Old brass vs new brass

MaxxiD

MaxxiD

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I reload for my Tikka t3x in. 243. I have 2 types of brass; first is old Dominion brass, seems quite solid and harder to size. The second is new federal brass, seems a bit softer and easier to size.

Take this with a pinch of salt as I have only been reloading for just over a year.

Which brass would you guys think is best? Is there even a difference?

They both have been shot the same amount of time and I don't anneal
 
Snider shooter said:
New federal brass is crap. Primers pockets usually go first, brass is to soft. I have been using Dominion brass for various calibers and find it holds up well. I anneal as I want my brass to last as long as possible.
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This was my thinking, just want sure as I am relatively new to reloading.

My boss has an annealer I can use. Maybe I'll pop down there and run my brass through before the next run
 
I avoid obtaining old brass. There is usually no way to tell how it has been used or stored. Of course, you say already have it, maybe you know its history.

The internet is full of bad opinions about Federal brass, but I have never had a problem with it.

In the described situation, I would focus on quantity. If you have lots of one over the other, work what you have most of. If you have lots of each, you can work up separate loads in each. Or keep one batch in reserve while using the other.
 
BattleRife said:
I avoid obtaining old brass. There is usually no way to tell how it has been used or stored. Of course, you say already have it, maybe you know its history.

The internet is full of bad opinions about Federal brass, but I have never had a problem with it.

In the described situation, I would focus on quantity. If you have lots of one over the other, work what you have most of. If you have lots of each, you can work up separate loads in each. Or keep one batch in reserve while using the other.
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I was actually given the brass as live ammo and fired it myself. Also, I have plenty of each.

Tbh, I have never really noticed a difference between the 2 when shooting them.
 
I use a lot of Federal brass as most I had given to me. I noticed in my Garands that case heads get beat up quicker compared to other brass and I get less reloads due to the primer pockets expanding. I was given close to 500 Federal 30-06 cases and figured even if they failed earlier than other brass it’s still usable.
 
In a savage twist of events, I'm trying to load some rounds for my brand new Tikka and the bolt won't close using either brass haha. Guess it's time for some new
 
MaxxiD said:
I reload for my Tikka t3x in. 243. I have 2 types of brass; first is old Dominion brass, seems quite solid and harder to size. The second is new federal brass, seems a bit softer and easier to size.

Take this with a pinch of salt as I have only been reloading for just over a year.

Which brass would you guys think is best? Is there even a difference?

They both have been shot the same amount of time and I don't anneal
Click to expand...
Any brass that is shootable and I have in quantity is OK with me.

Some of it is better than others for sure, but that doesn't mean you throw it away if you have 50+ rounds of relatively even average weight to shoot

I normally separate brass cases by manufacturer, then sort them again by weight, which, if excessive can make a difference on case capacities as well as pressures generated.

Now comes another issue. MOST people don't reanneal their cases when they start to become hard.

OP, I have Dominion cases for 308win, 30-06, 243win and a couple of others.

Some of those cases have been reloaded at least 100x and are approaching SIXTY YEARS old.

Yes, those cases are abnormal, considering what's available today.

However, all of the cases mentioned were set aside purposely for loads which were accurate, usually in the low to mid range offered by the loading manuals.

I have Federal, Hornady, Lake City, Remington, Winchester, Norma, S&B, Privi, Gevelot and Lapua cases, plus several others, including Western Ctg Co and a few more that have either gone under or been bought out.

If my loads are going to be used for "hunting critters" I usually load them as hot as possible, but still retain acceptable accuracy and I'm fussy about accuracy.

My annealing method doesn't require special machines or temple sticks etc.

I won't go into it here because the topic will suddenly change.

You don't mention how much you shoot.

If you don't shoot a lot, try to keep the manufacturer of your cases consistent, then separate them by weight.

If you can't do that for whatever reason, at least separate them by weight and make sure to measure overall length. Trim if necessary.

Annealing will definitely extend your cartridge case life. Not forever, depending on your loads, but keep in mind the cartridge case is one of the most important components of your loading costs and with very little effort on your part, other than doing some due diligence, you can save a lot of money.

As for loading "old" brass, why not?

I do it all the time. I also scrounge range brass, whenever possible. Some of the cases have been tossed because the owner felt they had been used beyond their useful span. Sometimes they're right.

Whenever I pick up range brass, it all gets inspected, washed, inspected again, then reannealed, even if it's obviously only once fired.

Most cases get reannealed after three reloads.
 
MaxxiD said:
In a savage twist of events, I'm trying to load some rounds for my brand new Tikka and the bolt won't close using either brass haha. Guess it's time for some new
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Review how you are sizing your cases. If the FL or body die is set up correctly and you are using enough good lube, it will produce cases that go back into the rifle it was fired from.

I think you said you fired the ammo in your rifle... 1F brass should chamber back into the rifle without issue.

If it will not, stop everything and find out why....

Jerry
 
MaxxiD, 200-500 would be more than most and not nearly as much as others.

I average 100 rounds per week these days, about half 22rf.

From what you describe, your cases need to be annealed and full length resized/trimmed. Pretty much a "classic" often heard description.

Brass cases have other compounds in their metallurgy, depending on who makes up the mix, copper, tin, zinc, etc.

Depending on the mix will determine when they should be reannealed.

I gave that up a long time ago and now load my cases in rotation, so I can do a large batch after three or four reloads.

I don't know how many rifles you're loading for, but I would suggest you keep the cases fired from each rifle separate and don't load them into other rifles.

The "one load" works in everything theory is a myth. However, some loads, work acceptably in most rifles they are shot through.

Likely I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but not all chambers are created equal, close but not equal.

That's why full length resizing, then fireforming to the chamber, then keeping those cases just for that firearm helps, as it brings conditions to as near perfect as possible and not often encountered with off the shelf commercially loaded ammunition.
 
Here's the problem; all these were fired from a previous rifle. I got a new rifle in the same caliber.

Also, I only neck size my brass. I don't have a full length sizing die
 
Well - Your old rifle has a larger chamber then your new rifle. Neck sizing wont resize the body of the case, so you need to get a FL sizing die. BTW - You're going to need the FL die regardless, as the brass will require resizing after several neck sizes anyway.
 
I use both, I have been using both Dominion and Federal brass in .38 spl that has been reloaded, conservatively 25-30+ times over the years while I was shooting IPSC revolver and Cowboy Action.

As for rifle in both .30-06 & .30-30, both brands of cases have seen at least 10 reloads.
 
cosmic said:
Well - Your old rifle has a larger chamber then your new rifle. Neck sizing wont resize the body of the case, so you need to get a FL sizing die. BTW - You're going to need the FL die regardless, as the brass will require resizing after several neck sizes anyway.
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I have been told this. Off to the gun store I go haha
 
If you want to extract the most from your ammo without alot of extra dies and fuss... Lee collet neck die, Redding body die, Forster BR seater. Add in a precise scale and you can make very good ammo.

Jerry
 
MaxxiD said:
In a savage twist of events, I'm trying to load some rounds for my brand new Tikka and the bolt won't close using either brass haha. Guess it's time for some new
Click to expand...
Just run them thru the sizer again. Brass does "spring back" as steel does and if it doesnt chamber usually another trip thru will give you usable brass again.

personally i think a lot of coolaid being poured into folks over the years is just hype to sell loading components....I am using brass in my Garand & 52' Husky that my old man used for 50 yrs and it is still usable, I can take either of them out & shoot a 3/4" group. If you accuracy requirement is the proverbial "hole in hole group then it might make you feel better using nothing less than "once fired" but for the average hunting accuracy, if I can size it to chamber I will use it.
 
MaxxiD said:
This was my thinking, just want sure as I am relatively new to reloading.

My boss has an annealer I can use. Maybe I'll pop down there and run my brass through before the next run
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New site....how does one comment without quoting another post.

Some of the premium brass is just that, premium. What's the best brass....ford/Chevrolet, pepsi/Coke. It's really all about your uses and expectations. Hunting/plinking vs target. What's acceptable for accuracy, is there a real world difference, you care about between brands. Do you load to a accuracy node close to or over book max. How many firings do you expect out of your brass. How consistent are you at inspecting and culling spent brass.

I'm personally a hunter that shoots a moderate amount per year. I expect sub moa accuracy. Often times, I lose brass in the snow or tall grass, well before i need worry to cull it. Common caliber is very cheap, since its reused often, its a fraction of projectiles and powder. If your in doubt, pitch it. Once you get into oddball and expensive brass, we'll that's a different story.
 
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