OK so, I'm getting into Handloading!

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bitinginfo

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Hello, So im looking to get into handloading. By watching tons of videos, and reading tons of posts on here, Iv learned this so far....

to start reloading i will need:


2 things... equipment, then components(materials to create the round)

the equipment ill need is;

-reloading manual
-single stage press
-die set( for caibre im wanting to reload)
-resizing die set?
-digital scale
-tumbler
-tumbler media
-bullet puller(hammer thingy)
-caliper(digital with case)
-case holders(2 or 3)
-shell(brass case)conditioning kit

If im missing any equipment, or you'd like to post your opinion on what else I should aquire, please post your thoughs.




COMPONANTS, to manufacture rounds i'll need the following;

~specific gunpowder
~specific primers
~brass
~projectiles


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


So far I'v purchased a Reloading Manual(Lee 2nd Edition Reloading Manual). This is my first step into my new hobby of Handloading. If you think, or recommend buying a kit vs seperate, feel free to enlighten me with your thoughs. Now, based apon my research, iv come accross alot of debate about weather or not Berdan primmed Steel Cased Ammunition can be reloaded, HOWEVER, I have seen videos myself of it being done, This is what I want to be capable of. To be capable of reloading 7.62x54r Steel cased, Berdan primmed ammunition. Eventually I will reload .308, and most of what ever else I shoot.


I am a Padawan, Guide me into the right direction Master
 
If you're reloading bottle neck cases you will need:

- Case lube (I use the Hornady Unquie case lube and don't like using those lube pads)
- Powder trickler
- Collet neck sizing die (not necessary but boy will it save you brass and having to trim cases)
- Case trimmer

Two loading blocks I find it plenty. You can always use those foam/plastic holders that come with retail boxed ammo as a loading block in a pinch.

Your die kits will already have a resizing die in it. What you might want to get is a universal decapping die. I like the LEE version myself.

For pulling rifle bullets, I prefer a press mounted one over the hammer version. Less messy.
 
to start reloading i will need:


2 things... equipment, then components(materials to create the round)

the equipment ill need is;

-reloading manual Lee: best all around
-single stage press RCBS rock chucker is awesome, doesn't break, can do some of the bigger shells no issues
-die set( for caibre im wanting to reload) Spend the money on redding dies, worth the extra couple bucks, much better then RCBS and very little run out on cases
-resizing die set?
-digital scale RCBS powder dispenser is better then the lyman one.. but the lyman one is a couple hundred cheaper and does the job
-tumbler stay away from sonic, just anti up and get a thumblers tumbler and SS media, if your cheap, all the vibrator ones work the same, just pick the one for the size you need
-tumbler media tough nut is a ##### to get out, green corn cob gives a nice dull shine and is easy to clean out of the cases... but as said before stainless steel in king
-bullet puller(hammer thingy) they all work the same, get one to match your other stuff.... the RCBS puller die for the press is wicked if you need to do more then the odd shell
-caliper(digital with case) Lyman makes a good set of digitals, but any that do thousands of an inch will work and they are much cheaper without a reloading companies logo on it
-case holders(2 or 3) get 4, thats 200 cases, or 100 cases as you go through multiple stages of reloading .
-shell(brass case)conditioning kit

If im missing any equipment, or you'd like to post your opinion on what else I should aquire, please post your thoughs.

-cases gages for the calibers your reloading so you can check and set headspace on your dies. RCBS precision mic kits are the way to go for this
- go, no go gauges for the calibers your reloading (also work as a zeroing reference for the case gauges
-Case Trimmer: RCBS is fast but I find it can leave the cases with angled necks, Redding makes a much better case trimer.
-Stuck case removal kit for dies, $20 now saves you from hours of grief when you inevitably get a case stuck in a sizing die
-if you plan to reload military cases, a primer pocket swager, RCBS makes a good set for the press its easy to use work and is fast
-Concentricity gauge: hornady makes one that you can correct the run out on the gauge... a nice trick since every other brand you need to drill a hole in your desk so you can torque the bullet strait by prying on it then recheck and repeat as nesisary.




COMPONANTS, to manufacture rounds i'll need the following;

~specific gunpowder
~specific primers CCI BR2 larger rifle.... work awesome good ignition
~brass if your shooting military calibers, IVI and LC brass is a good bang for the buck, low run out, good life, tough cases, avoid federal at all costs, its too damn soft, run out on the neck is often as much as 10 thou or more even in redding dies, anything over 2 thou starts to affect how the bullets interacts with the lands in in barrel.
~projectiles hornady makes so good bullets, and at a good price. Burgers are great for long range but tend to corkscrew at close range making their short range groupings garbage. i tired some speers, meh they shot ok, and same with the seirras. Not bad groups but not great either; non of my rifles liked them.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


So far I'v purchased a Reloading Manual(Lee 2nd Edition Reloading Manual). This is my first step into my new hobby of Handloading. If you think, or recommend buying a kit vs seperate, feel free to enlighten me with your thoughs. Now, based apon my research, iv come accross alot of debate about weather or not Berdan primmed Steel Cased Ammunition can be reloaded, HOWEVER, I have seen videos myself of it being done, This is what I want to be capable of. To be capable of reloading 7.62x54r Steel cased, Berdan primmed ammunition. Eventually I will reload .308, and most of what ever else I shoot.

I would strongly suggest not reloading steel cases, they are not ment to be fired a second time, they do have the same malleability like brass and are prone to cracking. This is dangerous and can lead to a case failure in the breech.
to pop baridian primers you need a bridian primer decaping die. On RCBS makes one as far as I have seen. essentially it punches out the bridge between the two holes making it one hole. It is a terible result and makes for wild swings in ignition as none of the flash holes are the same. Swings in ignition means swings in velocity; equaling bad groupings and wingers.
I am a Padawan, Guide me into the right direction Master[/B]
 
Last edited:
bitinginfo said:
Hello, So im looking to get into handloading. By watching tons of videos, and reading tons of posts on here, Iv learned this so far....

to start reloading i will need:


2 things... equipment, then components(materials to create the round)

the equipment ill need is;

-reloading manual excellent start
-single stage press having finally acquired a Lee Classic Cast, I heartily recommend it, beats the RockChucker hands down!
-die set( for caibre im wanting to reload)
-resizing die set? Comes with the die set
-digital scale lots of people will tell you to get a beam scale, but a decent digital will work for a newbie.
-tumbler not really needed to start, just makes the cases shiny, doesn't make them better
-tumbler media see above
-bullet puller(hammer thingy) get a collet puller, I have the RCBS one, but I'd recommend the Hornady one
-caliper(digital with case)
-case holders(2 or 3) normally comes with the die set
-shell(brass case)conditioning kit I do this all by hand, one step at a time. Lee trimmer, RCBS chamfer tool, Lyman primer pocket uniformer, Lyman flash hole uniformer.

If im missing any equipment, or you'd like to post your opinion on what else I should aquire, please post your thoughs.




COMPONANTS, to manufacture rounds i'll need the following;

~specific gunpowder
~specific primers
~brass
~projectiles


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


So far I'v purchased a Reloading Manual(Lee 2nd Edition Reloading Manual). This is my first step into my new hobby of Handloading. If you think, or recommend buying a kit vs seperate, feel free to enlighten me with your thoughs. Now, based apon my research, iv come accross alot of debate about weather or not Berdan primmed Steel Cased Ammunition can be reloaded, HOWEVER, I have seen videos myself of it being done, This is what I want to be capable of. To be capable of reloading 7.62x54r Steel cased, Berdan primmed ammunition. Eventually I will reload .308, and most of what ever else I shoot.


I am a Padawan, Guide me into the right direction Master
Click to expand...

Yep, you can de-prime Berdan cartridges. Yep, you could reload steel cases, it would probably tear your dies apart since they are steel as well, but you could do it, I just don't think it is worth it, steel milsurp rounds are too cheap and the problems inherent in the reloads, ie., springback to chamber dimensions, inconsistent neck tensions, etc. I would not do it, it that is me, you can give 'er.
 
lordevilpepper said:
to start reloading i will need:


2 things... Equipment, then components(materials to create the round)

the equipment ill need is;

-reloading manual lee: Best all around
-single stage press rcbs rock chucker is awesome, doesn't break, can do some of the bigger shells no issues and the lee classic cast is more robust and will reload a .50 bmg cartridge, the RockChucker won't.
-die set( for caibre im wanting to reload) spend the money on redding dies, worth the extra couple bucks, much better then rcbs and very little run out on cases
-resizing die set?
-digital scale rcbs powder dispenser is better then the lyman one.. But the lyman one is a couple hundred cheaper and does the job Not needed to load a few .308 rounds a week.
-tumbler stay away from sonic, just anti (ante, we don't want him to oppose us) up and get a thumblers tumbler and ss media, if your cheap, all the vibrator ones work the same, just pick the one for the size you need
-tumbler media tough nut is a ##### to get out, green corn cob gives a nice dull shine and is easy to clean out of the cases... But as said before stainless steel in king
-bullet puller(hammer thingy) they all work the same, get one to match your other stuff.... The rcbs puller die for the press is wicked if you need to do more then the odd shell have that but the Hornady cam lock one is better
-caliper(digital with case) lyman makes a good set of digitals, but any that do thousands of an inch will work and they are much cheaper without a reloading companies logo on it Canadian Tire $14.99 on sale
-case holders(2 or 3) get 4, thats 200 cases, or 100 cases as you go through multiple stages of reloading . i get the styrofoam trays that the blood vials come packed it from the MIR lab. 100 per tray, fits all '06 family of cartridges and pistoL to 45acp, but I am a cheap a$$.
-shell(brass case)conditioning kit

if im missing any equipment, or you'd like to post your opinion on what else i should aquire, please post your thoughs.

-cases gages for the calibers your reloading so you can check and set headspace on your dies. Rcbs precision mic kits are the way to go for this
- go, no go gauges for the calibers (cartridges) your reloading (also work as a zeroing reference for the case gauges
-case trimmer: Rcbs is fast but i find it can leave the cases with angled necks, redding makes a much better case trimer.
-stuck case removal kit for dies, $20 now saves you from hours of grief when you inevitably get a case stuck in a sizing die (never had to use one, just used a drill, tap, and a bolt. Oh, yeah, that's what's in the $20 kit)
-if you plan to reload military cases, a primer pocket swager, rcbs makes a good set for the press its easy to use work and is fast (x2)
-concentricity gauge: Hornady makes one that you can correct the run out on the gauge... A nice trick since every other brand you need to drill a hole in your desk so you can torque the bullet strait by prying on it then recheck and repeat as nesisary. looking into this myself, right now.




componants, to manufacture rounds i'll need the following;

~specific gunpowder
~specific primers cci br2 larger rifle.... Work awesome good ignition
~brass if your shooting military calibers, ivi and lc brass is a good bang for the buck, low run out, good life, tough cases, avoid federal at all costs, its too damn soft, run out on the neck is often as much as 10 thou or more even in redding dies, anything over 2 thou starts to affect how the bullets interacts with the lands in in barrel.
~projectiles hornady makes so good bullets, and at a good price. Burgers (doncha just love autocorrect!! Lol!) are great for long range but tend to corkscrew at close range making their short range groupings garbage. I tired some speers, meh they shot ok, and same with the seirras. Not bad groups but not great either; non of my rifles liked them.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


so far i'v purchased a reloading manual(lee 2nd edition reloading manual). This is my first step into my new hobby of handloading. If you think, or recommend buying a kit vs seperate, feel free to enlighten me with your thoughs. Now, based apon my research, iv come accross alot of debate about weather or not berdan primmed steel cased ammunition can be reloaded, however, i have seen videos myself of it being done, this is what i want to be capable of. To be capable of reloading 7.62x54r steel cased, berdan primmed ammunition. Eventually i will reload .308, and most of what ever else i shoot.


I am a padawan, guide me into the right direction master[/b]
Click to expand...
jmho
 
To the op You are not going to have much luck reloading steel cased 7.62x54r. I have never tried but conventional wisdom sez it can't be done very easily. YMMV
 
577/450 said:
To the op You are not going to have much luck reloading steel cased 7.62x54r. I have never tried but conventional wisdom sez it can't be done very easily. YMMV
Click to expand...

lots of things can't be done easily, but with some work (which some may find fun) it can be done. then again, lots of things can be done, but it's generally not worth it.
 
-ok I have broken the cam arms on Lee presses enough and have seen them come in lots with the same damage that i stay away from them now. if you want to reload BMG use a redding ultramag press.

-that digital dispenser saves me so much time, and if you have a semiauto .308 or whatever your not doing a couple your doing hundreds in a go.

-syrofoam trays is tacky, they develop static and collect stray powder, universal trays cost what $8? don't be cheap they last forever you only need to buy them once. you can also wash them is they get dirty.

-I ment calibers not cartridges, as the go no go are caliber specific and you need a set for every caliber that you reload.

- a tap is worth $12, the grade 5 bolt is worth $1, the allen key is worth a few bucks for the set it come in, the backing piece so you have something to pull against without damaging your die... well I don't know what your using for that. I guess you could buy a piece of flat bar, drill a hole, crank the die into a bench vise and then use that setup... but thats a lot of work, can damage stuff and ultimately costs more the the $20 kit....
 
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