oiling my stock.. what oil?

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Wildfoot

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Ok, I stripped the finish off my 870 express wood. It had been refinished with what looked to be a thick coat of varathane. Now the wood is bare and I want to refinish it with an oil - and try and keep the original lightness of the wood if possible.

I have a can of Watco Danish Oil and a can of Linseed oil. Which would be better? The stock got some gun oil on it, should i clean that off first? or can i just put on the other oil on top?
 
Raw linseed oil works great. First, thin up some of the oil with a mix of 1/2 turpentine (I use the pure one, bought in "artist" stores (for oil painting)), rub with a cloth until the wood absorbs everything. Whipe out all excess after setting for one hour.
Let it dry a night long.
Repeat two times.
Then, when the stock is dry, put some pure oil in your bare hands, and rub to stock until you feel a heat. Let is sit for an hours or two, whipe excess. Let dry for at least one night.
Polish with a cotton cloth, and repeat the oil operation until the wood is saturated (the oil won't get into the wood no-more.
With a little pratice, you can even make a gloss finish.
If the finish is too glossy, use a 0000 steel wool to break the glossy edge.

Tru-oil is another very good product, use the same way, no need to cut it with turpentine and hand-rub until you feel it's sticky and hot. Do not whipe after rubbing (just put very little of the oil at the time in your hands).
 
Wildfoot said:
what is tru oil... would I have to go buy ANOTHER can of something. I would prefer to use either this danish oil or linseed oil.
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True Oil is a product made by Birchwood Casey and is made to make what you want to do EASY. Does not cost a lot.
 
Oil

I have refinished 100's of guns in oil. Please DO NOT use raw Liseed oil! The raw stuff takes longer to harden off and will result in a softer finish than you want on a gun. Use boiled or double boiled Linseed oil -- you can find it at any hardware store & if you want to speed up the process add a drop or two of Japan Dryer. Tung oil is also good.
I recommend Birchwood Casey's True oil, it's pretty foolproof & its faster than lnseed as the dryer/hardener is pre mixed for you. (most gunshops will have it or can get it)
Apply the first coat to the bare prepaired wood and wipe the excess off. Avoid the checkering! Depending on temperature you should repeat twice more every 4 hours. The following day apply another coat to a small area of the stock 3x3" at a time. Wet sand with 320 sandpaper (2"square patch - I use a white 1"x2" pencil eraser & wrap the sand paper around it) Sand with the grain until you get a slurrey. Wipe the slurrey off across the grain so as to fill the pores in the wood (blue shop towels are best (lint free). Complete the entire stock. Complete this process a couple of times with the 320 grit after setting 4 to 6 hours. Repeat the process 600 grit until your satisfied with the finish. Apply coats of oil, wipeing it off and drying (usually 4 to 6 ). Let sit over night - buff slightly with OOOO steel wool in circular motion. Thin a little oil with turp ot paint thinner (30%) and apply to checkering with a used toothbrush - wipe excess off and out of ihe checkering. Let set over night and then usung clean burlap pad, rub the finish with the grain briskly and you will have a beautiful finish that shines softly. If you want a shinyer finish apply a coat or two of auto carnauba paste wax.
Cheers, luck
 
Thanks for the replies. I am thinking I should have asked before purchasing the Danish oil... It was the only wood oil they had in a smallish container at rona haha.

From the great Wikipedia:
Danish oil or Polymerized Linseed oil is, in its unadulterated/pure state, a non-toxic, wood finishing oil, similar to Tung oil.

However, like tung oil, it is often used in various finishes with the addition of solvents or other substances, that are often toxic.

When used, Danish oil provides a satin finish and provides coverage of approx 12.5 sq. M/L (600 sq. ft./gallon) and is usually applied over a course of 3 coats, leaving around 6-24 hours between coats, depending on the mixture being used and the wood being treated.

Would this be better than raw linseed oil? Should I return the Danish oil and buy TRU oil - is it that much better? Is it superior just because of the ease to apply?

I would be quick to return the Danish oil and seek out the TRU oil, but it is an hour's drive to the nearest city that I can get the TRU oil and return my danish oil... and the highway is slicker than the ice at GM Place!

The shotgun is not anything special, I am just wanting to have a nice finish that will be fairly resiliant to the elements.
 
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i refinished my 30-30 with teak oil,
i cant recal the brand but it was from a boat shop for finishing the wood on a boat.
it looks great really shows the wood grain and is very waterproof,
I have a few nicks on my 308 savage and was thinking i should start sanding it down and do the same thing, i like the satin look dont go for the shinny varathane look.

Danish oil is good i used it on my door a year ago and it still looks brand new but not coated as the oil soaks into the wood but protects it nicly.
 
Wildfoot said:
Ok, I stripped the finish off my 870 express wood. It had been refinished with what looked to be a thick coat of varathane. Now the wood is bare and I want to refinish it with an oil - and try and keep the original lightness of the wood if possible.

I have a can of Watco Danish Oil and a can of Linseed oil. Which would be better? The stock got some gun oil on it, should i clean that off first? or can i just put on the other oil on top?
Click to expand...

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil will do a very nice job. Don't use raw linseed oil,it takes forever to dry and can actually ...GO RANCID....:eek:
 
303carbine said:
Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil will do a very nice job. Don't use raw linseed oil,it takes forever to dry and can actually ...GO RANCID....:eek:
Click to expand...

I have actually had rags with linseed oil on them catch fire :eek:. So if you use it make sure you wet down the rags before you dispose of them.
 
The risk of using just any oil that you get from the store is that it may not truly be waterproof. True Oil is a known quantity, and is about as waterproof as they come. Once you've finished refinishing the stock with True Oil, I would suggest once it has totally dried that you apply another product That Birchwood Casey offers called Gun Stock Wax. I would also suggest that you apply this to all of your wood stocks before and after the hunting season (twice a year), this ensures that your wood stays as water resistant as possible.
Mike
 
BLO is hardly an unknown quantity. I'm sure they use some sort of secret formula but one of the guns I handled at Holland & Holland in London smelled like linseed oil.
 
Wildfoot said:
ok well i think I will hold off and return the danish oil. I guess WSS will carry TRU oil.. anyone in kamloops know if that store stocks it?
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WSS lists it in their catalog p 186 in six different sizes and forms. 3 oz. liquid cost under $6.00. Phone and check.
 
H&H use pure Linseed oil. The first layers are thinnned with turpentine.
Raw linseed, when applied correctly, does a very good job. I've professionally restored hundreds of stocks with Tru Oil and raw linseed.

I think today's life makes you guys too hurry...
 
Too long ago to mention in years, I wasn't sure what to use and then i heard of a feller who mixed teak oil with tung oil 50/50, I have used nothing but ever since, brings out the best colors in the wood.
 
Baribal said:
H&H use pure Linseed oil. The first layers are thinnned with turpentine.
Raw linseed, when applied correctly, does a very good job. I've professionally restored hundreds of stocks with Tru Oil and raw linseed.

I think today's life makes you guys too hurry...
Click to expand...

I can only imagine how much time the H&H stockmakers must spend applying layer after layer of Linseed oil and rotten stone rubbing. The finished result is gorgeous in any case and worthy of the name.

When I smell Linseed oil, that immediately takes me back to fond memories of the H&H Gunroom. Soho (the ### district) is just a few blocks east, so watch where you stick your muzzle ;)
 
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