Yep, that's always a good idea. Only takes an extra minute or two and then you don't have to worry about the powder discoloring the hopper tubes.
Perils of the wrong powder
- Thread starter BMcCarron
- Start date
Yep, that's always a good idea. Only takes an extra minute or two and then you don't have to worry about the powder discoloring the hopper tubes.
We are reading this post about being careful when reloading and it shocks me to see another post that has posters expressing their opinions not to worry about mixing brass with different head stamps.
Uncontrolled pressures that are a result of mixed powders, incorrect powders (as this guy has experienced), incorrect primers, mixed brass, improper sizing, bullet seating depths or diameters and improper crimping can searously hurt an individual.
There are a number of simple precautions to take while reloading by keep all components in their original containers. Ensure you double check your charge throws on a regular basis and keep the selected powder container on the bench. Never drink or watch tv while performing your tasks. Only do one step or station at one time.
These are just a fraction of the things that should be considered.
"Attention to details" is the name of the game.
Uncontrolled pressures that are a result of mixed powders, incorrect powders (as this guy has experienced), incorrect primers, mixed brass, improper sizing, bullet seating depths or diameters and improper crimping can searously hurt an individual.
There are a number of simple precautions to take while reloading by keep all components in their original containers. Ensure you double check your charge throws on a regular basis and keep the selected powder container on the bench. Never drink or watch tv while performing your tasks. Only do one step or station at one time.
These are just a fraction of the things that should be considered.
"Attention to details" is the name of the game.
Quote from article.
“This is the hardest post to post. I know if I had read it a week ago my comment would have been: ‘You have no business reloading’. I had everything perfect, except pouring the wrong powder in the powder measure. I type this slowly with my left hand, embarrassed but … possibly saving someone else a tragedy or, like me, a long drive to the Emergency Room and surgery to save my finger.”
Yup, perfect except for loading the wrong powder and not knowing the difference btw flake and extruded. Either not paying attention at all or totally inexperienced. Don't blame the mfr, anyone that can mix up TG and Varget shouldn't be reloading.
“This is the hardest post to post. I know if I had read it a week ago my comment would have been: ‘You have no business reloading’. I had everything perfect, except pouring the wrong powder in the powder measure. I type this slowly with my left hand, embarrassed but … possibly saving someone else a tragedy or, like me, a long drive to the Emergency Room and surgery to save my finger.”
Yup, perfect except for loading the wrong powder and not knowing the difference btw flake and extruded. Either not paying attention at all or totally inexperienced. Don't blame the mfr, anyone that can mix up TG and Varget shouldn't be reloading.
Well, I load with about 20 different powders, and to this date have never had anything even close to a ka-boom!
But I use the cardinal rule....one type of powder on the loading bench at any one time. Check and re-check before
using...is it the correct powder?
Our hobby is plenty safe if we pay attention to the details, and do not become distracted at some time or other.
Stay safe folks. Murphy is alive and well.
Dave.
But I use the cardinal rule....one type of powder on the loading bench at any one time. Check and re-check before
using...is it the correct powder?
Our hobby is plenty safe if we pay attention to the details, and do not become distracted at some time or other.
Stay safe folks. Murphy is alive and well.
Dave.
I have illustrated in that post regarding the extreme differences in case capacity with an identical powder charge. Pistol cases from one manufacturer or bulk ammo are different and the slightest variation can result in catastrophic failures. Pistol charges in themselves are very small making .5 grs in a + or magnum cartridge with varying case dimensions considerable.
It also shocks me that one wouldn't take mixing brass seriously. I know for one I will not and do everything possible to control pressure and be safe.
Steve McQueen
Regular
- Location
- Southern Onterrible
I wonder if leupold will warranty the scope haha
I would think that if you are shooting max loads in anything, it could a big negative, but if I'm shooting a 60% in a rifle with h4895, I don't worry too much about it.
I'm sure lots of users of this forum, like myself, have bought factory reloads, from companies such as Wolf. I have a box right here with 5 different head stamps of brass in it (9mm). They seem to get clearance to market and sell
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I don't know what type of powder measures/throwers you folks have but I have a bunch of those metal edged, round cardboard tags you can easily find at Staples. They fit nicely into the top of my RCBS powder throw. I have tags made up for each of the powders I have on hand in a small box all in alphabetical/numeric order. Usually when I finish a job I dump the leftover powder in the hopper back into the proper container. Not always though. I have gotten into the habit of putting the correspondingly marked disc into the recess at the top of the cap on the hopper.
I got into this habit a long time ago, 40 years ago. Where I lived finding powder was difficult and often had to be ordered out of SIR or some other mail order outfit. Very few shops could be bothered to mail it out and our local gun shop only carried what the owner used personally.
Also, back then all powder available to me was either extruded or flake. Primers were hit and miss as to brand etc.
I used mainly flake powders for pistol cartridges and shotgun shells. All of the powder I had back then for rifle cases was extruded and no matter how educated your eye was almost identical in appearance. Even with only 3-4 types of extruded powder on hand I had problems with not being able to identify the powder in the hopper. The only clues I had to identify them were the loading records I kept. That wasn't always definite either if I took the books and piled them neatly to one side. I was anal about using the wrong powder. Back in the day Kabooms happened far more often than they do today. The reloading manuals weren't nearly as descriptive and were IMHO just barely adequate. I had personally seen the results of using the wrong powder and building up loads way beyond recommended maximums. One good friend lost 50% of the use of his left hand with one of his own "PET LOADS" he always bragged about which used a very fast powder for the cartridge. His excuse was the powder looked exactly like the recommended powder in the Lyman manual so it should have been fine.
Anyway when I noticed I had a quart canning jar of scrapped powder it was time to use some of that empty space between my ears to stop the waste and maybe save my own left hand.
That's when a girl I was dating at the time gave me some of the metal edged tags she used in her shop. Sometimes I think I should have married that girl but now she grows a better mustache than I can. Shaves more often as well but she became very wealthy and had nine kids.
I got into this habit a long time ago, 40 years ago. Where I lived finding powder was difficult and often had to be ordered out of SIR or some other mail order outfit. Very few shops could be bothered to mail it out and our local gun shop only carried what the owner used personally.
Also, back then all powder available to me was either extruded or flake. Primers were hit and miss as to brand etc.
I used mainly flake powders for pistol cartridges and shotgun shells. All of the powder I had back then for rifle cases was extruded and no matter how educated your eye was almost identical in appearance. Even with only 3-4 types of extruded powder on hand I had problems with not being able to identify the powder in the hopper. The only clues I had to identify them were the loading records I kept. That wasn't always definite either if I took the books and piled them neatly to one side. I was anal about using the wrong powder. Back in the day Kabooms happened far more often than they do today. The reloading manuals weren't nearly as descriptive and were IMHO just barely adequate. I had personally seen the results of using the wrong powder and building up loads way beyond recommended maximums. One good friend lost 50% of the use of his left hand with one of his own "PET LOADS" he always bragged about which used a very fast powder for the cartridge. His excuse was the powder looked exactly like the recommended powder in the Lyman manual so it should have been fine.
Anyway when I noticed I had a quart canning jar of scrapped powder it was time to use some of that empty space between my ears to stop the waste and maybe save my own left hand.
That's when a girl I was dating at the time gave me some of the metal edged tags she used in her shop. Sometimes I think I should have married that girl but now she grows a better mustache than I can. Shaves more often as well but she became very wealthy and had nine kids.
A safe reloader takes everything seriously and would not single out mixing brass. Either you are inexperienced or are wearing your tin hat too tightly.
An ANTI makes general stmt like guns are dangerous. Several others have already explained that mixing brass is perfectly safe; mfr do it. If you don't understands the issues then YES, don't mix brass. Those that understands pressure knows when it is safe to mix brass.
An ANTI makes general stmt like guns are dangerous. Several others have already explained that mixing brass is perfectly safe; mfr do it. If you don't understands the issues then YES, don't mix brass. Those that understands pressure knows when it is safe to mix brass.
the safety rule I read on day one even before I started reload is "one powder on the bench at a time". I have been following that religiously. always display the powder I put in the machine right in front of me, and all other powders are in the cabinet with door shut tight so that any time I know exactly what's in my 550b.
replying a post is not writing a contract. let's not read between the lines, using mixing pistol brass doesn't mean people don't care as there are other safety measure in place, like weight your charge etc. otherwise, everything, including the scale is not 100% accurate all the time. to what end you can be careful enough under your context? that's also the reason unless you know what you are doing, never load to near max. that's more important than worrying about mixing brass alone.
For an experiment, I tried sorting my 9mm brass to see how much it would decrease the extreme spread of my reloads (147gr Campro, VV N320 @ 3.5gr, 1.100 COL loaded on a Dillon XL650). Unsorted brass gave me an ES of ~65fps. If I sorted my brass I could get my ES down to about 30fps. If I sorted my brass AND my projectiles, I got my ES down to ~18fps.
So from my experience of reloading ~20k 9mm rounds a year, I've not found unsorted brass to be an issue. I'm more concerned about getting repeatable powder throw weights, and variations of powder performance between different lots.
The more I think about this I find it very hard to believe that an individual made such a glaring mistake by mixing up containers of powder. The labeling is printed with the number so large you can not mistake one speed of powder even in an identical brand of propellant. Even alternate brands will package differently. There are also notable visual and odor differences between each brand and speed of propellant.
This poor lad must of been reloading in a poorly lit work area or was totally not in the mind set for such a task. Thinking about work, loved ones or a partner will cloud you mind and get
you off the correct train of thought. In conclusion He was not thinking at all for the task at hand and could have lost his life.
http://www.darkcanyon.net/john_wooters_reloading_safety_tips.htm
From a PRO.
Quote:
COMPONENTS
Bullets:
Be sure that they are the recommended diameter and weight. Keep bullet calibers and weights in separate and accurately marked containers.
Do not mix or interchange bullets from various manufacturers in the same reloading formula.
Don't substitute calibers, use only that which your gun is chambered for exactly, e.g., .300 Winchester Magnum is not a .300 Savage.
Primers:
Inspect for presence of anvils before seating. Store only in original manufacturers' package. Keep a minimum amount on your loading bench. Remove unused primers from your loading tool after each session and return to the original package for storage.
Keep out of reach of children.
Store in a cool dry place.
Do not store primers in bulk. Mass detonation may occur. Use only the brand of primers specified in the loading recommendations.
Cases:
Do not mix brands - case volume may be different affecting loading density and pressure.Inspect for cracks, splits, stretch marks, separations, etc. after firing and before reloading. Do not load damaged or defective cases. Do not ream or enlarge primer flash holes
Examine fired shotshells for head damage, tube splits, pinholes, and location of basewad before reloading. Discard defective cases. Discard cases that show leakage around the primer or battery cup.
Do not mix shells with high and low basewads.
Do not mix brands of cases - volumes may be different.
Powder:
Store in a cool, dry place in the original container in an approved storage cabinet. Keep container closed except when pouring.
Keep powder out of reach of children
Have only one type and speed on your bench at one time to avoid mixing types.
Keep a minimum amount of powder in the loading area.
Never mix powders.
Don't use any powder when you are unsure of its identity. do not use any powder that appears discolored or is giving off fumes.
UnQuote:
This poor lad must of been reloading in a poorly lit work area or was totally not in the mind set for such a task. Thinking about work, loved ones or a partner will cloud you mind and get
you off the correct train of thought. In conclusion He was not thinking at all for the task at hand and could have lost his life.
http://www.darkcanyon.net/john_wooters_reloading_safety_tips.htm
From a PRO.
Quote:
COMPONENTS
Bullets:
Be sure that they are the recommended diameter and weight. Keep bullet calibers and weights in separate and accurately marked containers.
Do not mix or interchange bullets from various manufacturers in the same reloading formula.
Don't substitute calibers, use only that which your gun is chambered for exactly, e.g., .300 Winchester Magnum is not a .300 Savage.
Primers:
Inspect for presence of anvils before seating. Store only in original manufacturers' package. Keep a minimum amount on your loading bench. Remove unused primers from your loading tool after each session and return to the original package for storage.
Keep out of reach of children.
Store in a cool dry place.
Do not store primers in bulk. Mass detonation may occur. Use only the brand of primers specified in the loading recommendations.
Cases:
Do not mix brands - case volume may be different affecting loading density and pressure.Inspect for cracks, splits, stretch marks, separations, etc. after firing and before reloading. Do not load damaged or defective cases. Do not ream or enlarge primer flash holes
Examine fired shotshells for head damage, tube splits, pinholes, and location of basewad before reloading. Discard defective cases. Discard cases that show leakage around the primer or battery cup.
Do not mix shells with high and low basewads.
Do not mix brands of cases - volumes may be different.
Powder:
Store in a cool, dry place in the original container in an approved storage cabinet. Keep container closed except when pouring.
Keep powder out of reach of children
Have only one type and speed on your bench at one time to avoid mixing types.
Keep a minimum amount of powder in the loading area.
Never mix powders.
Don't use any powder when you are unsure of its identity. do not use any powder that appears discolored or is giving off fumes.
UnQuote:
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I don't see any safety benefit, in fact I think having 4 powder measures - 1 for each powder - just adds complications and more opportunities to make a mistake. Please explain your rationale.
