Parallax Error Calculator

That is super interesting.

My understanding is that if you have a proper cheek weld and scope height setup, you should experience a minimum of Parallax right?
 
Good idea - but I think with longer range, the parallax error often lost in wind, etc. It gets really apparent with a centerfire scope with parallax free at 150 yards, then using it on a rimfire to shoot at 20 or 25 yards. Without moving rifle (on sandbags), simply moving head side to side, slightly, or up and down, slightly, and watch the cross hairs appear to move to different place on the target.
 
jonyork said:
My understanding is that if you have a proper cheek weld and scope height setup, you should experience a minimum of Parallax right?
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Exact repeatable cheek weld does not eliminate parrallax error, but allows the shooter to repeat it exactly the same every time, which allows shots to be aimed to the same point each time. Slightly moving your head will show you if you have a sighting parallax error in your scope at the range that you are aiming at. Consistent cheek weld can reduce the effect of that sighting error, by making it repeatable.
 
It's interesting because I was looking for a rimfire scope for a squirrel gun.

Problem is, I often do my work in 20 yards or less. I was thinking a rimfire scope for simplicity, but perhaps I'm better off with a side parallex adjuster?
 
jonyork said:
Problem is, I often do my work in 20 yards or less. I was thinking a rimfire scope for simplicity, but perhaps I'm better off with a side parallex adjuster?
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Might be getting into "nits", but up to you. I have a Leupold FX-1 4x28 on order - a Leupold rimfire fixed 4 power. It, like other Leupold rimfire, are supposed to be set parallax free at 60 yards. I do not think you will find many rimfire scopes set much less than 50 yards?? With the VX-2 and VX-1 rimfire scopes that I already have, I have to get so I see half black - that far off to the side, and then I get the cross hairs moved maybe a squirrel's head worth at 25 yards - fully going left to right from half black to half black. So if I were to miss a squirrel's head at 25 yards, and if I had full clear view through the scope, the scope and it's parallax error had nothing to do with my miss. If I was in rimfire bench rest competition where 10 shot groups or 50 shot strings measured to .001", likely it would matter. I have a Meuller APV 4.5-14x40 AO scope that was highly talked up for the rimfire silhouette game - it was parallax adjustable, but those targets are 40 meters out to 100 meters or so. I have a very small rifle to scope - a CZ Scout, so I want a very small lightweight scope for it - hence the order for the FX-1 4x28. Over the years have shot at bazillions of gophers with iron sighted Cooey's, Bushnell 2-7 scopes on Nylon 66 and Ruger 10/22, etc., so I prefer, for this set up to have simple fixed 4 power rimfire scope - nothing to adjust, nothing to have at the wrong setting - see what I want to hit and just shoot it...
 
jonyork said:
It's interesting because I was looking for a rimfire scope for a squirrel gun.

Problem is, I often do my work in 20 yards or less. I was thinking a rimfire scope for simplicity, but perhaps I'm better off with a side parallex adjuster?
Click to expand...

I’ve been enjoying the Leupold Freedom 2-7 rimfire scope. Excellent glass and a very good reticle. I haven’t found any issues using it from 15 to 100 yds. (Parallax is fixed at 60y)

The Nikon Prostaff 3-9 EFR is a great rimfire scope, it has AO and can focus very close (10’ I believe). My only complaint is it features a dot reticle vs crosshairs.
 
The trouble with a calculator like this one is it is working on the basis of a scope which isn’t; to use a technical term “Broken”. It doesn’t matter much if a program says the error is inches when its demonstrably measured in feet. :(

It isn’t very hard to adjust the parallax on a non-adjustable scope; to for instance make a center-fire scope suitable for rim rifle or air rifle use.
 
https://www.lelandwest.com/parallax...onid=E50789F6B3F983006365E0BADFC914BD.cfusion

This article is a little misleading ... you can shoot with a scope (with its reticle set to be "parallax free" at 100 yds) at a target at 200 yards and experience no parallax induced "error" (to use their words) ... all you have to do is keep your eye centered in the FOV.

read these words from the web site:
Strictly speaking the maximum possible error is double the number you will get below if you sight to your destination by peeking through it from the edge of your scope... which nobody actually does. For a true theoretical maximum double the returned result values.
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in other words parallax is the result of having your eye moved away from the optical centre of the scope. To interpolate this conclusion ... it follows that you can reduce parallax to nil by keeping your eye in the optical centre of the scope. Having a proper cheek weld that can be repeated and is in the optical centre ... will eliminate parallax related errors. Your best bet is to adjust the parallax error out of your scope for the range you are working at ... AND keep your eye centred.
 
GMC403 said:
I’ve been enjoying the Leupold Freedom 2-7 rimfire scope. Excellent glass and a very good reticle. I haven’t found any issues using it from 15 to 100 yds. (Parallax is fixed at 60y)

The Nikon Prostaff 3-9 EFR is a great rimfire scope, it has AO and can focus very close (10’ I believe). My only complaint is it features a dot reticle vs crosshairs.
Click to expand...

I have the Leupold 3-9x40 rimfire freedom scope which also has the parallax set at 60 yards and it is a very good scope. BUT I also notice that once the range starts to go past 75 yards the image starts to get a little blurry and I am not to happy with that. I should have got a model with adjustable parallax instead.
 
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