Overcoming Recoil & Muzzle Flip

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I had my 1911 commander in .45 out for the first time this weekend and to be perfectly honest I couldn't hit ####e. I fired 25 rounds at 25 metres and 4 found the paper. I also have a Buckmark .22 which I've never had a problem shooting so I'm guessing it's the recoil and muzzle flip that's screwing me up. Of the 4 that hit 3 were in the upper right of the target which says to me that I'm pulling in that direction. Any suggestions on how I can improve or how you overcame this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Other then that it was a good day out! Anyone who doesn't have a Norc Commander should get one. Lot's of fun. The gun was reasonably accurate, except when I was firing it, and it's just plain fun.
 
Recoil and muzzle flip will happen, you cannot overcome it, but you can learn how to reduce the effects of it. First I would work on your grip, a good video to watch is Todd Jarretts;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysa50-plo48

Have someone watch your grip and see where you may be off.

Also, work out in increments of 10yds, 15yds, 20yds, and see how your point of aim varies at these distances. Jumping right to 25 yds/metres is difficult to diagnose.

Good luck and keep trying!
 
Like Busta said.

No point in shooting at 25 yards until you figure out whats up or get the hang of shooting your pistol (or find out if the sights are off).

Get in close, move back as required.
 
Yup...what Busta said. Collin at the Poco range was nice enough to give me a few tips on improving my grip, and it has made a huge difference in my shooting. Also watch how your trigger finger sits on the trigger and how it pulls on it...doing this poorly can cause you to pull your shots to the right for a righty.
 
Recoil and muzzle flip will happen, you cannot overcome it, but you can learn how to reduce the effects of it. First I would work on your grip, a good video to watch is Todd Jarretts;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysa50-plo48

Have someone watch your grip and see where you may be off.

Also, work out in increments of 10yds, 15yds, 20yds, and see how your point of aim varies at these distances. Jumping right to 25 yds/metres is difficult to diagnose.

Good luck and keep trying!

Fantastic link...:evil:

Learnt all the things I am doing wrong....:runaway:
 
There is nothing that can be done with a 1911 to reduce muzzle flip. The gun will do, what it wants to do when fired.

Just make sure your hand is as high on the grip as you can get it.
Breath properly....point and fire. I've learned not to try to "control" or "anticipate" muzzel flip, or you'll unknowing move the POI off the target without realizing it when you mash the trigger.
Point and fire. The round will already be on it's way, by the time you try to "compensate" or "control" the recoil. Let it just go without worrying about it, and your accuracy will benefit.

Yes, start at a closer range until you get to "know the gun" well.

BTW....that's why I always try to buy pistols with a High hand grip....and low bore axis, like my Steyr M40A-1 (not a "pretty pistol), but GREAT to shoot accurately with lower muzzle flip:
http://www.steyrarms.com/index.php?id=4
 
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You're flinching. Overcoming flinch, or anticipating the shot is fundemental to becoming a good marksman.

You brain and body instictively want to recoil away from anything that makes a loud noise and tries to hurt you, much like you instinctively raise you hands to protect youself if someone tries to hit you. You have to condition yourself to accept that the gun will make and noise and rock in your hand or on your shoulder. No need to be scared of it, or help it along by anticipating it. Just accept it.

Start with lots of dryfire practice at a small target in the basement. Focus on the sight picture (front sight should be in focus, followed by the target then the rear sight in perfect alignment). Breath in and out slowly while letting the sight picture move up and down over the target as you breath. As you breath out start squeezing the trigger, at the end of your breath steady the sight and continue squeezing until the hammer drops. If you start shaking a little because you've held your breath too long abort the shot and start over. Don't snatch or grab the trigger. Slow steady sqeeze on the trigger with the pad of your finger between the tip and the first knuckle joint, straight backward until the hammer drops. It should almost surprise you because you've been focusing on the breathing and sight picture so much. You should be able to recall the sight picture the moment the hammer dropped, this is called 'calling your shot'. This is basically the process the bullseye shooters use and the foundation to proper shooting skills. It improves your technique and gets your brain accustomed to the process without the distraction of the noise and recoil of live fire. Practice this often until you've got it and then use it for brushing up your skill once you're good at it.

When you hit the range use the same process. Practice with the .22lr first to warm up. Before shooting the .45 do some dryfiring to calm you down. No need to dump the mag bang bang bang. Take it one shot at a time slowly. Raise the gun, breath, sight picture, exhale, squeeze, bang, lower the gun, take a short mental break and review in your head what you did, raise the gun and repeat. If you start flinching stop and take a break, do a little dryfiring to get back on track, no need to reinforce a bad habit by plowing through.

The guys you see blazing away bang bang bang and hitting small have all started with the basics, and continue to practice them. Take your time, dryfire lots, slow and steady at the begining and in no time you'll be able to do it faster and faster. The bang bang bang the pro's do is basically the above procedure on fast forward to the point it appears natural talent. Natural talent isn't really natural but rather lots of practice to the point that your muscle memory and subconsious take over. You've effectively "brainwashed" youself with good shooting habits and technique.

Good luck and practice lots!
 
IM_Lugger,
In reloading, if you mean a lighter grain bullet as a "load on the light side", that will require faster, more powerful powder. (more recoil)

I presume you mean a heavier grain bullet, with slower powder for less recoil, Right?
 
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As Gunslinger said practice dry fire first. At the range have a couple of dummy rounds loaded in the mag with the live rounds. Have someone else load the mag so you don't know what the order will be.
When you shoot a live round you can't see how bad your flinch is. With a dummy round in the chamber (when the hammer hits the non-live round) you will see how badly you pull the gun off target if you have not trained your body properly.

Be extra careful mixing live and dummy rounds. Have the dummy rounds clearly marked. Some people drill holes through the side of the case. Or get some "snap caps".

Also if you can start with some lighter loaded rounds. Starting with factory ammo is not a good idea.
 
Ahh the dreaded flinch.

I have that problem, dry firing and repeation is the best cure, though having good ear protection helps.

If i go for long periods without shooting, then I will go through my routine all over again.

Dry firing is about the best advise you can get.

The grip extremely important, and trigger control. Like the guys say, put the target at 7 yds and start from there correcting your faults.

Dry fire and do it till its automatic, after awhile you will know were you are hitting even without firing :)

TG
 
IM_Lugger,
In reloading, if you mean a lighter grain bullet as a "load on the light side", that will require faster, more powerful powder. (more recoil)

I presume you mean a heavier grain bullet, with slower powder for less recoil, Right?

Usually means, don't put as much powder in the case so it will do less fps. For every action is an equal and opposite reaction.
 
Ripstop,
But using the same grained bullet with less powder(under loading) than recommended can cause More recoil too, right?

I'd suggest moving up to a slightly higher grain bullet and using the recommended types and amounts of slower powder.

just my 2 cents
 
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