Oh well, 4th shot lesson learned.

You'll learn a ton more from shooting with a BP guy than weeks on the forum, but a few more tidbits.

1) As has been said, trickling powder into the vent goes a long way. Since you're shooting a flinter you should have a vent pick and some needles handy anyways. A needle will help feed the vent powder if need be. If you've got a nice flinter you can usually unscrew the vent as well. Ball just needs to get out of the barrel, doesn't need to do more than that. You'll have to check to make sure it cleared the barrel and if not reseat it and try again.

2) Doesn't seem like anyone has mentioned brass range rods. If you're in one place they're a handy thing - make seating a ball through fouling easy. It's a lot easier to over-compress your charges too, but with care it's a handy tool.

3) Use Goex.

4) If it's a wood ramrod be aware you can put it through your hand if it shears while ramming. A good ramrod shouldn't, but it's why people often switch to synthetic.
 
plinker 777 said:
argh, pyrodex, the bane of BP shooters. Go Goex or go home. :p (I hear swiss is alright as well? {joke. I'd trade my wife for a pound}
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I have been told that real black powder is totally the way to go. I am excited to try it out! Will likely buy a few pounds if I am able to.


H Wally said:
You'll learn a ton more from shooting with a BP guy than weeks on the forum, but a few more tidbits.


2) Doesn't seem like anyone has mentioned brass range rods. If you're in one place they're a handy thing - make seating a ball through fouling easy. It's a lot easier to over-compress your charges too, but with care it's a handy tool.

4) If it's a wood ramrod be aware you can put it through your hand if it shears while ramming. A good ramrod shouldn't, but it's why people often switch to synthetic.
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The guy is getting me something better than the wooden one that I have, and I believe you about it shearing off. It makes me nervous every time I have to use it.
 
Had a good scar in my hand from a hickory rod that came with my GPR that snapped on my when I was learning. Pierced it good. For years thereafter (until only a couple years ago) I actually used dowelling, despite all the warnings to the contrary. Found it was easier to predict when it was going to break and in any event, I had a technique for using my short starter that kept it from hitting my hand if it did. Also, I can't find proper hardwood rods here in town so if an expedient rod was needed, well I don't care to wait weeks for one in the mail. I'm not advocating dowelling, only saying "it works for me". It really isn't safe.

Now I just use a home brew range rod for range use/trail walks. Never looked back.
 
Another thing I figured out - if you're really stuck on using a wood ramrod is to use a tall thin sapling - strip the bark and dry it, then steam and bend straight. If you can get away with not breaking the surface anywhere you'll have a much stronger ramrod due to the grain being continuous rather than running out in places. I suppose selecting or making a ramrod from a perfectly straight grained plank would also work.

I realized this out from making arrows - the ones made from all one piece saplings can handle direct impacts against hard objects without breaking or shearing much better than those that do have their grain cut or crossed. It's pretty intuitive once you think about it, but striking a rock accidentally really highlights the idea :p
 
H Wally said:
Another thing I figured out - if you're really stuck on using a wood ramrod is to use a tall thin sapling - strip the bark and dry it, then steam and bend straight. If you can get away with not breaking the surface anywhere you'll have a much stronger ramrod due to the grain being continuous rather than running out in places. I suppose selecting or making a ramrod from a perfectly straight grained plank would also work.

I realized this out from making arrows - the ones made from all one piece saplings can handle direct impacts against hard objects without breaking or shearing much better than those that do have their grain cut or crossed. It's pretty intuitive once you think about it, but striking a rock accidentally really highlights the idea :p
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That's an excellent idea - good thinking.
 
I've got one of those CO2 cartridge contraption thingys that fit over the #11 nipple of a muzzle loader. It's just a press fit and a squeeze handle, kinda like a fire extinguisher. I'd suggest a shot of WD40 or some sort of good lube to help pop the ball out.

I've used it for unloading at the end of the season, so I don't have to clean BP fouling out of the bore any more than I have to.

I've also used it for unloading a buddies gun that he keeps forgetting to put the powder in. Twice.
 
H Wally said:
I realized this out from making arrows -
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That is a brilliant idea for the interim. I am also into bow hunting, and have a few unused aluminum arrow shafts. Would be nothing to strip the fletching off, no head on it, so it is a concave surface perfect for seating a ball. Thanks for the great idea!
 
You can also enlarge the vent of the flintlock by a few mms. They make sure the load fires, and it becomes more consistent . The inner area of the vent should be shaped like a cone with the larger area facing towards the charge. You lose some FPS per charge but more constant igniting. For the pan.use 4f or 3f some guys use 3f for loads and the pan, it works for them. Always fire black powder in your flinter , you will be happier and less frustrated with misfires and hang fires. Oh , you will find after all the trials you will find a load your rifle likes, you will too. Did I mention all your other guns will be sold because they are not loaded by the front and have a pan on it ?...Good luck,have fun, load safe.
 
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