Parkerising Garand receiver

Grizzly Adams

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So, the parts are stating to pile up, :) and I'm thinking it's time to parkerise the receiver. Does one need to protect the barrel threads or is that not a worry?

Grizz
 
So, the parts are stating to pile up, :) and I'm thinking it's time to parkerise the receiver. Does one need to protect the barrel threads or is that not a worry?

Grizz

I've just sandblasted mine (even the threads) with some fine blasting media.
Got real nice results.

Don't forget to degrease them before blasting. (you don't want oïl in your blasting cabinet)
 
So, the parts are stating to pile up, :) and I'm thinking it's time to parkerise the receiver. Does one need to protect the barrel threads or is that not a worry?

Grizz
You don't need to blast the receiver or other parts to the extent that it causes dimensional changes. Degrease/de-oil first and then blast. The purpose of the blasting is to clean and activate the steel surface so that it is more reactive with the Parkerizing solution. I generally have the freshly blasted parts into solution within 15 minutes to minimize oxidization of the freshly blasted surface. After de-oiling make sure that you only handle the parts with rubber gloves to avoid fingerprint oil contamination.
 
I degrease everything and then get at every nook n' cranny with the sandblaster. As the actual parkerizing process only takes a few minutes consider any other small parts as well. I like to do the trigger housing/guard/trigger/safety so they match the receiver. Also the bolt after stripping it completely.
 
It all depends on the look you want. If you blast too aggressively you may lose the subtle machining marks and patina on the receiver. If it is corroded or all beat up the. Have at her.

There is such a thing as over restored and the same goes for collector cars as well.
 
I just put all the parts together and shoot it. That is the way most of the rebuilds were done that I have seen.
Most of the metal parts match up anyway. I have a few to put together and just match the color best I can.
It seems to work. Wood matching is harder!
 
I just put all the parts together and shoot it. That is the way most of the rebuilds were done that I have seen.
Most of the metal parts match up anyway. I have a few to put together and just match the color best I can.
It seems to work. Wood matching is harder!
That's all I did with my build this time around. But in many Garands past, I did not have access to a sandblasted so I just dunked the metal work in a tub of 50-50 Muriatic acid/water mixture. Be safe with this shzt!!

Cheers and happy building. :wave:
 
Mostly, I was concerned about the parkerising solution affecting the barrel threads and barrel installation. Thanks for everything so far.

Grizz
 
The Parkerizing solution has no effect on this. A barrel will be in approx the same hand tight posn on the same receiver before and after the receiver has been parkerized. The barrel timing is affected by the relationship of the barrel shoulder to the face of the receiver. The barrel shoulder is crushed to some extent when it is tightened against the face of the receiver into the final top dead center/zero index position. I find it useful to clean out the receiver threads with a Dremel wire brush before degreasing and blasting. Some of the crud in there gets pretty solid over time.
 
That's all I did with my build this time around. But in many Garands past, I did not have access to a sandblasted so I just dunked the metal work in a tub of 50-50 Muriatic acid/water mixture. Be safe with this shzt!!

Cheers and happy building. :wave:

By doing this with the manganese phosphate you will get a darker finish with heavier crystalline finis, by skipping this step of using the acid the solution generally comes out more grey and has a smoother appearance.
 
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