifle are calibrated to POI at 300m and 600m. Using the 300m aperture at 100m, the bullet is still climbing in it's trajectory as it hits the target, because it's trajectory is to hit at 300. The Lee Enfield was never equipped with sights for "accurate" shooting at 100m - in fact there are lots of folks who'll tell you that the 303 bullet isn't fully stable at 100 yards, so shooting for accuracy at 100 is a waste of time, since most of them shoot better at greater distance. As far as the magazine goes, a No1 mag will not work in a No4 rifle- they look the same, but they aren't.
 
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rhino519 said:
Ill try that, as for the MkIII sight; is it straight replacement or do I need to fidle it a bit to fit on?
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Drops right in...it still isn't windage adjustable though, and actually you'd be better off with the milled Mk I sight...much higher quality.

Drops right in after you get that little pin to go up that is...you may need a long, thin punch. Some of them appear to be welded in place...
 
300m is the big aperture 600m is the small one. Actual trajectory depends on the external ballistics of the load (velocity, bullet weight, ballistic co-efficient etc.) The No4 was sighted for a 174 grain flat based FMJ bullet at approx 2400 fps. One of the things about handling the Lee Enfield as far as loading goes is that if you work the bolt like a Rem or other sporter you'll have issues. The bolt must be operated 'smartly' to quote the manual, which means more or less slapped forward and down in one quick, strong motion. If you don't use the bolt assertively, it'll hang the rounds up on the ramp.
 
The manual for the no.4 doesn't mention anything about fixing a bayonet before zeroing the rifle. Also exactly how does the bayonet affect the sights on the rifle. Might affect the balance of the rifle but I can't see how it would change point of impact. I'll try this out next time I take my no.4 out but I don't anticipate much change other than balance.

The sight is designed for 300m and MK7 or 8 ammunition. Unless you are shooting that combination it going to hit high untill you figure out the sight picture for 100m or change the front sight. Remember the rifle is designed to hit a man sized target at 300m.

I had a website where someone had a bunch of loads to approximate mk7 loads but it gone now.
 
thanks guys, ill take all info into consideration (hope i dont get flamed for using this old warrior for hunting big game :l)

the thing about the bayonet; I belive its called a "jump" a gun will have a different POI depending on what is/is not 'hanging' off of it and who is shooting it (size, shape, hold, force used to etc)
thats about all I remember from small arms classes, some members with DP2A prolly can explain it better

so I belive you should see a difference when shooting with bayo on, old enfields
 
cantom said:
Drops right in...it still isn't windage adjustable though, and actually you'd be better off with the milled Mk I sight...much higher quality.

Drops right in after you get that little pin to go up that is...you may need a long, thin punch. Some of them appear to be welded in place...
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X2, the micrometer rear sights leave all the others in the dust. You can really get finicky with the elevation adjustments.

Only a Parker-Hale sight would be better (if you don't mind the bulk.)
 
The Mk.2 300-600 flip sight is designed to shoot 6 inches high at 100 yards with the bayonet fixed, for hunting if you change the front sight you can set the flip sight for 50 and 100 yards.

The battle sight on the Mk.1 sight is also set for 300 yards with the bayonet fixed BUT sight in with the Mk.1 sight is in the up position and set at its lowest indicated position of 200 yards. With the sight up and at set at 200 yards the rifle is to be 3 inches high at 100 yards.

PrecisNoSARifles3-pg03.jpg


REME Precis No. SA/Rifles/3 (Zeroing of No.1, No.3, No.4, No.5 Rifles)

http://www.milsurps.com/content.php?r=331-REME-Precis-No.-SA-Rifles-3-%28Zeroing-of-No.1-No.3-No.4-No.5-Rifles%29

NOTE: Badger and Milsurps.com has the best collection of Enfield books and manuals anywhere on the Internet and all you have to do is read them.

My name is Ed Horton and I donated this Precis and many other Enfield books and manuals to Badgers website.

"All the information in the world is written in books and all you have to do is read"
 
The Lee Enfield #4 Mk1 point of impact is raised or lowered by exchanging the front sight.Available front sights for the #4 are as follows;
-0.045
-0.030
-0.015
0
+0.015
+0.030
+0.045
+0.060
+0.075
+0.090
+105
+0.120

Never, ever use a drift punch to remove the front sight!! The proper front sight tool is more efficient and can be manufactured out of an old screwdriver.
 
Never, ever use a drift punch to remove the front sight!! The proper front sight tool is more efficient and can be manufactured out of an old screwdriver.
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Don't forget, only Long Branch used the screw to clamp the front sight element. All the Brit Enfields were friction fit.

If they'd asked me, I would have told them to make the rear sight windage adjustable. Sigh.
 
lucky for me its a 1942 Long Branch, are the front sights marked in some way to tell which blade is on?

Ive heard about the sights adjusment tool from a guy at gunshow, ill be making one eventually, though i see no need to change windage at the moment, or adjust the elevation
 
rhino519 said:
lucky for me its a 1942 Long Branch, are the front sights marked in some way to tell which blade is on?

Ive heard about the sights adjusment tool from a guy at gunshow, ill be making one eventually, though i see no need to change windage at the moment, or adjust the elevation
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You can make one from an old, broken Phillips screwdriver, or buy one from our resident Enfield tool source Gairlochian.

The sight elements are marked with the size, see chart a few posts above.
 
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