Old Ithaca 37 project

Grendeb

Regular
Rating - 100%
4   0   1
Location
Quebec
Hi to all,

Bought an old Ithaca 37 from a fellow CGN on EEX for a little project (cut barrel to 18.5" removing the engraving and paint it) I'm looking for some advice regarding the paint.
I am not interested in paying 100-150$/can for any types of coat/koat that needs special spraying guns $$$ that would end up being more expensive in paint than the whole gun price.
Apparently engine enamel paint are quite popular since they resist to heat and overall quite durable.

I was aiming at this:
NPeQHJ6.jpg

Saw someone using Cast Iron color from Drupli-Color and he got this:
QTFcKgt.jpg

I tried it on a piece I had laying around and got that:
E6d3FWy.jpg


This is way too shinny and sparkly for my taste, I don't know if it has to do with the primer, baking, amounts of coat but I'm not confident spraying this on my shotgun that is now fully sanded and primed.
Any suggestons for a paint with darker gray than what I got?
If not I might simply make it flat black.

Thanks in advance!
Grendeb
 
Last edited:
I would try and find an auto motive paint supply shop local to me, some of them should be able to mix up a spray of paint with any colour you pick from their paint line up. The nice part is it will be a two stage paint with a hardener in it, I’ve used clear coats like this from a brand called 2K. There is a pin on the base of the can which when pulled releases the hardener into the paint, once mixed you have a 12-24 hr window for use.

Auto paint will be available in satin or flat finishes or you can use a flat clear to give it some solvent resistance.
 
I would try and find an auto motive paint supply shop local to me, some of them should be able to mix up a spray of paint with any colour you pick from their paint line up. The nice part is it will be a two stage paint with a hardener in it, I’ve used clear coats like this from a brand called 2K. There is a pin on the base of the can which when pulled releases the hardener into the paint, once mixed you have a 12-24 hr window for use.

Auto paint will be available in satin or flat finishes or you can use a flat clear to give it some solvent resistance.

Nice! I went to see a paint supply before buying the Dupli-Color, they didn't have the right color but I should ask for them to mix it thanks!
 
I would try and find an auto motive paint supply shop local to me, some of them should be able to mix up a spray of paint with any colour you pick from their paint line up. The nice part is it will be a two stage paint with a hardener in it, I’ve used clear coats like this from a brand called 2K. There is a pin on the base of the can which when pulled releases the hardener into the paint, once mixed you have a 12-24 hr window for use.

Auto paint will be available in satin or flat finishes or you can use a flat clear to give it some solvent resistance.

Works great and last a long time. Just do the perp work,...get all the oil off, on the inside and outside. If let on the inside(the oil that is) it will some how crep ,to the outer edges,on the outside.....don’t ask me how I know ��
 
Works great and last a long time. Just do the perp work,...get all the oil off, on the inside and outside. If let on the inside(the oil that is) it will some how crep ,to the outer edges,on the outside.....don’t ask me how I know ��

Like everything paint related, prep is the key to a lasting finish. It doesn’t mater how flawless your final coat is if your layers underneath weren’t prepped properly, it will fail at some point.
 
Like everything paint related, prep is the key to a lasting finish. It doesn’t mater how flawless your final coat is if your layers underneath weren’t prepped properly, it will fail at some point.

Yep, painted base coat, clear coat for the better part of 20 years...eyes got old, hard to see how the metallics were laying ,so no more car or transport paint jobs for me.
 
you had better watch your mil thickness. cerakote only add approximately 1.5 to 2 mill. primer and paint may be to thick to reassemble without damaging the finish. threaded holes may get plugged up.
 
you had better watch your mil thickness. cerakote only add approximately 1.5 to 2 mill. primer and paint may be to thick to reassemble without damaging the finish. threaded holes may get plugged up.

Thanks I thought I'd use dummy screws to fill those holes. For the other parts I'm painting only what is visible i.e. I cleaned the rust and will give a coat of oil and that's it so I hope this won't affect how parts will fit.
Hard to see here but the trigger guard has a guiding line to fit into the receiver (sorry don't know how to call that) and I've taped that to be sure it will fit again.
qZze9hc.jpg
 
I found a VHT caliper paint gloss black at Canadian Tire. It has a 900'F rating and says chemical resistant, but I wouldn't use anything on it. If its to glossy sand with a 2000 plus wet sand paper, to get the shine or semi gloss finish you want, polish and buff or sand. Dries fast but builds quickly.
 
Any paint will become more user friendly if it is baked in an oven @250F for about an hour. Some paint suppliers advise on doing this and give instructions. A large item can be baked in your outdoor BBQ grill. Works for me.
 
Any paint will become more user friendly if it is baked in an oven @250F for about an hour. Some paint suppliers advise on doing this and give instructions. A large item can be baked in your outdoor BBQ grill. Works for me.

Yes I was planning on baking the parts. As far as the oven my company build industrial oven so I'll be able to use them for this application.
 
Back
Top Bottom