Paint Durability

blargon

blargon

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I've been reading lots about painting synthetic stocks, but I can't find much about the durability of Krylon or other D-I-Y paint jobs. Hw long do these last, months or years? The only solvents involved would be rem-oil or hoppe's 9, so I'm more interested in scratches and flaking.

Has anyone painted a Tikka stock?

thanks
 
If you like basic black, bed liner spray paint from cdn tire is very durable and gives a textured, kind of rubbery surface. Does accept other paints on top once cured so can be a base for a textured paint job.

Otherwise, I have yet to find a spray bomb paint that would stand up to any general useage. Bumper and so called epoxy paints are a bit more durable then the laquer or enamel paints. BBQ paint is also not bad but the colour selection is limited.

Varathane or polyurethane is very durable but colours selection is basic with few metallics or camo colours. Probably your toughest one step choice.

About the only way I have made the colour more durable is to top coat with rocker panel clear 'paint'. This is the bumpy stuff you see on cars and trucks at the bottom of the door and rear quarter panel.

The stuff in spray cans can be had from Lordco. Pretty pricey at around $25 can. Also, give a textured surface but is very durable and a bit rubbery.

The better stuff would need to be sprayed like an auto paint shop. This stuff is catalysed (read kill you dead without proper breathing gear) and very tough. You might be able to sneak a stock into a paint booth when someone is spraying a car/truck.

I am not sure what companies like Ian's, HS and McM use for a 'paint'. Maybe Ian can offer some insight. Much is gel coat so the colour is part of the stock matrix.

Applying gel coat as a paint would be best described as a futile attempt to really pooch its appearance. If you figure it out, please let me know....

Jerry
 
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a 2 part epoxy paint is about the best way to go. One of the folks around here markets a product called 'dura coat' that's supposed to be good.
 
It depends on your prep work and how you treat your rifles.

If you make the surfaces a bit rough, degrease, use a Kryon *fusion* primer and then paint your cool camo on top of that, and then add several layers of clear coat, they will last well.

If you smash your rifles up, drop solvent on the stock (you don't need to cleant the stock with solvent:) ) the paint wil eventually chip and scratch.

Paint jobs are not ever going to be as durable as the coatings etc that are avaialble. The plus side of the paint jobs is that they are fun, cheap, and quick, and if you get some scratches on your stock this hunting season, no worries- just sand it up a bit and repaint. Maybe you want another colour by then anyway?:cool:
 
Most of our stocks go out with the colour finish done in the gel coat. This is the toughest finish there is. Stocks we paint get Polane T which is a two part urethane paint. About the toughest paint there is. Fairly easy to use but costs about $200 to get what you need and you need a proper respirator and ventilation.
 
Ian, thanks for the feedback.

Why is the good stuff always expensive and tends to kill you?

My understanding is that the duracoats and similar paints are heat cured which allows a different paint chemistry. I don't know if they are catalysed though.

Certainly more durable then your run of the mill spray paint but they are expensive and you need a big enough oven to cure. They are no better then reg. paint if you don't heat cure.

The toughest paint I am aware of (might not even be considered paint) is the stuff used on mining machinery. Stuff used to colour buckets of loaders and cats. Except for the claws, the paint stays put while digging up the planet.

That should survive a few trips in the cab of a truck. Anyone do industrial equipment painting?

Anyone play with boats? The two part epoxy marine paint is also very durable. Not sure on colour and application needs but should be available at Industrial Plastics or similar outlet. Small volumes would be available.

Don't think this stuff is as lethal as the catalysed urethane paints.

Best thing to try and get to know your custom auto paint companies. They will use the good stuff and have some awesome colours not available in spray bombs. They might do your stock up for a reasonable cost when they are already painting a car. There is always extra paint in the gun that gets tossed.

Jerry
 
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The car paint is good stuff although most car painters only know how to do high gloss. Getting a flat or semi finish in quality paint is unknown to most of them.
 
The toughest paint I am aware of (might not even be considered paint) is the stuff used on mining machinery. Stuff used to colour buckets of loaders and cats. Except for the claws, the paint stays put while digging up the planet.

That should survive a few trips in the cab of a truck. Anyone do industrial equipment painting
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..........as a heavy equipment partstech, i can assure you that the paint on Komatsu, CAT, John Deere, Hitachi, Timberjack and the like is no different then the Tremclad or Krylon you buy at Crappy Tire. Its no different and not any more durable. I also used to paint said equipment at a Komatsu dealership.
 
I guarantee that the JD green spray bombs you get from the tractor dealers are very high quality and the stinkiest. You probably do not want green though. The easist to apply and best resistance to chemicals, oils and heat is the Rustoleum Hardhat industrial spray bomb. I have painted many engines with this stuff over the years and it has lasted very well even though it is not advertised as heat resistant. That is the best I have found short of catalist activated and two part paints.
 
.................Rustoleum is a good durable product as well. Can be bought at Acklands, Gregg distributors, Century Vallen and those type of industrial supply distributors.
 
Well, so far it seems the best way to go would be dura coat or armacoat, but I do have some rustoleum available, not sure of the colors.
 
I have painted MANY stocks/rifles with Krylon paint and a Matte clearcoat with no problems.

Yes, solvents will eat the paint, but if you are careful claening your firearms, there are no worries.

If you are rough on your firearms, the finish will scratch & chip, but any finish will.

IMHO, a few scratches, etc, add character and shows that a firearm is used and not a pampered safe queen.;)

There are better products on there market these days, such as Dura-coat, Gun-Kote, Cera-Kote,Polene T,and Arma-Coat.These all require airbrushes/spray guns,sandblasters,compressors ,ventilation & respirators to apply properly.Some of these also require baking to cure.They are also more expensive then "rattle cans".

Krylon is cheap, easy to use, and can be easily removed if your tastes in color/camo change.

SKBY.
 
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