old double barrel husqvarna shotguns

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ratherbefishin

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I was looking over Tradeex's inventory of double barrel shotguns-specifically the straight grip, open hammer,underlever models.Some are described as in excellent shape''[and if Anthony says they are-they will be]

[1]-does anybody own and shoot these old shotguns?
[2]-I note most are 2 1/2''chambers-are brass shells readily available?
[3]-if they aren't-can regular plastic shotgun shells be trimed to fit and hand loaded?
[4]-are they best suited for black powder?

my intended use would be casual shooting- maybe for the odd grouse or rabbit,but if you have or shoot them,I'd appreciate any opinions/experiance
 
Some of them were made in the smokeless era and I have seen Husqvarna shotguns with outside hammers and steel barrels. If the chambers are actually 2 5/8" for roll crimp shells you can shoot 2 3/4 plastic shells but not paper shells in them without trimming, or at least I do in my Greener. Brass shells are available with difficulty but more of a nuisance to load. If the barrels are damascus, black powder or light smokeless hand loads but check the loading tables and keep your pressures down in the 7000 psi range
Almost forgot question 1; in the broader sense, shooting damascus hammer guns at black powder events is quite common in this area

cheers mooncoon
 
if I bought one-it would be more for casual shooting[like most of my guns are]I admit some intrigue for the old style exposed hammer doubles,and if the quality of workmanship and steel in Husqvarna shotguns is the same as their rifles,it should be excellent
 
I have one. I used to shoot 2 3/4" shells, didn't know any different.
I decided that exposed hammers weren't exactly the safest design and moved on to a pump.
 
Brass shells aren't too hard to find and you can load them with almost no tools. I find them very satisfying to use in the old guns.

bilozir.net or Epps have been known to carry them. There have been threads here on loading brass shells.
 
I would like some clarification on the safety/adviseability of shooting 2 3/4'' shells in a 2 1/2''chamber....is it a big deal to hand reload 2 3/4 shells to 2 1/2''?
 
ratherbefishin said:
I would like some clarification on the safety/adviseability of shooting 2 3/4'' shells in a 2 1/2''chamber....is it a big deal to hand reload 2 3/4 shells to 2 1/2''?
Click to expand...

It's not a big deal to trim plastic cases back to 2 1/2" and reloading is the same if using black powder, if using smokeless loads you will have to find recipes for 2 1/2" as pressure characteristics of smokeless powder is very diff...then BP.
 
ratherbefishin said:
I would like some clarification on the safety/adviseability of shooting 2 3/4'' shells in a 2 1/2''chamber....is it a big deal to hand reload 2 3/4 shells to 2 1/2''?
Click to expand...

In the June 2005 issue of "Handloader" magazine there was an article by John Barsness about an old Daly-Sauer 12 ga X .30-30 drilling that he had bought.

The 12 ga chambers are 2 1/2 but Barsness goes to great lengths in the article to explain that "2.75-inch shotshells do not raise pressures at all in 2.5-inch chambers". He refers to tests published in "Gough Thomas's Gun Book", tests at Winchester with a strain gauge as well as his own shooting.

However, he does go on to say "If you want to shoot a 2.5-inch chambered shotgun that's in good shape, either make or buy lower-pressure handloads - in any length up to 2.75 inches".
 
I would suggest that there is a difference between using paper and plastic shells. Plastic is a lot thinner than paper, and is far less likely to restrict the exit of the load in the forcing cone.
The warnings about chamber length originated in paper shell days.
Having said that, it is very easy to trim shells to 2 1/2".
 
I have one. I was able to get magtech 2 1/2 inch brass shells for it. I run mostly blackpowder but I am sure it can take modern smokeless as well. I just like the look on peoples faces when I shoot it.

You could cut down plastic shells but try and find some brass.

For the casual hunting you are describing I think it would be fine with BP.
 
Unless I am mistaken, what people are referring to as 2 1/2" chambers are actually 2 5/8" and were made for roll crimped shells. The walls of a plastic shell are only about .010" and only extend into the forcing cone about 1/8" and as said by Tiriaq, do not raise the pressures that high. The reason that I do not trim my shells is that I am able to close the shell with a star crimp as opposed to a partial crimp with a card wad over the shot when using shortened shells. If my memory is correct I used to use 7625 powder and loaded to around 7000 psi and currently use Green Dot loaded to about the same pressure. 7625 tables do show loads down to about 4000 but I found that I got too much unburned powder at those low pressures

Paper shells are .020 - .030" thick I suspect and potentially do raise the pressures because of the increased constriction.

With smokeless I use plastic shot cups but with black powder loads no plastic cup only muzzle loading cushion wads and should add a card wad below the shot as well. For hunting I use bismuth shot although I hunt very little. I do not use steel shot in my guns and most of my guns are fairly heavily choked which would not do well with steel shot

cheers mooncoon
 
TRADEEX has an old 2 1/2 chambered 12 guage double barrel Husqvarna with a bulged barrel 5'' from the end for $150-I was thinking of buying it-cutting the barrel back [which would basically make it a cylinder choke]and use it for grouse hunting-maybe loaded with pyrodex.The other one I was looking at was a 2 3/4 ''chamber double for $225-pretty good value
 
Sorry to wake this old post up, but the 2 1/2" cases are the 65mm and the 2 5/8" are the 67mm ones. Technically, both can be substituted by the other.
Many were reamed to 2 3/4" (70mm). But in doubt, have a competent gunsmith to check it up.

Basically, HVA shotguns made in the 20th Century have "fluid" steel barrels (above S/N 35000 there should be no more Damascene barrels, early "fluid" steel ones are marked "Sandvik", then, later Svensk Stahl or even Nickel Stahl) and are OK to fire with standard loads as long as they fit the chamber and complains with the old Gauge standard of;
3 dr. /1 Oz,
3 1/2" dr. / 1 1/4 Oz.
4 dr. / 1 1/8 Oz.

I'll try posting some pictures of the different hammer gun models availlable from HVA.
 
I hunt with my Damascus barrel guns al the time, with both paper and brass hulls, both roll crimped and fold crimped and at times I also load smokeless in the brass cases as well, for my vinrage guns that have drawn steel barrels.
In the case of the brass cases I have found that Elmer's glue sems to work best for sealing the over shot wad.
Cat
 
You can, of course, buy Kent 2 1/2 inch smokeless shotshells. Wholesale Sports stocks them, and others dealers too I would expect.
For short chambered black powder loads I use 3 inch plastic 12 ga cut back to 2 1/2 inch and roll crimp.
You will find that this will give you a cleaner roll than trying to cut back 2 3/4 inch shells to that length or making them shorter still to get rid of crimp. I find the hand roll crimp tool does a better job than the drill press tool.
 
I love my BP shottie. She's an old Belgian that I've proofed up to high speed steel shot but to stay on the safe side I load my own BP loads. I like blowing up jugs of water so I like buckshot in my loads.

If you haven't seen this, it's worth reading. Got my basic load from this guy. http://www.tbullock.com/bpsg.html

Here's a thread on how to make your own roll crimper. I'll vouch for this design. It's easy and effective. If you use it, let the crimper spin a bit in the hull to warm it up before putting the pressure on to get the crimp.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=329514

My loads are really simple. In a Winchester plastic hull (I find the Federal Hulls are a little tough for the roll crimp), I use any old primer. I have a scoop that measures out about 1 1/8 oz of shot which I use for both the powder and the shot. The key to black powder, (use FFg, by the way) is to use the same amount of BP by volume as you do shot.

Between the powder and the shot I put one 1/4 inch or so wad (composition of the wad doesn't matter but I use cork) and over the shot, well, you guessed it, an overshot card which I label with the load data.

Oh, the hulls. To prep the hulls, I just take a fired 2 3/4 hull and by hand, cut off the crimp. Presto.

Here's the shottie that I plink away with just to tie the post together...:)

1005730a.jpg

By canukatc at 2012-01-12
 
Paatz said:
I have one. I used to shoot 2 3/4" shells, didn't know any different.
I decided that exposed hammers weren't exactly the safest design and moved on to a pump.
Click to expand...

Just curious, how is it that you feel exposed hammers are not a safe design? What is it that you feel makes them unsafe?

Matt
 
If he is talking about a Husqvarna model 20 shotgun, its probably because you can shoot the gun with the barrels unlocked. These guns are from a time where if you blew yourself up by being careless it was your fault, not the gun.
 
Matt74 said:
Just curious, how is it that you feel exposed hammers are not a safe design? What is it that you feel makes them unsafe?

Matt
Click to expand...

Just noticed this question to my statement.
I had a experience where I was wanting to make the gun safe by holding the hammer with my thumb, and releasing the trigger.
The hammer slipped out from under my thumb and the gun went off.
The lesson here was to open the action first before doing anything else.
 
Re" safety with hammer shotguns
Hammer shotguns with non-rebounding hammers, that is hammers that rest on the firing pins, are somewhat at risk for firing if the shooter takes a fall and the hammer is hit.
Hammer shotguns with rebounding hammers and floating firing pins, are extremely unlikely to have an unintentional discharge by hitting the hammer accidently.
If the hammer of a outside hammer shotgun is being lowered from full #### without removing the cartridge from chamber there is always the chance of losing control of the hammer fall. There are many other firearms that require great care in decocking with a loaded chamber.

The above facts being considered, a careful shooter of hammer shotguns, who is always aware of muzzle control, should have no more issues with safety than with a hammerless shotgun design.

It has always been necessary for an owner to understand the operating parameters of the specific firearm that they are is using.
 
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