P14 & M1917 Comparison

Well I took the old 1917 out to the gravel pit just now. I can hit a beer bottle at 100 yards every time as long as the wind stays quite. Not scientific, but good enough for me. I had the Finnish M39 out as well, she could do the same. It probably helps that both rifles have absolutely mint bores.
 
davemccarthy707 said:
Well I took the old 1917 out to the gravel pit just now. I can hit a beer bottle at 100 yards every time as long as the wind stays quite. Not scientific, but good enough for me. I had the Finnish M39 out as well, she could do the same. It probably helps that both rifles have absolutely mint bores.
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These "old" shooters are still very capable !...:cool:
 
David K said:
... The stocks seem to interchange, HOWEVER, the Receiver tang on the P14 seems a little short in a P17 Stock. And of course, the Volley sights, and provision for them is absent with the P17 stock. ( Disregarding stock material ) ..... This is based soley on the one P14 I've got, and it's in a P17 Stock. ...... David K
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That is great to know.
 
Had a sporterized 14 given to me the other day. Ears already ground off, so I am lookin for proper size bases. One sitting higher than the other.
Anyone know if and what Weaver sizes they are?
 
From memory I seem to recall that Parker Hale did two different size bases for the sporterized P-14. Jason at Gunco in Ottawa can modify existing bases to fit for a really reasonable price.
Denis
 
Does anyone know, were all P14 and M1917 stocks made of walnut? Though one day I'd like to restore my P14 to original wood, for now I'm refinishing the sporterized stock. I can't get over how nice the wood was underneath the nasty dark finish that was on the gun previously. In fact, I think I'm going to leave it natural wood, with stain only on the checkerboards, then finish with TruOil.

Here's a couple of images of my P14 stock. It's been stripped, very lightly sanded and the checkboard areas were stained with a dark walnut. I think the stock itself looks great natural walnut, and I'm really tempted to leave it unstained and just finish with oil. What do you think?

Here's the P14 in its old finish:

rifle5-1.jpg



Here's the stock as it is now:

p14002-0.jpg


p14001-0.jpg
 
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Nice. Good time to freshen up the checkering if you have a tool for that. The plug in the butt marking disc hole is probably in with hide glue, if you could get that out and turn it so it lines up with the grain I would.
 
RRCo. said:
The plug in the butt marking disc hole is probably in with hide glue, if you could get that out and turn it so it lines up with the grain I would.
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Thanks. That would definately improve the eye appeal a bit. Stands out addly with the grain running crooked. Any suggestion for weakening the glue without damaging the wood?
 
Dakk said:
Thanks. That would definately improve the eye appeal a bit. Stands out addly with the grain running crooked. Any suggestion for weakening the glue without damaging the wood?
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Hide glue softens with heat. Steam would be out since it would swell the plug and make it tighter. Maybe see what you can do with a heat gun, although you'll probably have to damage the plug to get it out. If you can get it free, a few whacks on the same side of the butt with a rubber mallet might get it to pop out.

I forget the size of the disc hole, but if you can't get a plug cutter the same size to make yourself a new plug, it may be better to leave well enough alone.

Or dig the plug out and put in a brass disc with your initials or your SIN number or whatever.
 
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