Painting ?

atr

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So i just bought a Savage 10FCP McMillan , a Holland brake installed , the stock pillar and glass bedded and topped with a Warren 20 moa base , TPS rings and a Sightron 6 x 24 x 50 . Shooting great with Hornaday brass , BR2 primers , 175 grain SMKS and 43.5 grains of Varget with a COAL of 2.810" . 5 shot groups into half inch with a few groups in the .3' .

What's not to like ? The color of the stock , black . I'd like OD Green . So my internet quest began . I can't find anything on prepping a fiberglass stock for painting like removing even hand oil so the paint sticks . Suggestions ? I'll take the barreled action out and mask the interior of the stock . Primer , half the internet says that primer is unnecessay while the other half says two coats . Paint , most seem to use spray Krylon , and i'll be using a spray can but many say the Krylon wears off fairly quickly and there is better spray paint . Is there , what is it ? Guys are saying to clear coat any paint with clear Marine laquer to prevent the paint from wearing off . I can do that if clear Marine laquer comes in a spray can . No stencils , no camo , no fancy designs , just OD Green .

I'd really appreciate a tutorial from any of you guys that have painted a synthetic stock or know how to do it as this is a great rifle and i don't want to mess it up .

Thanks Guys .

P.S. ... shout out . I bought the above rig used , mint with 130 rounds fired and logged . The fellow i bought it from had lost the set screw key to take the target turrets off . Checked all of my keys , standard and metric and nothing i had fit . Called Mystic Precision and Jerry put me on to Peter at Hirsch Precision and i had the answer . One side of the country to the other with me in the middle . Awesome .
 
Prepping it is easy, just make surethe surface is oil free. I like to put acetone in a spray bottle and spray a thin coat and then hit it with compressed air. Don't let the acetone sit on it long, it can eat the finish.

Krylon is fine and is easy to touch up (or remove if you want to). It just looks ugly when it starts to wear off. Cerecoat can be found in a can but its harder to find and more expensive.
Duracoat or Armacoat would be better, but unless you have the tools to apply it you'll have to find someone that offers that service.

I have done a lot of both, I just don't like the idea of Krylon on a McMillian stock. Cheap paint on an expensive stock is turning my skin green.
IF you really want to use Krylon camo paint (and it is good paint) here is my step by step.

Paint it in a room that you can plastic off
Hand the stock from the ceiling so you are not touching it
Remove the oils with acetone as it has no oils in it, but blast it with air quickly so it does not remove original finish
Prime with Krylon grey primer, 2 thin coats and allow 24 dry and then lightly sand with 0000 steel wool to remove and bumps, hit with compressed air and apply another coat
Use Olive Drab Krylon. Again thin coats still satisfied, make sure you are spraying far enough away and light enough to avoid runs
I really, really recommend Krylon matt sealer for a finish. It adds a very hard matt finish that will give the paint a little more durability. It can also be sprayed over with Kylon again if you need to do touchups and bonds well.
 
Here are some Krylon jobs if you are wondering what they look like after. I have a really cool one that I did for my son's 22lr but I dont have a pic handy. Its like a blue urban camo, pretty neat.

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Wax and grease remover. Should be able to find this in the body section of most auto parts stores, Duplicolor makes one, as does ProForm and many others. Wipe on, Wipe off. That what I used when I painted my camaro, metal and plastic and fiberglass and all.
 
Surface Prep is the MOST important step in the process.......

The surface has to be free of any and all traces of grease/oils.......

You can use various chemical for degreasing.....I have used lacquer thinner, acetone, Dupont Wax/Grease remover, and good old dish soap and hot water.....

After degreasing it is important that you DO NOT touch surface with you bare hands...... use surgical type gloves after cleaning........

Sometimes you can get away without primer.....I tend to use an adhesion promoter on all the stuff I paint.

If you want to do it cheaply, and have the option of removing the paint at a later date or changing the color/pattern I would stick with good ol' Krylon...... ;)

For a more permanent application you can use Dura-Coat, Arma-Coat, Gun-Kote, or Cerakote. Some of these coating require baking to cure them.

I am currently using Gun-Kote and have some Cera-Kote onhand to try out........:D


These were painted using Krylon.......


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And My TAC-21 in Gun-Kote OD Gray....

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Have several TAC-21 Chassis to paint in Cera-Kote.... ;)
 
Laird Jebus you guys do nice work . Skullboy , adhesion promoter ? Also , those mentioned , Arma-Coat , Dura-Coat , Cerakote and Gun-Coat , which one or ones don't require baking but will be very durable . I'll clear coat it after the paint but the stock won't fit in my oven .

It'll be awhile before i do it . I'm going to do it on the gazebo but we've had so much rain leaving so much standing water around Thunder Bay there are 4 billion black flies per cubic inch of air and i don't want them walking on fresh paint . Have to wait until we get hot weather to dry the water up and kill the black flies off .

The good news , we scored 26 rabbits on Friday evening . The better news , i scored a head shot at 263 yards . 175 SMK's leave a mark .
 
Laird Jebus you guys do nice work . Skullboy , adhesion promoter ? Also , those mentioned , Arma-Coat , Dura-Coat , Cerakote and Gun-Coat , which one or ones don't require baking but will be very durable . I'll clear coat it after the paint but the stock won't fit in my oven .

Dura-Coat and Cerakote have Air Cure coatings........I think Arma-Coat does as well but I am not sure......Usually the Air Cure coatings take 7 or more days to fully cure.......

The adhesion promoter I use I get at Canadian Tire in the automotive paint section.......It is in a large spray can with a Black top and blue label........It helps the adhesion between the surface of what is being painted and the paint itself......
 
Don't use acetone indoors, particularly in any method that makes it vaporize any faster. It's great stuff but a wicked carcinogen. Lots of ventilation and a respirator is key.
 
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