Outers Gun Blue...Anyone ever used it?

If its a cold blue, its fairly simple..
Clean the parts to be blued of all oil and what not, apply bluing solution with a cotton ball lightly, allow chemical reaction to occur, repeat then set part aside for 20 minutes or so and wash it with cold water.

repeat as nessessary, then oil with your fav gun oil like breakfree.

I used to buy the most expensive cold blues......Then I tried the cheap canadian tire stuff and got the same "if not better" results.

Its all about the preparation, clean it good before hand and wash it good afterwards.
 
Likw Musketfire says, it's all about preparation. The only twist I can add is if you have access to an air compressor, get (or borrow) a fluid sprayer head (works on suction principle), wear new rubber gloves and spray everything with gun wash (cheap type of laquer thinner), acetone, or white gas.... blow dry and apply bluing. Doing that I've never had oil spots show up after the bluing was applied.
 
The cold blue will only color clean steel. It will not affect the original bluing, so you don't need to remove it.

Outer's Blue? Yes I've used it. It can make a nice looking job if the metal is prepped properly, but the finish will disappear over time. Maybe a fairly LONG time if well maintained.

I would use a cream blue (Oxpho-Blue).
 
:D
The "cheapskate" Outers Blue does a decent job.

I thoroughly wash the gun part to be blued in a solution of dish detergent to remove ALL surface oils (including that from fingers) before applying the blue & thus get a consistently amorphous, homogeneous bluing rather than the undesirable streaked &/or patchy effect.

After a couple of applications I apply a light rust preventative oil coating for long term storage......usually Rem-Oil or a similar spray on product.
 
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You can remove surface rust with 000 or 0000 steel wool. If the rust is heavy and starting to pit, then I would use 400 grit sand paper followed by 600 and finished with 0000 steel wool or 1200 grit sand paper prior to rebluing.
 
If you access to a compressor and a small sandblaster, go that route. It evens out small imperfections and leaves a satin finish... Use the finest sand you can get, clean up with acetone, gun wash or naptha, blow dry and blue.... we're talking just minutes of work. The finished product isn't as good as a hot blue job... but it's fast, looks OK and is cheap... I know, I know... my farmer roots are showing through :)
 
eiderduckhunter said:
what would be the best method to remove the old bluing ? sand paper ? steel wool ?
Click to expand...

:D
Steel wool.

Go from course to start & then use the finest stuff to smooth out & polish the metal.

Don't forget the detergent solution wash to remove ALL surface oils before applying the bluing solution.

Clinging surface oil is your enemy when trying for a smooth, homogeneous blue finish.
 
To simply get rid of blue without doing any polishing (I do that after the blue is removed), I've used Naval Jelly. However, I recently tried EvapoRust, which is available at Canadian Tire for $10/liter --- it's hands down a great bluing remover. A little bit slower because it requires an overnight soak, but it doesn't smell as acrid as Naval Jelly and what you're left with is completely rust free and blue free metal.
 
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