What kinda groups are you getting now? What type of rifle?
IMO if you're getting MOA or less at 100m or < 2" at 200m I say your shooting tacks for a hunting rifle.
I would bed the rifle and free float first if it hasn't been done, probably the best thing you could do to improve accuracy.
great advice. Big game animals are not small targets to hit.i I am shooting a custom barrelled 270. I am getting 3 quarter inch groups at one hundred yards.
Are you capable of shooting 3/4MOA in the field under hunting conditions? If not, spend your time practicing instead of worrying about shaving 1/8" off your groups. Your rifle is already more than capable of shooting big game to 800yds or more, it needs nothing else.
OTOH, if you just want to tinker for the hell of it, knock yourself out. You won't gain any material improvement from what you have now, but it is a good excuse to spend more time shooting and tinkering with your gun and reloading gear and that is never a bad thing.
Personally, my scoped hunting rifles are all around 1-1.25MOA and the iron sighted ones are ~2MOA or better and I find that more than adequate for my uses to date. I am the weak link in the system and try to spend my time improving on that.
Mark

great advice. Big game animals are not small targets to hit.
Are you capable of shooting 3/4MOA in the field under hunting conditions? If not, spend your time practicing instead of worrying about shaving 1/8" off your groups. Your rifle is already more than capable of shooting big game to 800yds or more, it needs nothing else.
OTOH, if you just want to tinker for the hell of it, knock yourself out. You won't gain any material improvement from what you have now, but it is a good excuse to spend more time shooting and tinkering with your gun and reloading gear and that is never a bad thing.
Personally, my scoped hunting rifles are all around 1-1.25MOA and the iron sighted ones are ~2MOA or better and I find that more than adequate for my uses to date. I am the weak link in the system and try to spend my time improving on that.
Mark
I like the idea of having the chamber neck so tight that it requires neck turning just to chamber the ammo, I'm less impressed when I try it for other chambers, and i certainly wouldn't bother for hunting rounds. Who can hold less then 1/2MOA at 100, offhand, shivering in -30 degrees, when hunting?
Sorry, but to hold like that, you need a bench with no movement, front rest, bags at the rear, prolly windflags, etc. Anyone that thinks diff. must do their hunting on the computer.
Sounds as though you need to load up about 20 rounds of ammo. The first ten, you should pamper with every accuracy trick you can think of. The remaining ten, simply assemble using good handloading techniques, with the same components and loads as you match ammo.
Now go shooting. Put up a silhouette target, with no distinct aiming point, that approximates the shape and size of a big game animal at any range you like, provided you know how to hold or are already sighted in for that range. Shoot from a supported field position. Shoot as carefully as you can with both batches of ammo, quickly enough that light and wind conditions don't change on you mid group.
If you're a good shot and conditions are favorable, chances are you'll shoot a 2 MOA group out to 500 yards, beyond which it might start to open up on you a bit. When it comes to putting a bullet on a live target, all those little things we do to gain a quarter minute here and an eighth of a minute there you'll see don't make much difference at normal hunting ranges with a standard sporting rifle.
Its fun to play around with loads and case prepping techniques to see how much accuracy we can squeeze out of our pet thunder stick, but don't be fooled into thinking its something you have to do in order to succeed in the field. Game shooting under normal hunting conditions is not techniqually difficut, although we sometimes over think the problem.




























