Over-scoping?

I see a lot of hunting rifles being over scoped... nice compact light rifles with a monster of a variable high powered scope making them much heavier and way ugly... most guys are looking at 300 years or less and are scoped for 1000 yards plus...

so true, but in the meantime what was good 30 or 40 years may have changed. sniper used 3.75 x or even 4x and a 10x was the top ... now anybody can buy bigger but that doesnt mean they shoot better.
 
I used to be the guy who didn’t need top of line scopes I always argued I have so many rifle I can’t afford no stinking 3000 dollar scope on all these so I always kept it to the midrange and one day I got a killer deal on a gen 2 rzr I should never have done it whether I was shooting it at 6x or 24x it was incredible and was a real treat to look through I have to admit it is way to heavy to be anything other the. A bench scope but my point being like it has been said many time the level of quality in the high end scope can’t be touched with a $1000 dollar scope so in short I wish I never did it cuz now I am back to my midrange scopes and always unhappy with what I am seeing
 
If you can`t see it properly you sure as heck can`t shoot it :50cal:

I am not so sure about that. Certainly have to be able to see well enough to align the sights. I bought a .22 "Free Rifle" which has double apertures sights. Its only purpose, ever, was to plunk one hole on top of the other at 50 meters. I want to try that. I see various World and Olympic scores, using that kind of rifle - 400 points for each of top 5 or 8 shooters. So each hit the 10 ring 40 times in a row. I bought some 50 meter official targets. That 10 ring is about 0.4" diameter. In World competitions, they count the "X" hits to break a tie - X-ring on these targets is less than 0.2" - so smaller than a .22 bullet. So far, as I have learned, they can not see either the 10 ring or the X-ring at 50 meters - they are aligning their sights with the 4.4" black round bull - and notes I have from that level of shooters are constant that you need to see a "ring of white" around the bull to know if you are aligned.

I had a Weaver K3 scope with fine cross hairs and a 3 MOA dot in the centre. I made 4" diameter white targets with a black ring around outside. So I would see a "ring of white" around the dot - was actually surprised how easy to see slightest mis-alignment. The rifle was quite accurate - a 243 Win. I shot many 3 round and 5 round groups in the 5/8" to 3/4" size, at 100 yards off a shooting bench with sand bags, with that 3 power scope and that white bullseye.
 
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I am not so sure about that. Certainly have to be able to see well enough to align the sights. I bought a .22 "Free Rifle" which has double apertures sights. Its only purpose, ever, was to plunk one hole on top of the other at 50 meters. I want to try that. I see various World and Olympic scores, using that kind of rifle - 400 points for each of top 5 or 8 shooters. So each hit the 10 ring 40 times in a row. I bought some 50 meter official targets. That 10 ring is about 0.4" diameter. In World competitions, they count the "X" hits to break a tie - X-ring on these targets is less than 0.2" - so smaller than a .22 bullet. So far, as I have learned, they can not see either the 10 ring or the X-ring at 50 meters - they are aligning their sights with the 4.4" black round bull - and notes I have from that level of shooters are constant that you need to see a "ring of white" around the bull to know if you are aligned.

I had a Weaver K3 scope with fine cross hairs and a 3 MOA dot in the centre. I made 4" diameter white targets with a black ring around outside. So I would see a "ring of white" around the dot - was actually surprised how easy to see slightest mis-alignment. The rifle was quite accurate - a 243 Win. I shot many 3 round and 5 round groups in the 5/8" to 3/4" size, at 100 yards off a shooting bench with sand bags, with that 3 power scope and that white bullseye.

Good stuff. We like to shoot small stuff at extended ranges, and small groups at 100 / 200 yards, can`t do that without some nice "clear" serious magnification. Like I said before, it all comes down to what is it that you want to do?
 
I am not so sure about that. Certainly have to be able to see well enough to align the sights. I bought a .22 "Free Rifle" which has double apertures sights. Its only purpose, ever, was to plunk one hole on top of the other at 50 meters. I want to try that. I see various World and Olympic scores, using that kind of rifle - 400 points for each of top 5 or 8 shooters. So each hit the 10 ring 40 times in a row. I bought some 50 meter official targets. That 10 ring is about 0.4" diameter. In World competitions, they count the "X" hits to break a tie - X-ring on these targets is less than 0.2" - so smaller than a .22 bullet. So far, as I have learned, they can not see either the 10 ring or the X-ring at 50 meters - they are aligning their sights with the 4.4" black round bull - and notes I have from that level of shooters are constant that you need to see a "ring of white" around the bull to know if you are aligned.

I had a Weaver K3 scope with fine cross hairs and a 3 MOA dot in the centre. I made 4" diameter white targets with a black ring around outside. So I would see a "ring of white" around the dot - was actually surprised how easy to see slightest mis-alignment. The rifle was quite accurate - a 243 Win. I shot many 3 round and 5 round groups in the 5/8" to 3/4" size, at 100 yards off a shooting bench with sand bags, with that 3 power scope and that white bullseye.

that is so true and the training put in make the results. the ring of white is part of the equation for those shooting conditions. as well and when i competed with air rifles at 10m you had to avoid it lol ... let s talk about biathlon well the target is bigger but pure white and add on that the snow plus the heart beat ...and still no scope lol
 
that is so true and the training put in make the results. the ring of white is part of the equation for those shooting conditions. as well and when i competed with air rifles at 10m you had to avoid it lol ... let s talk about biathlon well the target is bigger but pure white and add on that the snow plus the heart beat ...and still no scope lol

The target is a black hole on white, 115mm diameter for standing, 45mm in the centre of that for prone and all the other things to contend with including reading wind, snow interference, breathing whilst heart-rate is high and of course the fact that your front sight is also a black ring you are trying to centre on a black dot 50m away :p
 
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For attending shooting competitions, on Phobos, without spending money on gas?
 
Scoped?

I shoot Rimfire .22lr & .17 HMR , mostly Bench Rest Target
and some small Varmint.
I like to spot my own shots therefore I like a scope
that can supply. (I'm Lazy)
Those .17 holes are small.

Short range my Bushnell 2.5-16x40 is good for 50m.

For Long range & Extra long range 150m to 300m
I like Leupold 3xi LRP 8.5-25x50 & Bushnell XRS 4.5-30X50
 

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Another vote here for quality of glass over quantity of Xs.
I have an Aimpoint 1X red dot on a bush rifle and can shoot pop cans at 100 yards no problem, something moose-sized is in trouble even at 200+.
Now I'm waiting on a (used) Nightforce NXS 3.5-15x50 for my 28 Nosler which will hopefully allow me to make close shots if necessary but also be able to shoot deer at 400.
On the other hand I looked through a buddy's 6-24 power (somewhat lower quality) FFP scope the other day and for a general purpose hunting rifle... not interested
 
I have used mostly 3-9x40, 4-12x40, 6-24x40, and 4.5-27x50 I think ideal might be a quality 3-18x50 or 4-20x50 FFP illuminated, mil reticle. My 4.5-27 on steel or paper is usually at 20x, hunting would be lower.
 
Not much of a target shooter.

From a hunting perspective, clarity and a small low number on variables. I'm not wanting say a 6-24, not because there isnt a.purpose for 24x, but because even at 6x it's too much magnification close range. Go for a big top end if.you dont mind walking with the extra weight, and it's low magnification is say 4x or less.
 
Me I'm just amazed at the quality of 1300 dollars scopes in the 25 power it blows me away,when you shot with old Tasco and iron sites for decades and buy a pst gen 2 or the athlon ares it is just so danm good,as well as the nikon black fx1000 16x.we are spoiled with great glass,I have never owned a nf or smit and bender but if the 1300 dollar scope is that good I could only imagine.i could never afford one and thats OK because today's glass is just lites out.i don't use any of those on my moose gun,that I have redfield 3x9 that isn't going any were.
 
I have a 10-40 X 50mm on my 22-250.

At 40x zoom you can pick between the top or bottom of a squirrels ear at 100 yards...........
 
I have used mostly 3-9x40, 4-12x40, 6-24x40, and 4.5-27x50 I think ideal might be a quality 3-18x50 or 4-20x50 FFP illuminated, mil reticle. My 4.5-27 on steel or paper is usually at 20x, hunting would be lower.

Sounds like a balanced approach.

I often wonder how much 56mm objectives affect the interface between shooter and the rifle. Do these larger scopes have to be mounted so high that you cannot get a good cheekweld? ie. now need a stock with a higher comb or an add on/adjustable riser… or is it a non issue?
 
I dont think you cant have to much magnification, you can always lowered it down to purpose.

My favorite rifle for marmott hunting is a Marlin bolt action 22 WMR mounted with a Sightron lll 10 X50 X60 with very fine simple crosshair. This arrangement permit to shoot for the eye and hit the eye and this up to 125 yards. It's a lazer. JP. YMMV.
 
Sounds like a balanced approach.

I often wonder how much 56mm objectives affect the interface between shooter and the rifle. Do these larger scopes have to be mounted so high that you cannot get a good cheekweld? ie. now need a stock with a higher comb or an add on/adjustable riser… or is it a non issue?

Yes cheek weld can be a problem. Other things can pop up to, for my 4.5-27x50, I had to take the heat gun to my atv gun boot, had to remove my vertical grip from the chassis as well and put on the angled one. I have the biggest gun boot I could find anywhere. A x56 scope would never fit.
 
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