Old Remington 870 (1966)

What should I do with it ?

  • Leave it as is ? (it does have a nice patina)

    Votes: 58 61.1%

  • Restore it!

    Votes: 20 21.1%

  • Tactical! (new school plastic)

    Votes: 1 1.1%

  • Old school shorty! (wood furniture short barrel)

    Votes: 16 16.8%
  • Total voters
    95
Canadiankeeper said:
Thanks! Any advice on how to tackle the fore end with all its tiny little grooves ? Any super secret special way or just be patient and work slowly on it.
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A stiff nylon brush will probably get most of it off but you could also make a small tool( with a file or grinder) to carefully scrape it out or even fold over some sandpaper to get in there. Not sure what tools and supplies you have on hand but the scraper could even be made of plastic..... take a look around and see what you have that matches the width of the grooves.

The furniture strippers comes in a gel or liquid form both work well just follow the directions.

There are lot's of youtube videos as well on refinishing stocks
 
Can-down said:
A stiff nylon brush will probably get most of it off but you could also make a small tool( with a file or grinder) to carefully scrape it out or even fold over some sandpaper to get in there. Not sure what tools and supplies you have on hand but the scraper could even be made of plastic..... take a look around and see what you have that matches the width of the grooves.

The furniture strippers comes in a gel or liquid form both work well just follow the directions.

There are lot's of youtube videos as well on refinishing stocks
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Old Remington finishes are rarely stubborn if you're using a good product like Circa 1850. For grooves/checkering..most can be dealt with with a nylon brush. I don't use anything BUT stripper and rags/brushes to remove finishes. The only time I've had to step-up my resolve is when I run into a repair job, and there is residue glue/epoxy. Sanding (for me) comes when shaping a stock, matching a new recoil pad or butt plate...but always with fine paper before the first coat of finishing material.
 
Thanks for the tips gentlemen!

Getting ready for some crow folding!


On a side note also....


Anyone ever concerned about blasting a raven mistaking it for a crow. I know they are bigger, bigger beaks and tail feathers are longer so more wedge shape then as flat as the crow... They are protected and just wondering if I should keep an eye out as an armature to make sure I know the difference well.
 
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.22LRGUY said:
Old Remington finishes are rarely stubborn if you're using a good product like Circa 1850. For grooves/checkering..most can be dealt with with a nylon brush. I don't use anything BUT stripper and rags/brushes to remove finishes. The only time I've had to step-up my resolve is when I run into a repair job, and there is residue glue/epoxy. Sanding (for me) comes when shaping a stock, matching a new recoil pad or butt plate...but always with fine paper before the first coat of finishing material.
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I agree, burlap is a good rag material for finish removal.
 
Canadiankeeper said:
Thanks for the tips gentlemen!

Getting ready for some crow folding!


On a side note also....


Anyone ever concerned about blasting a raven mistaking it for a crow. I know they are bigger, bigger beaks and tail feathers are longer so more wedge shape then as flat as the crow... They are protected and just wondering if I should keep an eye out as an armature to make sure I know the difference well.
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I'd say it is a concern, because ravens are seemingly just as curious about the calls....and in my experience, are every bit AS (maybe MORE) likely to come to decoys. If you saw them side-by-side..there are significant differences, but in flight..I was always told to look at the tails. They appear split in flight with crows, not so with Ravens. First thing I do is to try and quickly gauge the height (helps determine size of what bird you're looking at) then look at the tail. If you've taken more than 2 seconds to figure both out, the crow has usually spotted you and hit the after-burners in the opposite direction. lol Not easy birds to fool, and they have a knack for suddenly materializing when you're taking your gloves off/putting them on. :)
 
.22LRGUY said:
I'd say it is a concern, because ravens are seemingly just as curious about the calls....and in my experience, are every bit AS (maybe MORE) likely to come to decoys. If you saw them side-by-side..there are significant differences, but in flight..I was always told to look at the tails. They appear split in flight with crows, not so with Ravens. First thing I do is to try and quickly gauge the height (helps determine size of what bird you're looking at) then look at the tail. If you've taken more than 2 seconds to figure both out, the crow has usually spotted you and hit the after-burners in the opposite direction. lol Not easy birds to fool, and they have a knack for suddenly materializing when you're taking your gloves off/putting them on. :)
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Hahaha good to know! Tail feathers! Yea ive studied the shape difference. I should know the animals im hunting.

I have really good hunting gloves. I can use them from -25 up to positive 15 and never be uncomfortable. Thin and breathable but very warm. My girl got me them in the states. Under Armour (camo). So I wont ever loose a bird for that reason!
 
It's a whipped old dog, but it will still hunt. I'd refinish the stock and have it polished and hot-blued. It's not a collector so it only has value as a shooter. You won't lose money by having it refinished, but there's a reason you got it damn near free.
 
Mine is about 10 years newer than yours and has been in my family since 1980 (Dad bought it lightly used).
I replaced the wood furniture with modern wood that has a really nice soft recoil pad, the original had gone rock hard. In your case you could easily refinish the existing wood and add a new recoil pad.
I voted for old school shorty, but it's nice to have a variety of different barrels for different jobs.
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^ yes that is very nice! Definitly what I had in mind. There is no "pad" its hard plastic lmfao so a nice soft recoil pad would be nice.

I plan on definitly obtaining multiple barrels as it would be nice to have an old school "home defender" as well as something I can fold birds and drop other critters with.

Everyone in agreement that 2 3/4 #71/2 target shot will fold crows ?
 
7 1/2 is a bit small IMO. I would try to find 5 or 6 shot load in lead. Only time will tell. There are alot of variables. Once you get you barrel/choke decided, try a few different shells. The gun and crows will soon tell you.
 
ianthomson said:
7 1/2 is a bit small IMO. I would try to find 5 or 6 shot load in lead. Only time will tell. There are alot of variables. Once you get you barrel/choke decided, try a few different shells. The gun and crows will soon tell you.
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well as its sits now its a 30" full choke lmao

So thats what I will be using.

I dont have a new barrel for it yet. I have been saving pennies for a custom rifle build. Dont want to dip into that for a shot gun all that much. Might just refinish wood. Eventually will buy another barrel.
 
For those who care. A little update time I think.

She is currently in pieces. Wood is being re done. Dont think Im going to try to re blue anything myself. Tempting but cold blue never looks as good.



 
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Do what you want. that is exactly like my first waterfowling shotgun I bought 20 years ago. I had the barrel opened up to modified and got numerous ducks and my first snow goose with it, then sold it for an Express with a three-inch capability and choke tubes.

Action is slick as snot on a doorknob on those guns, particularly if they've been used.

You can always buy another 870 barrel and cut it to desired length for fun shooting too, that's what I did, only I have yet to shoot mine through the 19-inch barrel.
 
MD said:
Do what you want. that is exactly like my first waterfowling shotgun I bought 20 years ago. I had the barrel opened up to modified and got numerous ducks and my first snow goose with it, then sold it for an Express with a three-inch capability and choke tubes.

Action is slick as snot on a doorknob on those guns, particularly if they've been used.

You can always buy another 870 barrel and cut it to desired length for fun shooting too, that's what I did, only I have yet to shoot mine through the 19-inch barrel.
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Yes, 3" would be nice but this will do for the purpose it serves!

The OG barrel is still in tact. Would never chop it.

Got a nice 18" cyl barrel for it for range fun though.'

Yes the action are silly smooth. It is amazing. Never felt one so smooth. Drop of oil in there also oh boy.
 
I too, picked one up for a song. Same year. A friends Mom had it in her closet from her deceased husband and "Just wanted it gone" It came with the box of shells he bought with it, only a couple missing. I kept it original, but picked up a rifled slug barrel for it off the exchange.
 
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