Oil bluing help.

The bolt handles are copper brazed to the bodies, not silver brazed.
Red heat would be required to melt the braze. Heat several hundred degrees lower would anneal the mainspring, and the rifle could no longer be fired.
Cooey .22 barrels are not 4140 or other such alloys. They are soft mild steel. To harden a steel with enough carbon in it to harden, it would have to be heated red hot and then quenched. The front sight ramps on Remingtom M700 rifles were initially brazed to the barrels. Did that much heat ruin them?
I think I have a chunk of Cooey barrel in the shop. Tell you what - I'll heat it red hot and quench it. See if it hardens.
 
In my very limited experience, oil bluing has to make note of the metal and often shouldn't be structural -- but eleventy billion Lee Enfields were blued that way, so who knows? It's perfect for screws though. Lousy to get an even heat with anything that has curvature or thin metal. Maybe a job for rust bluing if you've got the space. If you want a rust bluing solution PM me and I can tell you what I use.
 
tiriaq said:
I think I have a chunk of Cooey barrel in the shop. Tell you what - I'll heat it red hot and quench it. See if it hardens.
Click to expand...

I have no doubts about the barrel hardening. It won't. But it can be ruined just the same, whether from warping, or simply enough, from the scale formed by heat in the presence of oxygen. High speed rust in action!

Some slob chucking whole gun parts into a fire or oven and hoping for the best, isn't the same as heat treating.

Cheers
Trev
 
Have a look at rust blueing. Tougher than hot blue and easy to do, you can have a really awesome job in a couple of days. I suggest Mountain Forge Brown as it works through fingerprints and such.
 
The only parts that I have ever oil blued - or would want to oil blue - are screws.
Have seen the reports of "oil blackening" being used for some Lee Enfield parts, but have no information about the process used.
Cut a couple of barrel slices, heated and quenched them. Cooey barrel - stayed dead soft. Remington 700 barrel (probably 4140, 4150 or a similar steel) - too hard to file.
Trying to oil blue a part that has been previously tempered is a really bad idea.
Warping a low carbon steel barrel? Might happen with uneven heating or cooling.
Could a Cooey barrel be warped this way? Maybe? Would it make any difference in shooting? Ever seen how far off center the bore can be in Cooey .22 barrels?
 
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