P14 restore

W

Winchester30-30

Regular
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Location
Fraserwood, MB
Hey guys, so i want to restore my p14 but the stock has a few cracks in it, i want to be able to shoot this gun again, but i want to keep it in its glory, looking rough any ideas?

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The rear hand guard is missing its corners, making the insert metal very loose,

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front hand guard has been repaired once but has lost the inserts in it and is cracked right down the center

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This is the crack im most concerned about, its right throughthe one layer, whats the best way to fix this? carpenters glue?

the metal is all mostly good, missing a few screws and stuff for the middle band, the rear piece that hold the rear hand guard have been brazed, but other then that its all nice, any ideas?
 
Personally, I think the stock is a reason to be worried.

You'll first need to clean, clean and clean it again. You want nothing but pure, clean, dry WOOD in that crack, and nothing else, not the slightest hint of oil. This will be an interesting task.

Second, I would only trust what I've had best results with for it; West Epoxy. And then I'd think about where to put reinforcing dowels and / or screws...

So not a simple task, but maybe it would hold afterwards. Maybe...
 
I may be wrong but I`m thinking a person could gently tap a small wedge into the crack and open it a little more without causing it to spread. Then pour or use a small piece of wood to push/spread epoxy into the crack, remove the wedge and clamp it together untill the epoxy sets up. Strips of rubber could be used to clamp it, just stretch it as much as possible as you wrap it around the stock
 
louthepou said:
Personally, I think the stock is a reason to be worried.

You'll first need to clean, clean and clean it again. You want nothing but pure, clean, dry WOOD in that crack, and nothing else, not the slightest hint of oil. This will be an interesting task.

Second, I would only trust what I've had best results with for it; West Epoxy. And then I'd think about where to put reinforcing dowels and / or screws...

So not a simple task, but maybe it would hold afterwards. Maybe...
Click to expand...
thats what worries me, i dont like that crack and if i start shooting it..... i dont think it will be good, but i still dont know what to do with the handguarsd
 
Heat and solvents will help draw out the oils. Ditto on the wedge and thin glue technique. If you are feeling ambitious, drill a small diameter hole through the best wood on either side of the cracks. Screw in a piece of threaded rod or a very long thread wood screw. Trim off the exposed ends, and dress or conceal accordingly. There is a US arsenal repair similar to this that uses brass coily spiral rods. I don't how you grip them or get them, so RONA is your closer friend.
 
i would find another stock and hand gard,but thats just me it can be glued as Lou said clean wood and the right glue should get it done but these old stocks a full of oil
 
You can get both NOS walnut handguards from Gunparts Corp. in the US. They ship to Canada and have a $200.00 US limit before shipping charges are applied.

ww w.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/USMilitary-33541/Rifles-42386/Enfield1917-40098/PartsList-36103.htm?results=All

Remove the space in the address and you can see a complete parts list as well. They have a bunch of other parts to help you out as well.

Ian
 
That crack looks pretty grim. I also see a crack in front of the trigger cutout in front of the guard screw bushing. Is there a crack to the rear of the bushing as well.

The main crack on the left side needs to be thoroughly de-oiled and cleaned to bare wood. You can keep flushing it with any of methyl hydrate, acetone, brake cleaner or laquer thinner to do this. After that I`d try to open the crack up a bit without breaking off any wood slivers. Once the crack is open and clean I`d use Brownells acraglas to glue and fill it. A heat gun would help the acraglas to flow a bit better. Once the acraglas is in place the stock needs to be clamped until dry. If the thickness of wood permits it, you could also run in a headless threaded brass stock repair pin from top and bottom to reinforce the repair. These are available from Brownells. The idea is to drill a hole for the pin, then coat it with acraglas or epoxy and run it into the hole with a slow speed drill. When it is seated unchuck the pin from the drill and let it all dry. When dry cut it off as flush as possible to the wood with a Dremel disc then dress it down flush to the wood with a file.

Depending on how deep the secondary crack in front of the stock bushing is, you could route it out a bit, de-oil and fill with acraglas. If there is a crack in the stock to the rear of the stock bushing, you could open it up a bit and glue in a thin wood biscuit with acraglas and reinforce the area with a brass stock repair pin to stop the crack. Cracks in this area are caused by the upper tang of the action bearing hard on the wood and acting like a recoil lug. There needs to be some clearance between the rear of the upper tang and the wood to prevent this. To get some clearance here, shim the face of the recoil lug in the stock to move the action forward so the upper action tang is out of contact with the wood.
 
Folks, supplies for parts for some rifles have now almost dried up. P14/M17 stocks are a perfect example of this. Fixing is now the option vs replacing.
 
You will need a very good grade of 2-part epoxy to get enough strength. My choice is Acra-Glas Gel. I use the Gel because it has a 20-minut tim before it sets up hard as a rock, nd that's lots of time if you plan your work.

For cleaning the INSIDES of cracks, I use brake-drum cleaner: rips the oil right out of the wood, floats it off, you wipe it off and it outgases and is dry again in minutes. Half a dozen treatments can be done in a day. I used this on an Arisaka which was so soaked with old motor oil that the stuff actually pooled on my floor when I parked the rifle too close to the heat outlet. That rifle now looks fine and took a very nice BLO finish...... but I had to steam out more than 100 dents before I could do it!

The Acra-Glas Gel is strong enough to hold the stock. It WILL break again if you mistreat it enough, but it will not break THERE.

As to that old repair in the Handguard, just replace the missing strips and stain them; they add character, let the old girl show that she has "been there, done that".

As to the CRACK in the Handguard, clean it out with brake-drum cleaner and glue with the Acra-Glas. You can use a C-clamp if you are very careful, just use it to hold the crack open while you are cleaning and in the FIRST phase of the gluing. Work the Acra-Glas INTO the crack with thumb pressure, then remove the C-clamp and reposition it to hold the Handguard down FLAT against your bench surface. You now can clean off excess Acra-Glas with a shop towel.

Hope this helps.
 
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First step to my restoration, stripped all the varnish and everything off, brake clean was my saviour, im heading to florida on the 27th and im gone for 2.5 weeks, so when i get back ill look into doing more to it
 
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