Picatinny Rail for Sako 85

RangerPark

RangerPark

CGN frequent flyer
GunNutz
Rating - 100%
160   0   0
Location
Near Edmonton, AB
Hello everyone!

As the proud owner of a new Sako 85 I'm now faced with some familiar scope mounting woes. It seems that the words Sako 85 and picatinny rail don't go together. My Sako 85 is an XL action for .375 H&H. Any of the mainstream mounting options, be it Sako or Leupold, place the rings so far apart that it really limits scope positioning or the kind of scope you can mount.

An Italian company called Contessa makes picatinny rails for the Sako 85. A Google search for "Contessa Picatinny Rail for Sako 85 Long" reveals all. Model PH14 is the right one for an XL action. Does anyone have any experience with them? Does anyone know of a Canadian distributor?

They are fairly expensive but they're made of steel. Brownell's has a limited selection. The rail is also listed on some international Beretta websites but nothing whatsoever for Canada. They can also be imported from Europe for about $250 all in, ouch.

Any thoughts or experiences about those rails would be appreciated. Drilling and tapping is out of the question for now.
 
I would be hesitant to put a picatinny on my 85's (or AV) because it would upset aesthetics and balance. I'm well aware that some scopes I've considered won't fit without extensions of some kind. However, I've settled on scopes that fit and suit my rifles just fine.

SAKO%2085%20-%201_zpsoheagjqy.jpg

375 H&H Magnum Sako 85 Kodiak with Leupold VX-2 Ultralight 3-9x33mm scope

Sako_Grey_Wolf_300mag_Monarch%20III_a_zpsjfsemvrh.jpg

300 Win. Mag. Sako 85 Grey Wolf with Nikon Monarch III 4-16x42mm scope

458LOTT_e_zpswleoynsm.jpg

458 Lott Sako AV Hunter with Leupold VX-2 1-4x20mm scope
 
Last edited:
I have a similar ring setup. I'm currently using Leupold Medium height 1" rings. The scope is as far back as can possibly be. As a person with a thicker chest than average, I find myself needing to set up my scope further back than most. Either that or I shorten the length of pull on the stock. For example, I have a McMillan A5 on a .308 and I use it with all the spacers removed. My current scope setup is acceptable but not perfect, about 1/2" too far forward. On a rifle that price, I'd want it perfect. I like how your 1-4x20 is set up. Still room to push it back a little. I'm likely to go with a similar setup in the future if I decide against the rail.

IMG_20170115_080043718_zpsqaies0o3.jpg
 
Slamfire said:
Is there an eye relief issue with your scope? I choose scopes with ample eye relief and mount as far forward as the rings allow.
Click to expand...

I've had this issue with every scope mounted on every rifle I've owned. Having a large chest pushes the rifle and your hands forward, meaning your cheek weld is further back on the stock and the scope needs to come back some to compensate. Either that or a custom stock with a slightly shorter length of pull. I've always used higher end scopes with plentiful eye relief. This Leupold has decent eye relief but it's no NightForce for sure.
 
Keithjohn said:
Richard Near in camrose personally fit this one for me , not cheap but top quality. I forget your name but we met at Ryan's

rbn@nearmfg.com
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Keith! Yes I remember selling you a few things on the EE. Is your rail mounted with side screws or is it drilled and tapped? I don't see any screws on top, so I'm thinking it's what's I'm looking for. I'll send Richard and email.
 
RangerPark said:
Thanks for that Keith! Yes I remember selling you a few things on the EE. Is your rail mounted with side screws or is it drilled and tapped? I don't see any screws on top, so I'm thinking it's what's I'm looking for. I'll send Richard and email.
Click to expand...

No screws at all . It is friction fit , we tapped it on with wooden dowel and will come off the same way
 
Keithjohn said:
No screws at all . It is friction fit , we tapped it on with wooden dowel and will come off the same way
Click to expand...

Wow ok! I guess that's putting the Sako's tapered ring bases to good use. I have to say, yours is the best looking rail I've seen on a Sako 85 yet. I have a feeling I'm in for a bit of sticker shock, I'll see when Richard gets back to me.
 
Fzd3xVj.jpg
It is made precise, I have two one on 25-06 and one on this 7mm . We (Richard )had to sand with fine Emory on front or back base to get the fit just right . I have a 308 he couldn't /wouldn't do because the Sako bases were off level , check yours with a straight edge first . Also look at his mounts - NICE !
 
There is also Mountain Tactical, or Tikka Performance in Montana. The make really high quality Accesories for Tikkas. I know it's not Canadian, but they have a flat rate international shipping charge of 15$ usd. A while back they said they would be making rails for Sako's. Don't know if that has come to fruition. But if it has, they make really high end quality steel rails. They use the optiloc hole in the front for a recoil lug, instead of just the screws. Only thing is they are constantly back ordered. But have reasonable prices for the quality. Including exchange rates. Worth a look.
 
Weaver made two piece bases that were a 'friction' fit on the Sako dovetails. I presume you are planning on a two piece base system..... Redfield also had a base system that went on Sako dovetails and IIRC the rear base was tapped to accept a small screw that snugged down on the checkered surface of the rear Sako dovetail to prevent the bases slipping off if you hung a heavy scope on the bases and brought the butt of the rifle down to hard....!

I presume you are not going to purchase (assuming there is such a unit available for the long action) a 'one piece' base without confirming that it wont interfere with the ejection of a case...or round.
 
The Bushnell Elite 6500 with a 40mm objective has 4" of eye relief and a 7" body tube. 2.5-16 magnification. Thats the longest going.

Before you fit a rail, tape on a ruler or something and cycle some empty brass, and make sure it ejects. 85s are finicky.
 
Bartledan said:
Before you fit a rail, tape on a ruler or something and cycle some empty brass, and make sure it ejects. 85s are finicky.
Click to expand...

Funny you mention that, it's exactly what I did over the weekend. I now have a rail on order from NEAR Mfg, without anything in the way, the 85 ejects shells so hard one actually poked a small hole in my suspended ceiling. With a ruler in the way, the brass ejects just fine and doesn't fly nearly as high.
 
So the new NEAR Manufacturing rail is here! Richard is definitely top notch. I was expecting a bit of a lead time but he must have had it in stock, he shipped the next day! I went with the SS 0 MOA rail. Fit and finish are perfect. Mounting was a breeze. Some sanding was involved but in the end I got a perfect custom fit. The rail is now fully seated, some of the pictures show a small gap. This thing is press fitted and fells welded in place. Best part was no screws and no drill and tap!

Big thanks to everyone who contributed, and especially Keith for making me discover a local gem!

Here are some pictures:

IMG_20170126_183005114_zpseju3g21c.jpg


IMG_20170126_183012416_zpsxrdsetef.jpg


IMG_20170126_190941068_zpsxvau7hxf.jpg


IMG_20170126_191125104_zpsmizptbps.jpg
 
You know, by the harsh laws of fits and tolerances, that thing shouldn't work. Glad it does! :)

So how is the ejection?!? What is the final scope height like?!? Details man!!!

:)
 
RangerPark said:
Funny you mention that, it's exactly what I did over the weekend. I now have a rail on order from NEAR Mfg, without anything in the way, the 85 ejects shells so hard one actually poked a small hole in my suspended ceiling. With a ruler in the way, the brass ejects just fine and doesn't fly nearly as high.
Click to expand...

Oh, by the way: put some electrical tape on the bottom of your new rail and windage turret. Ejecting brass knocked about $150 in resale value off my Elite 6500 first time I used it.
 
Bartledan said:
So how is the ejection?!? What is the final scope height like?!? Details man!!!
Click to expand...

Ejection is flawless. Without the rail I can make the dummies hit the ceiling. With the rail the shells fly at about head level and fall nicely to the side, not in the next time zone. Don't know how it dings empty cases yet, will know when I hit the range.

The rail adds about .335" in the front and .350" in the rear in height. That's from top of Sako dovetail to top of rail. I'm in the process of selecting rings for my setup, now that I have a rail to work with there are many more possibilities.
 
Bartledan said:
Oh, by the way: put some electrical tape on the bottom of your new rail and windage turret. Ejecting brass knocked about $150 in resale value off my Elite 6500 first time I used it.
Click to expand...

Glad it worked out for you ! Richard is a great guy . I've used both of mine for awhile now and the finish on mine is black and tough not a sign of the rebounding brass yet . He showed me a test trying to scratch one with a screwdriver on a scrap piece he had and no marks !!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom