Outside or inside case neck turning??

jimmyjazz

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Hello all, looking to try outside or inside case neck turning.
Have been reloading for years just have never tried this step and think it's time to see if it helps in accuracy.

Any recomendations, I've done some research on the interweb but so many different makes and models.
Any preferances between the hand held vs the trimmer attachment?
I've got 2 RCBS trimmers and can convert one?

And if anyone has one for sale even better, let me know.

JJ
 
Out side! Always turn the outside , if you ream the inside, run it threw the sizing die again your brass neck will still show variances in thickness.

Inside is only good for wildcats /neck downs when a lot of material needs to be removed so you don't end up with a huge ridge on the shoulder by taking it all off with an outside neck turner
 
Unless you are shooting a precision/custom chamber it is unlikely you will see any benefits to neck turning. If you do want to experiment, I suggest just removing enough brass to even up the neck thickness, meaning you may be removing very little to no brass on some areas of the neck.
 
Unless you are shooting a precision/custom chamber it is unlikely you will see any benefits to neck turning. If you do want to experiment, I suggest just removing enough brass to even up the neck thickness, meaning you may be removing very little to no brass on some areas of the neck.

I wont do it for my hunting rifles but I started TR shooting last year and have a custom 308, I figure i've spent so much on rifle and everything else might as well go the one more step if it will help at all.


Out side! Always turn the outside , if you ream the inside, run it threw the sizing die again your brass neck will still show variances in thickness.

Inside is only good for wildcats /neck downs when a lot of material needs to be removed so you don't end up with a huge ridge on the shoulder by taking it all off with an outside neck turner

Thank you ultimate_monkey
 
I wont do it for my hunting rifles but I started TR shooting last year and have a custom 308, I figure i've spent so much on rifle and everything else might as well go the one more step if it will help at all.

I would still offer my advice as a starting point. Please post any results.

You can get the neck turner with auto feed for a trim pro if that's what you have. I had one many years ago, didn't really like it, but now I use a Forrester.
 
Outside. I never gave neck turning more than a second thought until I picked up my 'antique' varmint rifle.

WinchesterHighWall219DW-1.jpg


It's an old custom Winchester High Wall, in 219 Donaldson Wasp with an;)era appropriate scope, A 10X J.UNERTL. To make 219DW brass I neck down 30-30 brass, trim to length and 'touch up' the outside of the neck if required. The unit I have is made by RCBS who was also more than helpful with info on this specific brass forming topic, required forming dies and procedure etc.

219DWrecenttests.jpg


219DWprevioustests.jpg


Results are decent and the 'old girl' seems to like 50gr Hornady V-MAX:D.
 
Waste of time. You won't gain a point or V Bull by neck turning brass when you are shooting off your elbows with a jacket and sling. The .308 match chamber that is in your rifle will likely shoot any brand of handload brass or any issued .308/7.62 match ammo. I don't know of any TR shooters that neck turn or inside ream their cases.
 
It is worth while even for hunting rifles especially when there is .004 runout on the necks.

With a TR rifle that has been chambered to close tollerances it would eventually become mandatory.

My first 40XB had to have the brass turned as the expander would not enter the mouth of the case.
 
Maynard: what about in F/TR?

Unless the chamber is cut with a tight neck that requies the brass to be turned, you are better off buying quality brass like Lapua, Norma etc. If you want to gain points or V Bulls, your time is better spent dry firing or shooting .22 indoors than turning brass. I am not sure what the F/TR shooters are doing with their brass.
 
The purpose of outside neck turning is to unify neck thickness, but if the gun is incapable of delivering the sort of results that such a step will deliver, well it is likely not necessary.

Match chambers strive for minimal clearance... 0.002-0.003" max. There are "no-turn" chambers that are designed to work with brass that is a known entity (such as 6BR Lapua brass and the old .272" no-turn chamber). Many shooters beleive that thinner-walled necks and minimal neck clearance deliver superior results, but from the ground up, the chambers are cut so small as to not accept off-the-shelf ammo or brass, Turning is essential.

If you are using a SAAMI spec chamber, chances are, turning necks will result in excessive clearance.

INSIDE neck turning is most often used to remove "doughnuts" that occur as a result of using necked-up brass where shoulder material forms part of the new neck (ie: using the excellent Lapua 6.5-284 brass necked up to use in a .284 winchester). These doughnuts become restrictive, and while it is possible to push them to the outside using an expander mandrel and outside neck turning, the tendency is for them to re-occur. Inside neck turning is the way to deal with them.

I obsess about brass prep on anything used for target shooting, and I lightly turn all necks to help unify them. For hunting and varmint ammo, never.
 
I have a 260 Remington with a .292" neck. [standard is .297"-.300"]
This rifle will not accept a factory case with the bullet seated.

This simply means I must neck turn it to shoot it.
I turn the outside to achieve .002" clearance with the bullet seated.

It is unnecessary to turn the necks of brass being used in a "standard" throat.
Other than making sure your brass is of even neck wall thickness,
it is a waste of time, for the most part.

Regards, Eagleye
 
Some great advice ... thanks all.
I think I will pass on neck turning and put my efforts into something else.
 
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