Paper patching

Easyrider said:
Don't use tape or anything else to stick the paper on the bullet. The patch absolutely needs to be cut into confetti by the rifling, and come off as soon as it exits the muzzle. Don't worry about abrasiveness as mentioned above. It is well proven to not be an issue. The paper doesn't need to be lubed. Dip the patch I water, wipe the excess off on a towel, wrap it on, set the wrapped bullet on its base on a newspaper, to help absorb the water and speed drying. When dry, the paper shrinks a bit, and will be nice and tight. I have done hundreds of these, trust me, it works. If the patch sticks to the bullet beyond the muzzle, bad stuff happens to your accuracy.
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Thanks for that easyrider. I just thought the Kynoch wrapping looked so easy.
 
I patch my .303 when I watch tv in the evening, when I need them. a day or two later I lube them while watching tv. let those dry and I store them in the clamshell packs screws come in at the hardware store. I bell the casings with a tapered machinists punch and a leather mallet, and casings are neck sized only. the bullet slips in, then I give a "baby finger" crimp on my press. meaning I use my little finger to push down on the press handle to give a very gentle crimp. nothing complicated about it, and I don`t have to mess around with greasy waxy bullet lube and gas checks. I lightly anneal the necks every 2 loadings and my Winchester brass is on its 4th go round with only 2 split necks from 100 cases, and no indicators of case head separation.
I use an NOE mould, with lube grooves. the paper shrinks into the groves which seem to hold the paper on better. this paper will litter the ground in front of you if there is no wind, and will garner a lot of attention at the range because you will be the only one that many of the other members have seen that paper jacket the bullet.
I always write on each case the powder type, and grains in that casing. I don`t size, as my bore is over size. it was frosted when I bought it, stayed black through all the factory ammo, then got shiny after 200 or so paper jacket bullets. only lead I get is when I feed too fast from the mag. the lips carve a tiny sliver of lead out that seems to end up in the chamber and stays there till cleaning.
I knew an old guy who had a Sharp`s .50 and he paper wraped his bullets for that.
 
Go to Staples for this paper

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CastBoolits has a guy in the "smokeless paper patching" section that goes by the name of 303guy. Once in a while he has a project rifle that is best described as "worn out". He had one that was a real basket case, and by shooting unlubed paper patched tapered bullets, he was able to get very decent accuracy. Every few hundred rounds he would have to increase the speed to get accuracy to return, as the bore was scoured clean by the light cleaning of clay in the paper he used for wrapping.

Computer paper seems to have a high clay content, and polished the bore of his one gun, that he described as a "sewer pipe"

Very interesting to browse his posts, as the theory of paper patching can be very difficult to follow: faster powders vs slower powders: full case of powder vs a power that doesn't fill the case as much.

I've paper patched a bit, but am a long ways from what would be called success.

When I get home to my house, I think I know exactly where the article by Ross Seyfreid is in my collection of Double Gun Journal's...
 
Lionel said:
CastBoolits has a guy in the "smokeless paper patching" section that goes by the name of 303guy. Once in a while he has a project rifle that is best described as "worn out". He had one that was a real basket case, and by shooting unlubed paper patched tapered bullets, he was able to get very decent accuracy. Every few hundred rounds he would have to increase the speed to get accuracy to return, as the bore was scoured clean by the light cleaning of clay in the paper he used for wrapping.

Computer paper seems to have a high clay content, and polished the bore of his one gun, that he described as a "sewer pipe"

Very interesting to browse his posts, as the theory of paper patching can be very difficult to follow: faster powders vs slower powders: full case of powder vs a power that doesn't fill the case as much.

I've paper patched a bit, but am a long ways from what would be called success.

When I get home to my house, I think I know exactly where the article by Ross Seyfreid is in my collection of Double Gun Journal's...
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Thank you I'm on Cast Boolits but hadn't even considered paper patching as a solution to a heavily pitted bore....always thought of it as caliber-specific. Will have a read on this for sure.
 
infideleggwelder said:
I patch my .303 when I watch tv in the evening, when I need them. a day or two later I lube them while watching tv. let those dry and I store them in the clamshell packs screws come in at the hardware store. I bell the casings with a tapered machinists punch and a leather mallet, and casings are neck sized only. the bullet slips in, then I give a "baby finger" crimp on my press. meaning I use my little finger to push down on the press handle to give a very gentle crimp. nothing complicated about it, and I don`t have to mess around with greasy waxy bullet lube and gas checks. I lightly anneal the necks every 2 loadings and my Winchester brass is on its 4th go round with only 2 split necks from 100 cases, and no indicators of case head separation.
I use an NOE mould, with lube grooves. the paper shrinks into the groves which seem to hold the paper on better. this paper will litter the ground in front of you if there is no wind, and will garner a lot of attention at the range because you will be the only one that many of the other members have seen that paper jacket the bullet.
I always write on each case the powder type, and grains in that casing. I don`t size, as my bore is over size. it was frosted when I bought it, stayed black through all the factory ammo, then got shiny after 200 or so paper jacket bullets. only lead I get is when I feed too fast from the mag. the lips carve a tiny sliver of lead out that seems to end up in the chamber and stays there till cleaning.
I knew an old guy who had a Sharp`s .50 and he paper wraped his bullets for that.
Click to expand...

I've been roundly chastised on other threads to suggest that paper patching is abrasive when used. Here is proof as polishing requires metal removal.
Virtually every ancient Sharps or rolling block from the Buffalo era with an original barrel still on them that I have looked at, have showed considerable rifling wear. Very much more than the lever guns from the "Express ammo" era that weren't patched.

Not condemning the use of "patched", they do have their place as shown in the above post, just warning of the reality that a steady diet of them does cause quicker bore deterioration than cast
 
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