Ordering and scoping a Savage rifle -- what to expect for non Savage owners..

I have a 12FVSS in 270wsm on the way, really looking forward to it. I think it is pretty close to the one in the pictures, but with a heavier barrel.
 
burris XTB steel base:
xtbtacticalbases.jpg


leupold QRW rings:
493217_d.jpg

(ordered low - hope they fit)

Burris Fullfield II 3-9x40mm Ballistic Plex:
Burris-3-9x40.jpg


i dont need quick-release rings but the only other option was Burris Zee or signature Zee rings which im not totally happy with - i wanted a better set of rings. a set like the Leupold QRW but with a permanent 2-screw mount would have been ideal, but i can live with the quick release lever i guess. itll make transporting the gun a lot easier since i can remove the scope.

i do know from the burris mount guide that for the Burris 3-9x40 scope on the round receiver savages with the steel Burris weaver base they indicate Low rings, so if the Leupold rings are slightly lower than the Burris i can always swap with the set of Low Zee rings that i do have.

That looks like a real nice system there. Good shooting when you get it together!:D
 
scope mounted

scope1os3.jpg

scope2ov5.jpg


Apparently its impossible to get ahold of the Burris XTB steel bases, LeBaron had them on backorder indefinitely.
So i bought some Warne scope bases instead. they look like this:
warnebaseaa8.jpg


the reason i wanted the Burris XTBs is because they are more of a Picatinny style and have two mounting positions. with the Warne or Leupold bases, there is only a single slot in the mount (although you can reverse the mount to get some more adjustment, its kindof silly that they didnt just machine in a second slot).

These are around $14 in the states, and $30+ in Canada. so with exhange rate factored in they cost well over double here. hurray for Canadian bulls**t pricing, but whatever - i needed a mount now, not in 6 weeks.
the ideal front mount, if i could design one, would be longer - it would extend back about another 3/8" to fit flush with the front of the ejection port, and have one more slot machined into it to allow the scope to be mounted further back. as it is mounted now, the scope could only move back another 1/16" before the front mount touched the objective bell. Luckily it was enough, but just barely - on 9x power i have just enough eye relief. stay away from the Leupold 2-piece mounts of any type as people are complaining that they actually overhang into the ejection port and look like sh*t - and may interfere with feeding/ejection.
i skimmed the bottom of the bases with a thin even coat of heavy gun grease before mounting them onto the rifle (then wiped off what squished out), to seal out any moisture that may get between the base and rifle and cause rust.

The rings are the Leupold QRW 1" Low rings. reasonably well made, although on closer examination the Torx screws werent even centered and seemed very low quality (the heads were not on at 90 degrees so when you were screwing them in the heads wobbled, as if you were cross-threading them), not exactly what i would expect from a $70 set of rings.
here is a closeup of what i mean:
posscrewsjw3.jpg


I would expect this from a set of $10 weaver rings, but the Leupold QRW series is supposed to be of much higher quality than this. whats the point of good rings when the screws that hold your scope are of such sh*t quality?
the rings are also very heavy - i would not recommend them for a lightweight design: together with the bases these probably weighed over a pound, which is nuts considering i am trying to make this a lightweight all-weather rifle. i would recommend looking into aluminum bases and aluminum rings for a lightweight hunting setup - make sure you get quality aluminum rings with at least 2-3 screws holding your scope and tighten them well, but dont strip the threads.

scope3ok0.jpg

another small issue is that the rear ocular of the Burris Fullfield II 3-9x40mm is huge, so you dont get very much bolt clearance. you must work the bolt with your palm or grasp the very tip, if you try to grasp it further down or have fat fingers youre going to have a very sore (or broken) thumb since the Savage bolt is ####-on-opening and really whacks the bolt handle up.

Overall, however, I am pleased with the mount style that i chose. im just outlining the issues that you will run into, although its rare that youll run into a scope mount setup that is absolutely 'perfect' - there are always compromises.
With this setup i can remove the scope in seconds and swap it out with something like a Burris Fastfire reflex sight for a closer range work or for general toting around in the bush.
 
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Is there only one action length for all calibers? If yes that mag sure looks short for .30-06 length bullets. Probably a different mag for the .30-06?
 
Savage offers 2 lengths of action...the shorter is for .223 and longer for such as 308 cal.

.30-06 you mean.

yeah theres a short and long action in the savage, its not like a tikka which shares one action length for both SA and LA. mine is a short action .308.

the holes for the scope mount are awful far apart though (at the extreme front and back of the action, leaving quite a gap between the bases and ejection port). i dont have a long action savage side-by-side to compare but it seems to me like the scope mounts will end up just as far apart on either, regardless of short or long action, just based on where the holes are drilled.

i would definitely recommend getting a long-tube scope for the long action, however.
 
Cool! That .308 must be awful light in the hands with a short action!

I know a fellow that wanted to sell his 7 mm Rem mag in a Savage similar to yours. When I was looking at it for my son, he said "I dunno if this is the best choice for your 14 year old. This gun is very light and kicks with authority. Maybe not the best choice for a beginner..."

I suppose in .308 it should be fine? My son isn't exactly on the small side, but I don't want him developing a flinch from a hard kicking gun either.
 
it is very light. for an even lighter gun, id recommend getting aluminum picatinny mounts (perhaps the inexpensive weaver brand) and a pair of good quality aluminum scope mounts.
you could even take it a step further and lop 3.5" off the end of the barrel (with a recessed crown) to both stiffen it and lighten it. 18.5" is plenty of length for a .308. when hunting season is over and my gunsmith doesnt have 4 month lead times i intend to have this done on mine. thats not to say that 22" is too long a barrel on a sporter, but i really like shorter carbine style guns.

Remington managed recoil loads are the same price as regular hunting ammo now and are supposed to perform out to 200 yards, and with the same POI at 100 yards, but with 50% of the recoil of a full-power load.
.308 isnt that hard-recoiling to begin with, and people say that the .30-06 managed recoil load (.30-06 kicks more than a .308) feels like a .30-30. i dont see a younger shooter having any problems with .30-30-level recoil.

id definitely recommend a .308. you can kill anything in north america with it from groundhogs to moose and there is plenty of room to 'grow into' it, and later on a ton of surplus and cheap ammo he can have access to. ammo is also available anywhere, and will be for a long time.
 
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thought id update this thread since i found a very cheap and effective solution to one of my problems with this gun -- the bolt throw/bolt handle.
if my thumb slipped a little higher on the bolt handle stem it would painfully slam it against the ocular of the scope. the factory bolt handle with its crappy knurling is also pretty unsightly.

i ordered a replacement bolt handle from Brownells:
106194 BOLT HANDLE, OVERSIZED, RH
for $23. they only charged me a couple bucks shipping, customs didnt bother with it, and i got it in just over a week. so all told, around a $25 upgrade.
i deliberately ordered the blued since i thought it would look better than the stainless, and i was right - IMO it looks great.

more importantly, now all bolt throw problems are solved! my fingers dont get pinched anymore, and the bolt handle feels a hell of a lot beefier. working the bolt - especially with your palm - feels a *lot* more positive now since the larger/longer bolt handle gives significantly more leverage. definitely a small mod i would recommend to all Savage/Stevens owners who own a rifle with the smaller bolt handle type.

savagetacbolthu3.jpg


it only takes a 1/4" allen key and 2 minutes to change the bolt handle on a Savage. put the bolt on the floor with the bolt handle and allen key/socket in a V shape and push down on both and itll pop open easily. if its in there really tight (like mine was) it helps to slip the ring end of a large spanner over the bolt handle to give you more leverage. you wont need to do this with the new, larger bolt handle.
 
no problem at all. you have an inch and a quarter to fit your finger in under the lowest part of the scope, inch and a half under the highest... of course this is with the two-piece mounts.
if you want to mount something like a short tube red-dot sight, or a holosight then stick with a 1-piece mount.

i have to take this opportunity to rave more about the bolt handle :)
for $25 every savage owner (who doesnt already - some of their Varmint models have it) should have one. im sure if you end up not liking it you can sell it in 5 minutes on the EE for what it cost you.
 
Looks good!

I have a model 11 in 300wsm, but replaced the stock with a Wildcat Thumbhole. I do like your new bolt, and may put one on mine.
Downwind commented on being a switch barrel, which it is, and easy to do. BUT...so far in trying to find one for mine in Canada, chambered, threaded..ready to go, will cost about the same as buying a new rifle complete, $500?
I think you've got a nice set-up there, and it is Savage, it WILL be accurate.
Mark
 
Bump...

Have you shot it yet? I'm thinking hard on a Savage American Classic, this excellent string is captivating...
 
I had the .300 win mag version of the 116fcss, and I was shooting .87 inch 3 shot groups with reloads. (200 gr accubonds over 70.5 gr of reloader 19) I love the accuracy of the gun, but the only gripe I had was the distance between the scope bases (its really far apart). I mounted a 3200 Bushnell Elite 3-9x40 and I had NO eye relief (even with 1 extension ring) And I had to grind out a v-shaped portion on that extension ring so the bell housing could get clearance. It was a nightmare. I tried to switch scopes to the Burris fullfield II 3-9x but it was the same,
So what I am saying is that you should REALLY MAKE SURE THE SCOPE YOU ARE PLANNING TO MOUNT ON A LONG ACTION 116 has enough scope tube to give you a bit of choice in how much eye relief you have. When I mounted the 3200, I touched my eyebrow several times with the scope, Even the guys at the gunstore I bought it at had a hard time finding rings and bases that would accomodate a normal sized scope.
Other than that , it shot like a house on fire. All my friends gave up trying to beat me at 100 yards.
 
Great review.

Little bit off-topic question. Has anyone here shot the Euro Classic using irons only.....appreciate input on the quality of the factory installed rear sight assembly. Haven't had an opportunity to inspect one in person yet. Wondering if the quality could be comparable to the irons on a Tikka, which are excellent IMHO.
 
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