ok im sorry its not a gun but it does have to do with hunting. Im thinking about getting a compound bow for hunting with in bc to get in the bow only season so my question is what would be a good starter bow to get and learn with
ok i know its not a gun but most of us are hunters
- Thread starter aaronfisher
- Start date
A bow is a very personal thing. It and the arrows must fit you properly. Go to an archery shop(not Walmart or Crappy Tire) and get fitted for both. Get some lessons while you're there.
Be prepared for some 'sticker shock' too. A compound with no accessories can be the same kind of money as a scoped hunting rifle. $400 and way up($1,000 +) isn't unusual.
You'll want to get some upper body exercise too. Shooting a bow, of any kind, uses muscles(back and shoulder, not the arms) that get used for nothing else. Don't buy a bow with a draw weight that you can't easily lift that weight of a box either.
When you get that far, don't try to shoot for hours at first. Practice until you can hit a 9" pie plate every time at 10 yards, then move out to 20 and repeat.
Be prepared for some 'sticker shock' too. A compound with no accessories can be the same kind of money as a scoped hunting rifle. $400 and way up($1,000 +) isn't unusual.
You'll want to get some upper body exercise too. Shooting a bow, of any kind, uses muscles(back and shoulder, not the arms) that get used for nothing else. Don't buy a bow with a draw weight that you can't easily lift that weight of a box either.
When you get that far, don't try to shoot for hours at first. Practice until you can hit a 9" pie plate every time at 10 yards, then move out to 20 and repeat.
sunray hit it.
A bow is a personal thing, you need to be fitted to it. They don't give them away if you're buying a good one. (Which I recommend)
But, you can have it forever... and range practice is virtually free after you have your equipment!
A bow is a personal thing, you need to be fitted to it. They don't give them away if you're buying a good one. (Which I recommend)
But, you can have it forever... and range practice is virtually free after you have your equipment!
Like the other guys said...be prepared to spend around $1000 to get set up with a decent machined riser bow, release, sights etc.
Practice costs very little after that..unless you shoot $20 ACC and miss the target (damn I hate that).
Boo...you are going to have the anti crossbow people "P" ing on you tonight.
Practice costs very little after that..unless you shoot $20 ACC and miss the target (damn I hate that).
Boo...you are going to have the anti crossbow people "P" ing on you tonight.
dinsdale
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Just outside the Ottawa City Limits!
I think you need at least 45lb to be legal for Big Game.
50-60lb being ideal.
New bows usually have 65%-80% let off so once you have drawn, you are not holding much.(Still feels like it after a few seconds though!)
As far as bows go, it all depends on price range.
Bear Archery offers some decent bows for between $300-$700.
PSE is decent , although a little higher price point.
Mathews, Bowtech, oyt are good bows but start in the middle $600s and run right through $1000+.
You will want a fairly long Brade height as that is more forgiving.
6.5" or 7".
Use a decent release, Scott archery makes good ones.
Lots pf practice.
With a release and a peep, most peopl ecan get decent accuracy fairly quicly with modern bows.
50-60lb being ideal.
New bows usually have 65%-80% let off so once you have drawn, you are not holding much.(Still feels like it after a few seconds though!)
As far as bows go, it all depends on price range.
Bear Archery offers some decent bows for between $300-$700.
PSE is decent , although a little higher price point.
Mathews, Bowtech, oyt are good bows but start in the middle $600s and run right through $1000+.
You will want a fairly long Brade height as that is more forgiving.
6.5" or 7".
Use a decent release, Scott archery makes good ones.
Lots pf practice.
With a release and a peep, most peopl ecan get decent accuracy fairly quicly with modern bows.
I hope that's the holding weight that you want after let-off. Minimum for deer (in Ont.) is 40lb draw weight.
Which is really light...think mid 50 to 60 lbs. Most bows have let-off of 65-80%.
Brands...PSE, Hoyt, Mathews All good, all $$$$
Sorry for almost duplicating your post Dinsdale...I started my reply then went for lunch
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Boo...you are going to have the anti crossbow people "P" ing on you tonight.
The traditional archers look down their noses at the guys with training wheels. Both camps have their own "purists" who look down upon crossbows even though they - crossbows - have been around a lot longer than wheeled bows.
Some fly fishers try and be superior to gear slingers some of whom look down on bait-fishers.
Some guys that hunt with auto-loaders or pumps are looked down by some guys who use only bolt actions. Some single-shot hunters think all repeaters are evil.
Hell in the old days the church even hated people who used simple slings. In 1097, Pope Urban II outlawed the use of the crossbow. 40 years later, Pope Innocent II forbade not just the use of crossbows, "the dastard's weapon," but the entire "deadly and God-detested art of slingers and archers."
In the end I really don't care what the hell others think as long as the local laws are being adhered to.
treebutcher
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Compound bows are a lot of fun. Find a good proshop like the guys said to get fited with the proper bow arrows etc. Try to pick a bow with a adjustable weight range 40-70lbs. As you shoot you will grow stronger and want to up your weight. Try not to get too heavy a bow at first as it will screw up your stance and accuracy will suffer. I have shot easton, martin, bowtec they are all good. When you look for a bow they are like everything else quality costs more. Welcome to the dark side.
Mount Sweetness
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Ontario
Martin makes very good bows at fair prices. If cost wasn't a factor I'd recommend Mathews or Darton.
A mid grade Martin might cost you $500 all in and should be good for decades. Check them out. The Cheetah goes for $350 and the Bengal sells for $385, they are smooth and fast for the price.
http://www.martinarchery.com/cheetah.php
A mid grade Martin might cost you $500 all in and should be good for decades. Check them out. The Cheetah goes for $350 and the Bengal sells for $385, they are smooth and fast for the price.
http://www.martinarchery.com/cheetah.php
Mount Sweetness
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Ontario
60lb
Lots of good advice here.
On brands, I had good luck with a Browning I bought a few years ago. I think it was around $450 or so at the time, but now you can get the same one in a kit (includes some arrows, sight, possibly a stabilizer) for a little less.
Again though, it's a pretty personal choice.
On brands, I had good luck with a Browning I bought a few years ago. I think it was around $450 or so at the time, but now you can get the same one in a kit (includes some arrows, sight, possibly a stabilizer) for a little less.
Again though, it's a pretty personal choice.
mission is like a lower end mathews bow. not neccessarily cheaper in quality but it doesnt have all the bells and whistles of a mathews. i just bougtht an 800 dollar mathews dxt and could have honestly got comprable results with a 400$ mission.
and i still wish id have gone traditional first. no sights to zero. no rest to tune. most bow kills are generally within forty yards anyways. very doable with a stick and string. check out the 69$ u-finish self bow demo on youtube. i was impressed! and as far as crossbows go.......i personaly think it defeats the purpose.....but thats just me!
and i still wish id have gone traditional first. no sights to zero. no rest to tune. most bow kills are generally within forty yards anyways. very doable with a stick and string. check out the 69$ u-finish self bow demo on youtube. i was impressed! and as far as crossbows go.......i personaly think it defeats the purpose.....but thats just me!
Another option would be to get fitted so you know your size and then buy a used on that will fit you.
I picked up a $999 PSE stl a few years old in mint condition for 300 clams!
I shoot an Oneida Black Eagle II and it's great. It looks complicated but it's really not. Dependable, forgiving and performs great. I have an Oneida Aeroforce as a backup and it is just as good except that it weighs more. If you can pick one of these up I would reccommend it.
In terms of the draw weight, you dont need to have it turned up as high as you possibly can have it. Find a weight you can smoothly pull it straight back, rather than lifting up the bow and pulling as you bring the bow back down. When bow hunting, same as gun hunting, its best to keep movement to a minimum. Holding the bow on the target and pulling back reduces percieved movement considerably. Also consider that you may have to hold the bow at full draw for a few minutes if your prey has a branch or tree infront of its vitals. When drawing back, make sure the weight is light enough that you can draw it smoothly without any shaking, jerking or any of that. In addition to being more visible to animals these actions can cause the arrow to either jump off the rest or rattle against it, depending on the type of rest. When you have to struggle to pull the bow, youll have trouble aiming it.
That being said, you should also make sure that the draw weight is high enough that the bow performs well. One person that I always see at the range had his bow set to 25 lbs and I tried shooting it. It does not group well (12-24 inches at 20 yds), the arrows fly on a very significant arc and it was a very poor performer. He cranked it up to 40 lbs and there were noticable differences, smaller groups (8 inches ish at 20 yds) and the obvious changes in arrow flight. Even at this weight I wouldn't be too comfortable using it as a hunting bow (if you even can use it for hunting anything at this weight).
My bow is set at 50lbs. I have a single red dot scope on it, sighted in at 40 yds and it consistently groups within 5 inches. On a good day it will keep them around 2 or 3 inches. One of the key points with archery, as with all shooting, consistency is key. Use exactly the same arrows, same length, same fletchings, same weight points and they should fly the same as each other. Rest the string at the same place, grip it in the same place with the release. Consistency is key. The same guy mentioned above used to use a cats breakfast of arrows and would get frustrated by the fact that the 3 of one type that he would shoot would all be close, while the others would be all over the place.
Good luck in whatever you choose, just remeber to practice lots and to keep consistent.
In terms of the draw weight, you dont need to have it turned up as high as you possibly can have it. Find a weight you can smoothly pull it straight back, rather than lifting up the bow and pulling as you bring the bow back down. When bow hunting, same as gun hunting, its best to keep movement to a minimum. Holding the bow on the target and pulling back reduces percieved movement considerably. Also consider that you may have to hold the bow at full draw for a few minutes if your prey has a branch or tree infront of its vitals. When drawing back, make sure the weight is light enough that you can draw it smoothly without any shaking, jerking or any of that. In addition to being more visible to animals these actions can cause the arrow to either jump off the rest or rattle against it, depending on the type of rest. When you have to struggle to pull the bow, youll have trouble aiming it.
That being said, you should also make sure that the draw weight is high enough that the bow performs well. One person that I always see at the range had his bow set to 25 lbs and I tried shooting it. It does not group well (12-24 inches at 20 yds), the arrows fly on a very significant arc and it was a very poor performer. He cranked it up to 40 lbs and there were noticable differences, smaller groups (8 inches ish at 20 yds) and the obvious changes in arrow flight. Even at this weight I wouldn't be too comfortable using it as a hunting bow (if you even can use it for hunting anything at this weight).
My bow is set at 50lbs. I have a single red dot scope on it, sighted in at 40 yds and it consistently groups within 5 inches. On a good day it will keep them around 2 or 3 inches. One of the key points with archery, as with all shooting, consistency is key. Use exactly the same arrows, same length, same fletchings, same weight points and they should fly the same as each other. Rest the string at the same place, grip it in the same place with the release. Consistency is key. The same guy mentioned above used to use a cats breakfast of arrows and would get frustrated by the fact that the 3 of one type that he would shoot would all be close, while the others would be all over the place.
Good luck in whatever you choose, just remeber to practice lots and to keep consistent.
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The crossbow idea is a good one, but learning to shoot a compound bow shouldn't be too big of a deal - it'll be fun. With a good forgiving bow, good attention to form from the beginning and a lesson or two it won't be long until you're shooting the heads off grouse. Best of luck!
RG
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RG
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- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
I was determined to use a compound bow. When I was younger, I was very good at it. Target wise, I could even make hits at 100 yards, and that with a 45 lb recurve. Not every time, but I wasn't bad.
At normal hunting ranges inside 40 yards, in those days, I took jack rabbits.
Something changed over the years. I guess it was the lack of time I now have to practice with a compound bow. To be really good, you should practice a hell of a lot. Several times a week is not out of line.
When I was younger, it was every day.
Anyway, as Sunray pointed out, the bow uses a different set of muscles than most people use every day. That, and a few other finer points, is why you need so much practice.
Me, as a canoeist, I didn't have issues with the muscle groups. It seems that canoeing works pretty much the same muscles. The first 75lb bow I picked up I could draw and hold with ease.
Technique was another issue. It's easy to slip just a bit here, and just a bit you can't afford.
In the end, I was forced by my inability to hit anything consistently to go crossbow.
I did get good enough to hunt with a compound bow, a few seasons, but it just wouldn't stay with me. To be fair to the game, I knew I was done.
The crossbow of course is a different matter. No more practice really required than with a rifle.
At normal hunting ranges inside 40 yards, in those days, I took jack rabbits.
Something changed over the years. I guess it was the lack of time I now have to practice with a compound bow. To be really good, you should practice a hell of a lot. Several times a week is not out of line.
When I was younger, it was every day.
Anyway, as Sunray pointed out, the bow uses a different set of muscles than most people use every day. That, and a few other finer points, is why you need so much practice.
Me, as a canoeist, I didn't have issues with the muscle groups. It seems that canoeing works pretty much the same muscles. The first 75lb bow I picked up I could draw and hold with ease.
Technique was another issue. It's easy to slip just a bit here, and just a bit you can't afford.
In the end, I was forced by my inability to hit anything consistently to go crossbow.
I did get good enough to hunt with a compound bow, a few seasons, but it just wouldn't stay with me. To be fair to the game, I knew I was done.
The crossbow of course is a different matter. No more practice really required than with a rifle.
