over pressure?

I will second the advice about the chronograph. As per John Barsness articles, that is the only dependable technique that he found that a home hand loader can use to compare his results to published information. He had compared various "home testing methods" against the pressure test equipment at Western Powders lab in Montana. He had instances where case head expansion and bolt lift seemed fine - but strain gauge said otherwise. There are no "magic" barrels - muzzle velocity is a pretty close result of pressure, not much else (with appropriate powder choice and allowing for barrel length). More velocity than the "book" means you have more pressure than they did; conversely, less velocity means you have less pressure.
 
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Just a thought but maybe your dies are out of spec, or calipers need to be calibrated, how old are they? You said you inherited them. Have you tried making some dummy rounds and chambering them? Inspect for scratches dings, compare bolt lift from a fired round.

Peening on the bolt bothers me a lot. Sounds like it is not locking up correctly and there is actually movement in the bolt, causing it to slam back upon firing. Headspace issue? Can you get some go, no go gauges? Rent them or pay a smith.
 
ok so the action only has Remington 700 and the serial number on it no caliber, the barrel from what i can tell has nothing on it. so custom rifle??

so what I'm getting from all this when it comes to recipes is unless you have all the exact same material/components as the people doing the original tests don't try and use it?

ill see if i can get ahold of a buddy with a chrono to go and test out the loads to see what they are doing speed wise. but I'm also going to have a different barrel length(26ish")so with the fired brass not allowing the a bullet to pass through the neck is this something that would be cause by a "hot" load or can it only be caused by the internals of the chamber?

more and more it seems like this thing need to have a date with a gunsmith... any suggestions on a good smith in the Calgary area that isn't going to gouge me but knows what they are about?
 
Just a thought but maybe your dies are out of spec, or calipers need to be calibrated, how old are they? You said you inherited them. Have you tried making some dummy rounds and chambering them? Inspect for scratches dings, compare bolt lift from a fired round.

Peening on the bolt bothers me a lot. Sounds like it is not locking up correctly and there is actually movement in the bolt, causing it to slam back upon firing. Headspace issue? Can you get some go, no go gauges? Rent them or pay a smith.

the dies could be out but the calipers are brand new, I never felt the need for a dummy round because the rounds have always chambered smoothly but at this point in time i cant see it hurting so ill make one up and see what comes of it
 
So when choosing a recipe I should choose my case then base everything else off of that? I'm seeing some drastically different numbers for load using the same components but different manufactures cases...
Mixing cases with different volumes, will result in different pressures, so you won't get consistent velocities.
 
ok so the action only has Remington 700 and the serial number on it no caliber, the barrel from what i can tell has nothing on it. so custom rifle??

so what I'm getting from all this when it comes to recipes is unless you have all the exact same material/components as the people doing the original tests don't try and use it?

ill see if i can get ahold of a buddy with a chrono to go and test out the loads to see what they are doing speed wise. but I'm also going to have a different barrel length(26ish")so with the fired brass not allowing the a bullet to pass through the neck is this something that would be cause by a "hot" load or can it only be caused by the internals of the chamber?

more and more it seems like this thing need to have a date with a gunsmith... any suggestions on a good smith in the Calgary area that isn't going to gouge me but knows what they are about?

Your bolded question above - a chamber that is cut tighter than normal (a neck that is smaller diameter than SAAMI calls for) may not allow the neck of your brass to relax enough to freely let go of your bullet. Or your chamber may not have the free bore that the SAAMI drawing is calling for. I have reloaded thousands of rounds - I do not check every one, but every fired round that I check, a bullet will drop cleanly through the neck into the case - not pushed through, it drops through. When your cartridge goes all the way up into your full length die, the neck is squished smaller than it needs to be. As you withdraw the case out of the die, it is pulled over the expander ball on the primer stem. That expander ball should be "opening up" your neck to about .002" or so smaller than the diameter of your bullet - in your case, your resized case should be about .282" inside diameter, all the way through, before you seat a bullet. When you seat your bullet, that will force the case neck open just a bit more - your bullets should be .284" diameter - that .002" or so tension is about the correct amount of "hold" that you want. So, if there were any abnormalities in your case neck thickness, they would show up on the outside diameter of the neck - right from the mouth of the case, all the way back to where the shoulder meets the neck. The SAAMI drawings for the 7mm STW gives that cartridge dimension as .3170" all the way from shoulder to mouth on the cartridge. If any part of your loaded cartridge's neck is larger than that, the neck needs to be turned, to be made thinner. At the same time, the SAAMI drawing calls for a diameter of .3200" at the junction of shoulder and neck and .3190" at mouth of the case for the rifle's chamber. If the chamber is cut to a smaller size, then the "standard" brass can not expand enough to allow a bullet to pass through after it is fired. That is why you will want to have a cast done of your chamber - you want your loaded brass necks about .002" smaller than whatever your chamber is, in the neck area.

As far as using information - they gave a recipe and tested it using their components in their rifle while measuring the pressure that they were getting. Especially that you now have reason to doubt that is a standard factory barrel and chamber (no marks on it), you will have to approach it as a "wildcatter" would - invent your own data, using information from other similar cartridges. But start by knowing how your chamber is different (or not) than a factory standard one.

Another thought occurred - SAAMI also specifies a maximum brass length - in this case 2.850" - .020" If your brass is longer than 2.850", the leading end of it might be squishing in on the bullet, making it harder to let go.

go here: https://saami.org/wp-content/upload...99.4-CFR-Approved-2015-12-14-Posting-Copy.pdf Then go to Table of Contents and click on 7mm Shooting Times Westerner - top half of page is drawing for cartridge, with dimensions; bottom half of page is drawing for chamber, with dimensions.
 
Your bolded question above - a chamber that is cut tighter than normal (a neck that is smaller diameter than SAAMI calls for) may not allow the neck of your brass to relax enough to freely let go of your bullet. Or your chamber may not have the free bore that the SAAMI drawing is calling for. I have reloaded thousands of rounds - I do not check every one, but every fired round that I check, a bullet will drop cleanly through the neck into the case - not pushed through, it drops through. When your cartridge goes all the way up into your full length die, the neck is squished smaller than it needs to be. As you withdraw the case out of the die, it is pulled over the expander ball on the primer stem. That expander ball should be "opening up" your neck to about .002" or so smaller than the diameter of your bullet - in your case, your resized case should be about .282" inside diameter, all the way through, before you seat a bullet. When you seat your bullet, that will force the case neck open just a bit more - your bullets should be .284" diameter - that .002" or so tension is about the correct amount of "hold" that you want. So, if there were any abnormalities in your case neck thickness, they would show up on the outside diameter of the neck - right from the mouth of the case, all the way back to where the shoulder meets the neck. The SAAMI drawings for the 7mm STW gives that cartridge dimension as .3170" all the way from shoulder to mouth on the cartridge. If any part of your loaded cartridge's neck is larger than that, the neck needs to be turned, to be made thinner. At the same time, the SAAMI drawing calls for a diameter of .3200" at the junction of shoulder and neck and .3190" at mouth of the case for the rifle's chamber. If the chamber is cut to a smaller size, then the "standard" brass can not expand enough to allow a bullet to pass through after it is fired. That is why you will want to have a cast done of your chamber - you want your loaded brass necks about .002" smaller than whatever your chamber is, in the neck area.

As far as using information - they gave a recipe and tested it using their components in their rifle while measuring the pressure that they were getting. Especially that you now have reason to doubt that is a standard factory barrel and chamber (no marks on it), you will have to approach it as a "wildcatter" would - invent your own data, using information from other similar cartridges. But start by knowing how your chamber is different (or not) than a factory standard one.

Another thought occurred - SAAMI also specifies a maximum brass length - in this case 2.850" - .020" If your brass is longer than 2.850", the leading end of it might be squishing in on the bullet, making it harder to let go.

go here: https://saami.org/wp-content/upload...99.4-CFR-Approved-2015-12-14-Posting-Copy.pdf Then go to Table of Contents and click on 7mm Shooting Times Westerner - top half of page is drawing for cartridge, with dimensions; bottom half of page is drawing for chamber, with dimensions.

So step one will be getting a cast made of the chamber to make sure I have the correct dimensions for case oal ect, from there I need a crono and start into load development starting with lighter loads and working my way up?
 
So step one will be getting a cast made of the chamber to make sure I have the correct dimensions for case oal ect, from there I need a crono and start into load development starting with lighter loads and working my way up?

I am sure that is exactly what I would be doing, if it was my rifle.

Chamber casts often done with an alloy called Cerrosafe - it melts about 180 or 190 degrees, so less than boiling water - I melt mine in a tinned salmon can in double boiler on a hot plate - I bent a pour spout along one edge - pick it out of the hot water with pliers. Remove barrelled action from stock, hold it vertical in padded jaws in a vice. Run a cleaning patch in about an inch or so past the end of the chamber - you want to see the free-bore area and the start of the rifling - the patch will hold back that liquid Cerrosafe for the second it needs to set. Heat up the barrel chamber area with a hair dryer / hot air gun - get it hot enough so very hot to touch - that will still be well under 200 degrees. Pour in Cerrosafe. Give it 10 minutes to set up - it will shrink slightly as it goes solid. Use cleaning rod down muzzle and push out patch and the casting - out onto a towel or something soft so do not ding up the cast. Exactly 60 minutes after you poured it, it will have swollen back up to exact dimension which is when you want to be be doing the measuring on it. As time goes on it will continue to swell - data that comes with it tells you how much too big it becomes after how much time. The stuff can be re-melted and used over and over - I am sure the stuff I have has done 10 casts or more - just put the cast back in the metal container and re-melt it with the rest next time.

I would think on your first cast, you are mostly interested from case shoulder forward to the start of the rifling - chamber neck diameter, chamber neck length, free-bore length, etc. - to compare to that SAAMI drawing to know what is the same and what is different, if anything.
 
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Also, I re-read your earlier posts - perhaps some context - a high pressure load can "freeze" a bolt - just can not lift the bolt handle at all. Rifle hasn't actually blown up, but pressure was way past even "proofing" level pressures. Some have resorted to using 2x4 on bolt handle to "beat it open". My neighbour tried and promptly popped off the bolt handle on his Remington 788 with his very first "hand load" - a 22-250. So he had a "frozen shut" bolt and a separate bolt handle to take in to gunsmith to "fix". I took my Model 70 Winchester in 308 past the load manual "Maximum" to see how much forgiveness there was in the data - only one or two increments higher and I was using noticeable more effort to get the bolt open - so my rifle and their data seemed to agree pretty close what "maximum" was. Had read another John Barsness article saying that finely made and finished custom rifle may not have increase in bolt lift effort until well up into the 70,000 psi - smooth chambers, precise fitment of bolt lugs to receiver seats, etc. But that is still 7,000 psi or more past what SAAMI considers maximum for that particular cartridge.
 
Also, I re-read your earlier posts - perhaps some context - a high pressure load can "freeze" a bolt - just can not lift the bolt handle at all. Rifle hasn't actually blown up, but pressure was way past even "proofing" level pressures. Some have resorted to using 2x4 on bolt handle to "beat it open". My neighbour tried and promptly popped off the bolt handle on his Remington 788 with his very first "hand load" - a 22-250. So he had a "frozen shut" bolt and a separate bolt handle to take in to gunsmith to "fix". I took my Model 70 Winchester in 308 past the load manual "Maximum" to see how much forgiveness there was in the data - only one or two increments higher and I was using noticeable more effort to get the bolt open - so my rifle and their data seemed to agree pretty close what "maximum" was. Had read another John Barsness article saying that finely made and finished custom rifle may not have increase in bolt lift effort until well up into the 70,000 psi - smooth chambers, precise fitment of bolt lugs to receiver seats, etc. But that is still 7,000 psi or more past what SAAMI considers maximum for that particular cartridge.

Ot be fair the only time it has required a but of mechanical aid(light tap with a deadblow) to open was then i was chambering spent brass. When i was at the randge I had to give it a smack with the palm of my want to get it up that last 5% or so.

You make it sound like doing a chamber cast is very easy. Is it actually? I'm happy to tinker with most things but I am a novice when it comes to somthing like this and would rather not blow my gun up down the line cause I messed it up...lol
 
Chamber cast - did my first one using nothing more than the instructions that came from Brownells - they are available to down load on line. If you mess up, actually very easy to just do it again. Do not overfill into the bolt recesses - almost impossible to remove the cast without damaging it. Challenge is to get a "good" cast - if the stuff cools too fast, because rifle chamber too cool - get pores and gaps - a good cast looks quite smooth and well filled out. Nice clean chamber first really helps, I found!!! But yes, it is quite an easy thing to produce the casting - but then you need a micrometer to take good measurements to accomplish anything with that cast - it is changing shape as time goes by - need to get your measurements done about 60 minutes after pouring, not the next day... And need to understand you are looking at a "reverse" image - in is out, etc.

You have a PM - contact me and maybe I can help you with this stuff.
 
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