over powder felt wad for round ball

wr.sainsbury: I use the same method, when skipping a lubed wad in the loading chain. For card wads, I simply punch them out of discarded primer cartons. Very easy to get consistent loading depth.
 
I tried using the Ox Yoke felt wads for a bit and they seemed to have improved groups mildly. I found hornets nest to work well and is cheaper.
 
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In the sidehammer Hawken rifle I found that, as charges increased in weight, groups started to open up a little. Adding a Wonderwad brought group size down somewhat.

As with Brian James, in the C&B revolvers its corn meal on top of the light "target level" powder charges in order to bring the ball up to the top of the chamber. It's a bit shocking in my .36 1858 New Model Navy that I dump in a dozen grains of FFFg Goex, then fill the chamber up flush with corn meal. The ball seats on top of that and is very nearly flush with the mouth of the chamber. One doesn't think there will be that much compressibility available in the corn meal / black powder stack in the chamber but there certainly is. The mouth of the chamber is then covered with a smear of my own brew of grease formulated using beeswax and my "proprietary" recipe. I haven't shot this at 50m yet but suspect that by bumping the charge up to 15 or 16 grains it will perform well.
 
In the sidehammer Hawken rifle I found that, as charges increased in weight, groups started to open up a little. Adding a Wonderwad brought group size down somewhat.

As with Brian James, in the C&B revolvers its corn meal on top of the light "target level" powder charges in order to bring the ball up to the top of the chamber. It's a bit shocking in my .36 1858 New Model Navy that I dump in a dozen grains of FFFg Goex, then fill the chamber up flush with corn meal. The ball seats on top of that and is very nearly flush with the mouth of the chamber. One doesn't think there will be that much compressibility available in the corn meal / black powder stack in the chamber but there certainly is. The mouth of the chamber is then covered with a smear of my own brew of grease formulated using beeswax and my "proprietary" recipe. I haven't shot this at 50m yet but suspect that by bumping the charge up to 15 or 16 grains it will perform well.

If you're dumping grease on top of the projectile you're doing it wrong. Nobody can find references of anyone doing that when those revolvers were current tech. All you do is turn the gun into a sticky mess and increase your chance of making a powder trail and having a chainfire. My 1850 , with black or pyro has a felt wad impregnated with beeswax/tallow based natural lube over the charge. With either round ball or lube grooved conical you can shoot all day long and the barrel wipes clean afterwards. And no sticky awful mess like my friends that grease the chamber mouths....... Most of your grease in the adjacent non firing cylinders gets blown all over anyhow, it's no use for anything.. other than making a mess.
 
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