Overwhelmed :(

rubberdown

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I want to start reloading, I got a bunch of reloading literature, a new Lee Pro 1000 set up for 9mm luger, and I thought I was ready to rock.

I purchased 750 lead bullets that are 125 gr. lead round nose, and then I also ordered 1000 of the 124 gr. copper plated berry's bullets to get me started.

Now, looking at a bunch of charts, it seems non of them have a common powder brand for both of my bullet choices. And being completely 100% new to this, I dont want to start guessing if something is okay when it may not be.

I hear that the Lee machines dont like Unique for powder (it was recommended by a friend) so I am happy to get whatever powder is needed and works best with a Lee progressive machine, but seriously, will I need to get 2 different brands of powder to load these 2 different bullets or does someone have a starting point I can use with similar bullets and 1 brand of powder?


Whats gonna screw me up even more is when I get another machine and want to start re-loading 45ACP, I really hope I wont need to keep 4 different kinds of powder just to load 4 different bullets :confused:

I was really hoping this would be easy.....
 
Winchester 231/ Hogdon hp38 ( exact same powder. Hogdon makes it for Winchester), or hogdon toghtgroup work great.

I have used both but like tight group.

I will list some data later today.


All those powders can be used for most pistol calibers and bullet types
 
you've been MISINFORMED; it IS EASY- it's just you haven't persued it deep enough yet- in pistol you load for BULLET WEIGHT - in other words, the loading you've got, only being a grain apart, will work with both- as far as your friend's advice goes, it's worth what you paid for it- get a GOOD reloading manual, and FOLLOW THAT RECIPE- NOT WHAT SOMEONE SUGGESTED-
however, since you've picked, in my opinion, the dirtiest powder on the planet, i'll give you the speer rendition
you treat plated the same as lead- jacketed allows you to step it up a bit, as does a good hardcast bullet
4.1 of unique for 911 fps
4.5 grains for 1007 fps
you can either look up the rest of the recipes on line or get a GOOD reloading BOOK
the same deal goes for most pistol bullets- you just vary the powder charge according to the manual
now when you get into magnums, you can still use the same powder, but it's not really slow enough to take advantage of the heavier bullets-
ie i use 231 for everything and i shoot 9mm. 45, 44 mag- i should use 110 or 296 for the 44, but i keep my loads LIGHT like 44 specials
as far as lee not liking unique, it's b/s- unique feeds through the funnels just like everything else- it just tends to stick to the sides a bit, so you end up with a dirty funnel more often
now, if you've bothered to ACTUALLY READ all of this, i'm going to save you a LOT OF TROUBLE
DO NOT PRIME ON THE 1000- it's got one of the worst priming mechanisms ever designed- you have to have at least 10 in the trough or it WON'T FEED- if it does feed, it'll flip primers over, sideways, and every other position known to man instead of the right one- resize, pull the casing, prime off the machine with a hand primer( again, lee makes one of the best) and put the primed case back into the slot for powder charging- you can learn to prime on the machine AFTER you've learned everyting else- i've been doing this 40+ years and i still get the occasional misfeed
 
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Thanks guys, and YES, I did read all of it ;)

I have no intention of being a wealth of knowledge on EVERYTHING RELOADING, but I do want to know how to re-load my 9mm and then after I get it figured out, buy a second machine for the 45ACP and be done with it ;)
 
Thanks guys, and YES, I did read all of it ;)

I have no intention of being a wealth of knowledge on EVERYTHING RELOADING, but I do want to know how to re-load my 9mm and then after I get it figured out, buy a second machine for the 45ACP and be done with it ;)

Poor guy, you don't even see it coming. You will eventually be assimilated by the reloading continuum. Resistance is futile. :D
 
PATIENTCE is KEY with reloading- if something won't work right, DON'T FORCE IT, seek advise esp here- now your 9 ( and it doesn't matter which) might have feeding problems with reloads, ( they all do) and sometimes it's a matter of bullet design, or overall length or any of a dozen varibles - that's why you use reloads for RECREATIONAL shooting- ie punching paper- the 45 can have a myriand of problems unique to that as well= the point is to HAVE FUN, and cut corners economically while doing it
 
Poor guy, you don't even see it coming. You will eventually be assimilated by the reloading continuum. Resistance is futile. :D


Ya, I know, I know, I got into ATV's in 2002 because it seemed like a fun family hobby, now ATV's are a full time second job for me, and a full time job for the wife and i have one of my own that has 24 grand into it LOL.
I will be assimilated, slowly but surely :eek:

PATIENTCE is KEY with reloading- if something won't work right, DON'T FORCE IT, seek advise esp here- now your 9 ( and it doesn't matter which) might have feeding problems with reloads, ( they all do) and sometimes it's a matter of bullet design, or overall length or any of a dozen varibles - that's why you use reloads for RECREATIONAL shooting- ie punching paper- the 45 can have a myriand of problems unique to that as well= the point is to HAVE FUN, and cut corners economically while doing it


Oh, its all FUN, and last thing I wanna do is blow up a gun or get hurt by NOT doing things right.
So far I have been running mostly Wolf ammo, lead RN in both my 9mm M&P and same brand and style in my Remington 1911, the Smith is pretty good, I dont remember a single mishap yet, the 1911 seems to have the occasional issue with the lead rounds though.
 
If asked for a universal powder for handguns I would say Win 231. It makes a good load for all calibers.

I think IMR 7625 is even better, but loading data is harder to find, so not good for a newbie.
 
I would also only do up a batch of 10-30 at a time, till you find a recipe that you gun likes. I had to increase my powder charge in the 9mm twice until I found something the glock liked. otherwise it would not cycle.
 
I would also only do up a batch of 10-30 at a time, till you find a recipe that you gun likes. I had to increase my powder charge in the 9mm twice until I found something the glock liked. otherwise it would not cycle.

That was the plan, several people have suggested the same thing, do a small batch and try them in both of my 9mm guns and make changes if, or as needed until I find something that works and cycles great

If asked for a universal powder for handguns I would say Win 231. It makes a good load for all calibers.


i'm thinking about using the WIN 231 as it was recommended as a good all around powder today by the guy that sells the reloading stuff in my area.
 
Don't trust your memory on your reloads either.
Get some stickie pads and right your info down, powder and amount,
bullet weight and brand. I usually put the manufacter's number down too.
Type and make of primers.
And I date the reloads too.
Don't forget to look into your charged brass and see if they are too full
or none or little powder in there.
Have fun with it too.
Cheers.
 
rubberdown, I didn't want a bunch of different powders either, so I decided on Varget for my rifles (.303 and .308) and W231 for my pistols (.38 S&W and 9mm).
My Shadow load is 4.3gr W231, Berry's 124gr RN, OAL is 1.087. Hang in there, it'll all come together for you.
 
A few things from my own experience come to mind reading this thread....

A log book is a necessity. I use one, even though I have an excellent memory, which sometimes has been shown to be too short.... ;-})

If you want to resize/deprime brass first, and prime it off the Lee1000, you can unscrew the sizing die, making absolutely, positively sure there are no primers in the tray/trough on the press. That way you can still use the case feeder....
The only difficulties I've had with the Lee Pro 1000 have been with the priming portion.

I often make up test batches of ammo (5 to 25 rounds) at the same time. To keep them straight, I mark the primers with a Sharpie marker, with a different colour for each powder charge, recording details about each in a log book, and on a slip of paper with the ammo. That way even if you ammo box opens up, and the rounds spill out, you know which ones are which.

Stan
 
or you can do like i do- i've got one DEDICATED press for 9mm, i use 1 powder charge, and stick to one bullet weight- mine is kind of a unique situation as there's a converted auto in the mix and you have to throw a certain amount of recoil or the bolt won't go back far enough to engage the sear- it will, however, eject properly, and strip a new round from the magazine- relax, i know what i'm doing- right now that gun is a safe queen, and i know where that power level is
 
I purchased 750 lead bullets that are 125 gr. lead round nose, and then I also ordered 1000 of the 124 gr. copper plated berry's bullets to get me started.

Now, looking at a bunch of charts, it seems non of them have a common powder brand for both of my bullet choices...

A 125gr LRN and a 124gr plated is essentially the same bullet. Any powder that works for one would work for the other. You should have at least a dozen powders to choose from.
 
I know you said you had invested in a Lee set-up but you might want to consider the Dillon square deal presses--I have 2 and leave one set up for 38 special and one set up for .45 acp. If you keep an eye out you can usually find used ones for a decent price and with the Dillon warranty--never any problem with parts. I do keep a couple of extra toolheads set up for 9mm and 44 spl which are easily changed out when I need to run off a batch.
 
rubberdown, I didn't want a bunch of different powders either, so I decided on Varget for my rifles (.303 and .308) and W231 for my pistols (.38 S&W and 9mm).
My Shadow load is 4.3gr W231, Berry's 124gr RN, OAL is 1.087. Hang in there, it'll all come together for you.

Okay, Win 231 it is then, I'll use your data for my 9mm since I cant find anything with a 125 LRN and it should be okay with both the LRN and the 124 Gr. plated RN.

I can also use it for the 45ACP since that one was found on the winchester reloading data page.

Can I assume the 230 GR LRN and the 230 Gr Plated RN would be close enough to start with the same recipe?
 
There are lots of powders that will work on everything you mentioned - you need to find some sources for data than what you are using. Unique is good in 9mm and 45acp and it's the most versatile handgun powder i know. I've been using Unique in a Lee powder measure on a Lee turret press for 30 years and am quite happy with the results in 9mm and 45acp and several other cartridges.

The best way to learn is to try it for yourself if you can - there is a lot of disinformation floating around on the internet and hard for a new reloader to recognise the BS from the good stuff without some basis of knowledge to start with. By the sounds of it you need to spend a lot more time with your nose in a book before you actually start reloading.

If you have the new LEE PRO Auto Disk powder measure then definitely try it with Unique - i think you will be surprised. I just upgraded to the PRO and it measures very consistantly using IMR800X and Unique. If your kit didn't come with the PRO Auto Disk then it is worth the $20 or so to upgrade.
 
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First, welcome to the dark side.

Second, not sure why you would want to get a second machine for a second calibre. The beauty of reloading is that once you get the expensive machine, you can then reload for other rounds by buying only the cheap(er) dies and shell holders.

Third, without looking through my books, I'm pretty sure you can find a propellent that will work for both, but again, why are you worried about it? You've just dropped $4-500 on gear; treat yourself to a second tin of powder for $30. (Don't forget to get a different size of primer, too - 9mm takes small pistol and .45 large pistol).
 
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