PID Controllers - What do they cost?

I don't know the details of how a PID really learns to adapt to a device but I'm guessing that lowering the level and adding sprues or topping up will change its adapted settings.

Soon going to build a couple more so one can stay with the lead pot and others can be switched to powder coating or lube heating etc. It will be interesting to see if it becomes more accurate if left alone in one application.

Regardless of how you use it or even switch to different devices it's light years better than the crude knob that the Lee pot comes with.
 
Where can I source a connector block such that I can connect the thermocouple to the exterior of the PID/SSR housing?

I can probably find something on Amazon but sheesh some times that stuff takes for ever to be delivered. A month + for my long stem thermocouple so far.

M
 
Omega.ca stocks a wide variety of temperature instruments and connectors. But it is doubtful they will be faster or cheaper than Amazon.

For my PID trials thus far I used a short length of type K wire from the PID terminals to a standard mini-sized female thermocouple connector. All of my thermocouples terminate with a male mini-connector, so it's a snap to plug any thermocouple into my PID.
 
Where can I source a connector block such that I can connect the thermocouple to the exterior of the PID/SSR housing?

I can probably find something on Amazon but sheesh some times that stuff takes for ever to be delivered. A month + for my long stem thermocouple so far.

M

i wanted to get a proper connector to use different thermocouples but i just ended up using a panel mount 120v 2 prong plug (next to the PID in my picture) and a standard 120v 2 prong plug, no issues with it so far.
 
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Almost there. Waiting on a long stem thermocouple that appears to be on the slow boat from China before buttoning her up.

Had an old 6/9 volt power supply laying around from the slot car days (remember slot cars?), that provided a workable PID housing.

Setup seems to do a pretty good job of maintaining the temperature of a light bulb.

Cost a whole $30. Was a fun project and not at all difficult to piece together.

Question: Should this thing remember it's Auto Tune parameters or do you need to Auto Tune after each power up?

M

Don't worry about autotune, it will remember the temperature and keep the alloy within a couple of degrees.
I have turned auto tune off on a couple of PID units and haven't noticed any difference in alloy temperature, heat up time, or recovery time.
 
I’ve built a couple now. I wouldn’t sell one (turn key) for under $200.....

I spend more time and effort making the container look real nice compact and pretty than anything else. I probably put 10hrs into one.... You really don’t need the box, but it is nice.....

The wiring is dead nuts easy. Follow the diagram and you’re GTG.

After you replace the SSR (because they heat up and then pop), you’ll realise the $3 saved by not getting the heat sink just cost ya a $15 SSR.

Cheers
 
I’ve built a couple now. I wouldn’t sell one (turn key) for under $200.....

I spend more time and effort making the container look real nice compact and pretty than anything else. I probably put 10hrs into one.... You really don’t need the box, but it is nice.....

The wiring is dead nuts easy. Follow the diagram and you’re GTG.

After you replace the SSR (because they heat up and then pop), you’ll realise the $3 saved by not getting the heat sink just cost ya a $15 SSR.

Cheers

I buy 40 Amp SSRs in bulk direct from China for about $3 each (Or less) Never had one fail
 
I buy 40 Amp SSRs in bulk direct from China for about $3 each (Or less) Never had one fail

even without the heatsink?

As i said before grab any tossed out pc you see and you will have alot of good parts in there for free including an oversized heatsink for the SSR.
 
even without the heatsink?

As i said before grab any tossed out pc you see and you will have alot of good parts in there for free including an oversized heatsink for the SSR.

I have run 40 amp SSRs without a heat sink for hours on a 20 lb lead pot. They don't get much more than a little warm to the touch.
Put them in a metal computer power supply box and you cant feel any heat at all from the part of the box they are bolted to.
 
Well.. my long stem thermocouple was finally delivered (only 40 days in transit from China via AirMail?), and I got a chance to try the whole thing out.

These things are the cat's ass for maintaining melt temperature:d

Two things I did notice though.

1. I had to set the PID Celsius setting at 360 in order to maintain a 650 F (according to my analog thermometer)?

2. The thermocouple did not feed back well when the pot level got low. Not a big deal.

Over all I'm very pleased and consider the project well worth while.

M
 
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When I see discrepencies between two instruments the first thing I check is to see if one of them is touching the bottom of the pot. The Lee heating elements are in the pot sides, so the bottom runs several degrees cooler. But I wouldn't be surprised to learn a bimetallic thermometer is off by 15 degrees.
 
Well.. my long stem thermocouple was finally delivered (only 40 days in transit from China via AirMail?), and I got a chance to try the whole thing out.

These things are the cat's ass for maintaining melt temperature:d

Two things I did notice though.

1. I had to set the PID Celsius setting at 360 in order to maintain a 650 F (according to my analog thermometer)?

2. The thermocouple did not feed back well when the pot level got low. Not a big deal.

Over all I'm very pleased and consider the project well worth while.

M

My PID has the option of switching to Fahrenheit. I still have trouble with "communist degrees".
 
Man..... has this thing ever increased my casting yield!!!! Chasing the temperature around was really hurting the quality of my casts. I was culling 1/4-1/3 of my throws.

M
 
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