P14 What To Build

I have built a few rifles using these actions and they work really well IF you don't have sharp shoulders to feed from the mag. In general, they hang upon the top of the chamber and will not rise up under the extrator. Not recommended and certainly not needed.

The extractor can be modified so that single push feed will work. That is how my LR target rifles are set up.

If P14, the standard 300WM, 7RM, 338WM are excellent rds. A 6.5WM would be unique as would a rimmed cartridge like the 45-70.

I am trying to get some time to finish off a 450Alaskan. Needs lot of stock TLC. Metal work is very well done and the barrel is a gorgeous McLennan.

Due to shoulder injury, this one will be sold after I get a chance to play for a bit.

The best aftermarket trigger I have used is the Timney Sportsman. These can be lightened to well under 1lb. I have also used the #### on opening kit from Numrich. These work well but the cocking piece needs to be modified to work with the Timney sear.

my LR 300RUM retains the orig #### on closing with a Timney trigger. Works just fine - accurate out to a mile.

The Dayton system seems to be a drop in so would be easier to fit.

Jerry

Prosper, that is a gorgeous wood stock!!!!!
 
prosper said:
Here's my P-14 based 338, with a gaillard tube:

p141.jpg
Click to expand...
That is beautiful!
 
mysticplayer said:
I have built a few rifles using these actions and they work really well IF you don't have sharp shoulders to feed from the mag. In general, they hang upon the top of the chamber and will not rise up under the extrator. Not recommended and certainly not needed.

The extractor can be modified so that single push feed will work. That is how my LR target rifles are set up.

If P14, the standard 300WM, 7RM, 338WM are excellent rds. A 6.5WM would be unique as would a rimmed cartridge like the 45-70.

I am trying to get some time to finish off a 450Alaskan. Needs lot of stock TLC. Metal work is very well done and the barrel is a gorgeous McLennan.

Due to shoulder injury, this one will be sold after I get a chance to play for a bit.

The best aftermarket trigger I have used is the Timney Sportsman. These can be lightened to well under 1lb. I have also used the #### on opening kit from Numrich. These work well but the cocking piece needs to be modified to work with the Timney sear.

my LR 300RUM retains the orig #### on closing with a Timney trigger. Works just fine - accurate out to a mile.

The Dayton system seems to be a drop in so would be easier to fit.

Jerry

Prosper, that is a gorgeous wood stock!!!!!
Click to expand...

Jerry, great advice. When you convert to single push feed, do you fabricate a block or plate for the magwell opening?
 
mysticplayer said:
I have built a few rifles using these actions and they work really well IF you don't have sharp shoulders to feed from the mag....
Click to expand...

x2 on comments on Prosper's stock- absolutely gorgeous!

Jerry, in your experience is it possible to get RN bullets to feed from the mag. in a P-14? I just got my BSA/P14 back from Ellwood Epps after being rechambered to .303 Epps. They did some recontouring of the feed ramp and it will feed spitzers of course, such as Steve R's 200 gn. and even Frontiers but the Remington 180 gn RN I like to use for practice are literally a "no-go".

Sorry to hijack this thread a bit. PM me if you prefer (or josquin@shaw.ca)

:) Stuart
 
Has anyone tried one of these 'tru-feed' kits. If they are as they seem, I think I'll buy one and give it a go. P17/14's are known to have feeding issues with different styles of bullet shapes. I don't want to hijack this thread, but I'll prove how far Bubba will go to 'try' and fix this. About a year ago I purchased a BSA sporterized P17 from another CGN member. When I received it, I had my gunsmith unscrew the barrel, and much to my disappointment, the feed ramp was altered beyond repair. The feed ramp is also part of the bottom locking lug. So to make a long story short, my P17 BSA receiver was useless with only one locking lug being used. But it appeared that someone had fired it in that condition, as the markings indicated.:eek:
P1000558.jpg

P1000559.jpg
 
kell2784,

That is a bit scary! Epps did the .303 Epps rechambering for my BSA/P14 and didn't report anything amiss, so I presume it was OK. I did dye the lugs and check the evenness of the engagement and one definitely had more contact than the other. But since it shot about 1.25" @ 100m with Remington RN (before rechambering- I haven't worked up Epps loads yet), I'm not too worried about it.

I haven't called Dayton-Traister yet to order a kit; maybe I'll wait to hear feedback if anyone has used one, But at the price it would be a great deal if it worked.

:) Stuart
 
kell2784 said:
I wouldn't worry about the quality of Epps work, they are top notch. It's the backyard gunsmith that frightens me.
Click to expand...

Sorry if I implied that I was suspecting Epps- not at all. (I'M the backyard gunsmith! :eek: ) Most people use spitzers and I didn't specifically ask them to try and make it feed RN's.

:) Stuart
 
kell2784 said:
Dayton Traister has a 'speedlock' kit that I used on a P14. It replaces that horribly long lock time with a new spring, and I think it comes with a aftermarket trigger assembly too. It is very nice and works extremely well. It is almost a necessary upgrade on the P17/P14 action, and the service is great too.
Click to expand...
I just got my speedlock today. The trigger is a snap to install, and is somewhat adjustable for overtravel and weight. I set it down to about 2.5lbs, and adjusted the sear engagement for minimal over travel (there is no take up out of the box, so no adjustment needed there).

The speedlock kit is a bit more work to install, you need to remove 3/32" of material from the back of your bolt body, and make sure the cam angle and the cocking piece angle mate nicely for an effortless bolt opening. Then you get to install the uber-strong main spring which is a ##### to do; I ended up using my bench vise to compress the damn thing while I installed the cocking piece. Re-cocking this SOB with the he-man mainspring takes a lot of effort, and re-assembling the bolt resulted in a few cuss words, pinched flesh (F*K that hurts!!!) and bloody knuckles. But I got 'er done.

Also, the new trigger is a bit more bulky than the original, so I still have some inletting to do, but that's not real difficult.

Though I must say, the faster lock time is quite noticible, and the trigger is a much needed upgrade over the (already-tuned) military job.
 
I'll admit that I didn't install the new spring myself. (My gunsmith did it for me.)
I have a couple more 14's around that I'll do myself. Thanks for the info, and I'll know what to expect.
After reading a couple other people's opinions, I am actually thinking of doing a 45-70 bolt action project. A classic round in an old proven action.
 
I'm going to revive an old thread here.

I'm curious on the amount of material that will have to be removed from the bottom rails (where top of mag well mates) to accomodate a 375HH feeding from a P14? I put a P17 action side by side, and briefly made a quick mark where a 'little' material will need to milled away. They obviously put extra steel in there because the .303 cartridge wasn't that long, and there was no need to have that area enlarged. I want to leave as much as possible, but am curious if anyone has fed big belts out of a P14 with minimal milling?
 
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