PID lead pot controller
- Thread starter ryan
- Start date
Very useful!
i built my own from parts off ebay ($50ish total) and installed it in an old pc power supply. since using it i've never had a frosted bullet, not that frosted bullets are all that bad. i keep my lead at 380c (that's the only crappy part about my pid controller is it's only in celsius) and it typically stays within 5 degree's of the set point. most are better controlled but i throw my sprue back into the pot. all i need is a PID controlled hot plate and i would get perfect pours on the first casting, but i don't care enough to buy one just yet.
i used an old CPU heatsink for the SSR for cooling, mine is massively oversized and barely gets warm.
i had a sensor in the bottom of the pot touching the spout, but got a submersible probe and leave in the pot as you can see below.
well worth the money when building your own, i would buy a premade one but i can build my own so why bother.
i built my own from parts off ebay ($50ish total) and installed it in an old pc power supply. since using it i've never had a frosted bullet, not that frosted bullets are all that bad. i keep my lead at 380c (that's the only crappy part about my pid controller is it's only in celsius) and it typically stays within 5 degree's of the set point. most are better controlled but i throw my sprue back into the pot. all i need is a PID controlled hot plate and i would get perfect pours on the first casting, but i don't care enough to buy one just yet.
i used an old CPU heatsink for the SSR for cooling, mine is massively oversized and barely gets warm.
i had a sensor in the bottom of the pot touching the spout, but got a submersible probe and leave in the pot as you can see below.
well worth the money when building your own, i would buy a premade one but i can build my own so why bother.
I use cast iron single cavity molds, so I have no issues with frosted bullets, the opposite in fact. I pre- heat my mold on a hot plate for at least 20 minutes before it's hot enough to cast. What with adding reject bullets and sprues back in, I am forever fiddling with the thermostat.
With a PID, I'm sure I could get more done in a casting session.
With a PID, I'm sure I could get more done in a casting session.
Could someone break down what's being done here? I know nothing about anything electronic, but this interests me. I've got a premade pot but eventually I'll want a second larger setup so this might be suitable?
Simple controller. Connect a power source, controller, thermocoupler, solid state relay and your pot. The controller will not only show you the current temperature of your alloy but you can set it and it will maintain the temperature within a few degrees
To add to what yomomma said the controller will learn how your pot heats up. It's basically someone watching your pot and turning the power on and off to maintain the temp you set it to. It learns that turning the pot on for x amount of seconds will raise the temp x amount of degrees.
I also use my homemade PID controller to control my lyman luber for the perfect flow rate for my different lubes. As a side note I also use it for my weber smokey mountain smoker to control the temp of the coals with a fan that turns on and off. I bought a bunch of temp probes (thermocouples) and just leave them mounted to what I want controlled. I even use it to control my crock pot, I put the roast in the pot, put a probe into the meat , put the lid on and plug the pot into the PID and set pot to high and set the temp to 145 f. When I get home from work the roast is perfect.
You can get most of the parts from China through Amazon....somewhere around $50
http://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Displa...942234&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+controller
I use my PID for doing Cerakote, hot box for epoxy and for my lead pot for casting bullets and my toaster oven for doing powder coat. I have not used it to control the families crock pot yet but it's coming (with a different probe). Once you have used one you can't do without. It is very rare when it's off one degree.
