Oiling
- Thread starter SksA1
- Start date
Due to the AR gas system design (direct gas impingement), the AR needs a lot of oil on the bolt, bolt carrier, and bolt raceways. This keeps the residue from caking onto the moving parts, which will eventually cause jamming.
I run my AR's bolt system with lots of oil, it makes cleaning easier as well.
I run my AR's bolt system with lots of oil, it makes cleaning easier as well.
If you read the stickies maybe this thread would not be needed.
I used these when I first started...however, my cleaning routine is pretty pathetic now. Only gets a good clean and lube if I shoot a match in the rain.
Clean and dry bore and bolt face. Lightly lubricate (after cleaned) all metal-on-metal moving parts. If your rifle is dirty (interior surfaces layered in carbon) and is causing stoppages or slowing cycling, and there's no time to field strip and clean, you can loosen it up by applying more oil to said parts.
If in a dry arid climate, use only a dimitive amount on the essential moving parts (bolt carrier group) and leave the rest of rifle as dry as possible. Same goes for arctic because the lubricant can gum up and cause problems.
In a cool wet or tropical climate, use generous amounts of lubricant on the mechanism and cover most bare metal parts (exterior and interior) in a light layer. Due to the humidity, condensation and water will collect in the rifle causing fouling and potentially rust. Experience with the weapon system in Vietnam taught this lesson well, the hard way. Frequent cleaning is also required because the build up can be quick and substantial.
That's basically it. Anyone else who knows better feel free to add to this or correct me.
If in a dry arid climate, use only a dimitive amount on the essential moving parts (bolt carrier group) and leave the rest of rifle as dry as possible. Same goes for arctic because the lubricant can gum up and cause problems.
In a cool wet or tropical climate, use generous amounts of lubricant on the mechanism and cover most bare metal parts (exterior and interior) in a light layer. Due to the humidity, condensation and water will collect in the rifle causing fouling and potentially rust. Experience with the weapon system in Vietnam taught this lesson well, the hard way. Frequent cleaning is also required because the build up can be quick and substantial.
That's basically it. Anyone else who knows better feel free to add to this or correct me.
specialy in a sbr if you're not taking a oil bath while shooting then it's on the dry side. I usualy drench the BCG in CLP and run it until it starts actiing up the I repeate the cycle...
When I'm board or feeling sad I take one of the ar's out of the vault and give it a good cleaning...( about once every 2 years...)
When I'm board or feeling sad I take one of the ar's out of the vault and give it a good cleaning...( about once every 2 years...)
I know the C7 manual stated that as did the FN one and the Lee Enfield one.
While overseas I made my guys keep their C8's wet inside despite everything that we were taught for all those years. I did this because of advice from people whose opinions I trust and have had a lot of time in dry dusty climates.
When I was in Somalia we kept to the old adage of minimum lube and when we had our fun, shoot a crap load of ammo, times we didn't understand why we would get stoppages. We followed the dry in the desert maxim. "Maybe we should clean the crap out of the weapon and scrape all traces of carbon from every nook and cranny."
Thankfully it was "range shoots" and nothing serious.
In the arctic, use the arctic grade lube as specified. NOT graphite. Though that was GTG with the FN.
