Old style Browning Auto 5 mis firing

rci2950

rci2950

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Recently acquired a Browning Auto 5 that the original owner claimed had a broken firing pin. I attempted a test firing last night and *Click* but a really sharp click like the hammer bottomed out on something. So i figured he was right and the firing pin was broken. So today i disassembled it and looked inside the hole in the bolt face where the firing pin is and it is in there. So i put my finger over the firing pin hole and pulled the trigger. Nope firing pin is good. My finger got hole punched like the thing that my grandmother use to check her blood sugar with. So I hosed the action out with a good amount of Remington action cleaner and re lubricated with a good amount of aerosol REM oil. Thinking it might have just been crud. So i cut a shell, dumped the shot was and powder, Put it in to try and pop the primer and *click again. Then i notice it looks like the barrel is not back far enough into the receiver. This is the first Auto 5 i have handled. But i have looked at a huge number of pictures. And now rolling through these pictures. It appears my barrel is out way further then a normal A5. So the misfire is likely due to the hammer bottoming out on something before it hits the back of the bolt because the bolt is too far forward when locking up to the barrel. What could be going on? Is it the wrong fore end? AM i missing a spacer? Mag tube not screwed in far enough?
Here are some pics of what i have. For the best of my ability the gun looks to be a 1952 production. So before the heavy and light models. please help.

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Well, for starters, your friction ring should be ahead of the slip ring.
Flat side always toward the big spring.
Here's a manual for you.............................:wave:

http://www.browning.com/content/dam/browning/support/owners-manuals/auto5-light-om-s.pdf
 
The steel ring should always be on the spring. It is turned so the bevel squeezes the brass friction piece for heavy loads and turned so the flat side touches the friction piece for light loads. The angle inside where the ring contacts the barrel always squeezes the friction piece. When tightening the retaining nut on the magazine tube, hold the barrel into the receiver and make sure you tighten the nut all the way. The barrel should be farther into the action on assembly.
 
I think I have figured it out. The fore arm is worn where the barrel ring makes contact with the wood. Because of the way the barrel moves when firing it has worn away the wood causing too much forward movement in the barrel. I recorded a youtube video just now to describe what is happening


 
If you push the barrel into the action where it is supposed to be can you still tighten the barrel cap? I used to push in the barrel against the spring pressure and then tighten the cap.
 
iceman2 said:
If you push the barrel into the action where it is supposed to be can you still tighten the barrel cap? I used to push in the barrel against the spring pressure and then tighten the cap.
Click to expand...

The cap iix all the way down. There is no more threads.
 
Grasping at straws now, could it be the wrong cap? Also has the forearm been repaired? Hard to tell by the photos but end looks uneven.
 
Try pushing the barrel in a ways then tighten the cap (with the washers and bushings as illustrated in the manual, not how it was before)
 
You guys should read post #4 and look at the video.

"I think I have figured it out. The fore arm is worn where the barrel ring makes contact with the wood. Because of the way the barrel moves when firing it has worn away the wood causing too much forward movement in the barrel. I recorded a youtube video just now to describe what is happening"


https://youtu.be/8jISo06jGU4

He has figured it out... he needs a new forend of if possible (doubtful) to repair the broken/worn one.
 
On my gun, the fore end had already been broken a couple of times , when I bought the gun. I ended up making a brass sleeve to line the front end of the forend and to transfer the thrust of the barrel / spring onto the magazine nose cap. It is slightly possible that you could shim the barrel back with a washer that goes around the magazine tube and is concealed inside the forend.
On my gun, even with the coned steel washer in the light load configuration, the gun will not eject the first shell enough to load the second shot. I stumbled across a parts gun and intend to use its spring with one ring removed in the hopes that the gun will handle light factory loads

cheers mooncoon
 
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