Parkerizing, again.

[canadianshooter]

I've searched and read through the parkerizing posts and have some questions. I'd like to Parkerize a worn Remington 870. I read you're not supposed to parkerize springs, does this mean you have to remove the ejector assembly (riveted...)? Also, is there a large range of thicknesses that parkerizing can create - can you build up enough thickness to cause problems with smooth and proper function? ie. can you parkerize the trigger group including sear after taking it apart? Are there parts besides the bore that I shouldn't parkerize? What will parkerizing look like over an Express Magnum finish if I don't bead blast (some say you have to blast before parkerizing others say it's not necessary)? Finally what products have you guys had the best results with? Lots of questions I know and sorry if they've been covered before but I'd like to get a better idea of what's involved and what to do. Thanks in advance.

 

[OneBarfly]

Chances are the you can't parkerize the trigger housing anyway - it's made of alloy. As to thickening - I don't see this as affecting the ejector, etc. as refinishing is routinely done after the installation of these parts. As to bead-blasting first, that would be my recomendation for a more even finish on bigger parts like a receiver and/or barrel. The action may seem a little rougher at first, but should smoth out OK.

 

[Claven2]

1) The trigger guard on an 870 will either be an aluminum alloy or black plastic. It will not parkerize.

2) The Express finish is already sandblasted. If you dunk the receiver into muriatic acid for 2 minutes, rinse in room-temerature water and then straight into the park tank, it will remove the crappy factory blueing, leavign the sandblasted finish. It won't have time to flash-rust if you do as above.

3) Parkerizing is microns thick - won't ever be a problem.

4) You can put an 870 ejector spring into a park bath - no problem. Don;t remove it.

5) Other than the bore, park everything that's made of genuine steel. If you have any chromed parts (like some bolts) they will not parkerize unless you burn the chrome off with acid (not recommended).

6) For best results, buy a bottle of Radocy and follow the instructions. It's possible to make your own that may or may not work right the first time, but radocy is cheap and works every time.

7) When parking the barrel, plug both ends FIRMLY with CORK. Fill the barrel with warm water BEFORE corking it, or the air will expand and pop the corks out in the park tank. When done, pour out the water and oil the bore immediately to prevent flash-rusting.

 

[sunray]

You need to remove all springs. Parkerizing doesn't work on SS(although my M1's gas tube took it just fine), Al or any other non-ferrous metal.
"...build up enough thickness to cause..." Nope. You'll be greasing the moving parts after finishing and oiling the rest of it anyway. Parkerizing isn't very thick either.
"...blast before parkerizing..." It's not required. Nor do you have to remove the old finish first. No matter what that finish is.
"...remove the ejector assembly..." You'd be best to leave the bolt as it is.

 

[canadianshooter]

Excellent information, thank you. One clarification - I realize the trigger guard is made of plastic but how should I go about parkerizing the trigger group? As an entire assembly or completely broken down into individual parts? Thanks again, good to find knowledgeable help.

 

[sunray]

"...completely broken down into individual parts..." Yep. Otherwise you won't get full coverage. Any touching parts won't get covered where they touch.