Oh NO, I ruined my barrel with a bronze bore brush....

Never used any solvent that would get carbon out. It take mechanical action. Nylon is too soft, you can't scrub carbon out with nylon, you are kidding yourself running a nylon brush through your bore. Follow it with a bronze brush and see how effective the nylon brush was. I did
 
Never used any solvent that would get carbon out. It take mechanical action. Nylon is too soft, you can't scrub carbon out with nylon, you are kidding yourself running a nylon brush through your bore. Follow it with a bronze brush and see how effective the nylon brush was. I did

Agree, if you are damaging your barrel with a bronze brush you are doing something else wrong.
 
4500rds down the tube and it only has throat erosion. Unfortunately the 6.5 Magicmoor designers never thought about end game... that barrel could have been rechambered in 260 Remington and shot another 4500rds but no, the previous round has too fat a shoulder. If it still shoots well, carry on but if not what a waste of a still good barrel.

Interesting video anyway. While softer materials can still scratch the harder, I've always ignored the unfounded claim against brass. A man would be better focusing on cleaning technique and ensuring the rod is true, and not smearing carbon against the bore than worrying about brass scratching. Shooting the gun causes more wear than correct cleaning.
 
I use wipeout soaked for a couple of hours then scrub with a bronze brush. Patch it out and it’s pure black but the bore is clean of copper and most carbon I have found.
 
4500rds down the tube and it only has throat erosion. Unfortunately the 6.5 Magicmoor designers never thought about end game... that barrel could have been rechambered in 260 Remington and shot another 4500rds but no, the previous round has too fat a shoulder. If it still shoots well, carry on but if not what a waste of a still good barrel.

Interesting video anyway. While softer materials can still scratch the harder, I've always ignored the unfounded claim against brass. A man would be better focusing on cleaning technique and ensuring the rod is true, and not smearing carbon against the bore than worrying about brass scratching. Shooting the gun causes more wear than correct cleaning.

Rechambering a barrel is rarely if ever a good value proposition.
 
Rechambering a barrel is rarely if ever a good value proposition.

If it cleans up the bit of throat erosion, you are only out machining costs. Buying a new blank incurs those machining costs plus the >500 for the new blank. You would be correct if the rest of the barrel is badly worn, but if there are 4500rds left of accurate shooting in that portion it's a fair comparison of ~800 for newly installed for the same lifespan again vs. ~300 to pay the machinist for rechambering.

The barrel in that video looked very good still except the throat erosion... I'll be interested to see how long my 5r Benchmark barrel lasts. Time to invest in a bore scope.... ;)
 
If it cleans up the bit of throat erosion, you are only out machining costs. Buying a new blank incurs those machining costs plus the >500 for the new blank. You would be correct if the rest of the barrel is badly worn, but if there are 4500rds left of accurate shooting in that portion it's a fair comparison of ~800 for newly installed for the same lifespan again vs. ~300 to pay the machinist for rechambering.

The barrel in that video looked very good still except the throat erosion... I'll be interested to see how long my 5r Benchmark barrel lasts. Time to invest in a bore scope.... ;)

There's a major flaw in your calculation; you don't double the life of a barrel by rebarreling it.
 
You really dont know what your cleaning process does till you look at it with a bore scope.

You got that right Frank!

Thought for many years that I was getting my competition rifle cleaned right.
But when started taking F Class more seriously ... might have been you or someone else at the range recommend that I invest in a $60 Teslong from Amazon.

Crazy amount of carbon ring can easily be left behind when a chamber is "thought/assumed to be squeaky clean".

Reading patches can lie (a lot)... but even a budget borescope will always tell the truth.
 
You got that right Frank!

Thought for many years that I was getting my competition rifle cleaned right.
But when started taking F Class more seriously ... might have been you or someone else at the range recommend that I invest in a $60 Teslong from Amazon.

Crazy amount of carbon ring can easily be left behind when a chamber is "thought/assumed to be squeaky clean".

Reading patches can lie (a lot)... but even a budget borescope will always tell the truth.

Bang on......

I have a Hawkeye and a Teslong. Like you said patches can lie. I use aluminum jags to stop false readings. When you think the rifle is clean, slide the borescope down. Sometimes you will be surprised. If anything a borescope will help you nail down a cleaning routine that will give the results you want and need.
 
Bang on......

I have a Hawkeye and a Teslong. Like you said patches can lie. I use aluminum jags to stop false readings. When you think the rifle is clean, slide the borescope down. Sometimes you will be surprised. If anything a borescope will help you nail down a cleaning routine that will give the results you want and need.

After using one for a few years now, I have no idea how many of my barrrels were only half clean before I started scoping them to actually see wwhat is going on in there!:p
Cat
 
Basically 2 scopes out there that I would choose.

The Hawkeye and the Teslong.

The Basic Hawkeye will set you back $605.00 US from Brunos. That is in a cardboard case. With a hard case $727.20 US. To add an angled eyepiece add another $250.00 US. That is only 17" long. To get the 22" kit, it is over 1400.00 US. That comes with the angled eye piece.

Teslong will run you, anywhere from $100.00 to $150.00 CDN. this is either a rigid or flexible for a phone. It does the job. For clarity, the Hawkeye kicks butt. The Teslong is okay but lacks in the focusing department. The Teslomg is more of a pain to focus than the Hawkeye. The Hawkeye turn the eyepiece. The Teslong turn the mirror in or out. I find that ideally if there were a bit more threads to move the mirror more it would be ideal. I also find that the LED lights on the end of the camera a bit to brite. They wash what you are trying to see out a bit. You can control the light intensity but even turned down a bit strong. You can take picks with the Teslong on your phone. Maybe with the Hawkeye if you had an adapter to your camera or phone. The nice thing with the long Teslong you can actually put a trimmed piece of brass and see how it actually compares to the length of your chamber. You may not need to trim that brass as much as you think to help slow down the formation of that hard Carbon ring. One of the best uses when you get a newly chambered barrel.

Anyhow, all in all the Teslong will do the job. Now that I see there is a rigid one available, I may have to get one of them as well.
 
There's a major flaw in your calculation; you don't double the life of a barrel by rebarreling it.

You mean by rechambering so as to eliminate the throat erosion? Your assertion may or may not be correct: for simplicity I just assumed it was half worn. In reality it could be less or it could be more. Barrel life is determined by many factors, but the rifling in the OP as the example looked very good.
 
How does rechambering get rid of throat erosion? It can if you run the new chamber to the point where the fire cracking is eliminated. That is just not in the immediate throat area. You may have to shorten the barrel a couple of inches. Maybe if you are shooting a cartridge that would permit that and still give the results you want may be worth it. Barrel burner cartridges, heat kills a barrel quickly.
 
You mean by rechambering so as to eliminate the throat erosion? Your assertion may or may not be correct: for simplicity I just assumed it was half worn. In reality it could be less or it could be more. Barrel life is determined by many factors, but the rifling in the OP as the example looked very good.

The rifling may look good, but the question is has it lost its agging ability? In a hunting application may be okay. In a competition rifle is it worth the chance? If you can rechamber on your own maybe. You could see if it brought the competitive edge back. If you have to pay someone, I would rather a new barrel go on.
 
4500rds down the tube and it only has throat erosion. Unfortunately the 6.5 Magicmoor designers never thought about end game... that barrel could have been rechambered in 260 Remington and shot another 4500rds but no, the previous round has too fat a shoulder. If it still shoots well, carry on but if not what a waste of a still good barrel.

Interesting video anyway. While softer materials can still scratch the harder, I've always ignored the unfounded claim against brass. A man would be better focusing on cleaning technique and ensuring the rod is true, and not smearing carbon against the bore than worrying about brass scratching. Shooting the gun causes more wear than correct cleaning.

Interesting take, how would a 6.5-.284 Norma work out? Would it clean up the Creedmoor chamber? It should work alright in a short action, fit in the same bolt face and magazines, and cook off only a little more powder.
 
You mean by rechambering so as to eliminate the throat erosion? Your assertion may or may not be correct: for simplicity I just assumed it was half worn. In reality it could be less or it could be more. Barrel life is determined by many factors, but the rifling in the OP as the example looked very good.

It's not only the throat that gets eroded, and you can only set a barrel back so far.

Feel free to spend the machining money and try it, I would be surprised if you get much more then another 1,000 rounds out of it. May as well spend that machining cost on a new barrel that will have much more life left to it.
 
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