Pine tar wood finish on a Mosin

O

oldguner

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
113   0   1
Location
Alberta
so over the Christmas break I brewed some traditional, Finnish wood finish, the recipe is 1/3 pin tar, 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 wood wax, like bees wax, bring it to a boil, and I had a generic unfired Mosin that looked like it had a buetful wood under the shellac, so I used furniture stripper to remove the finish, and to keep the wood untouched, I like the look and feel of it, now the question is do I keep it or sell it?, here are some pics, sorry some came out a little blurry

 
Looks good. I keep going back to true oil, love that stuff. I'm waiting for it to warm up outside to start rebluing an m38 that I have so I don't make a mess inside or freeze my hands off and make a skating rink outside using the hose.

I like the look of this rifle stock. Better than the shellac/cosmo cover they arrive with.
 
I have tried tru oil, shellac, tung oil, two part lacquer, marine varnish, and lastly the pine tar, I probably prefer shellac for a glossier finish and pine tar for a matt finish
 
1/3 pine tar, 1/3 mineral spirits, 1/3 BLO absorbs better than the wax mix did, for me anyway. I did an old SKS stock that ended up a patchwork of finishes as I experimented.
 
How was the shellac experience? I found a company here in Canada that sells garnet and dark garnet coloured shellac, which appears to be pretty close to the red tint on the Russian stocks. The amber shellac at crappy tire is way too light! I was thinking of removing the battered and beaten shellac on a mosin and reapplying fresh coat. I know that modern shellac is "dewaxed", wonder if the Russians used the old wax shellac (hence tougher finish?).

oldguner said:
I have tried tru oil, shellac, tung oil, two part lacquer, marine varnish, and lastly the pine tar, I probably prefer shellac for a glossier finish and pine tar for a matt finish
Click to expand...
 
Looks good.

I seen so many differnt finishes on them around here there is no reason not to redo them and store em. I had one where the shellac would rub off by hand and you would get big flakes jammed underneath your finger nail. The others you could tell the whole danm gun was dipped in shellac sometimes even the bands and receiver got shellac on em.

Rather have a nice shellac Finnish then a garbage one.

IMO as long as its shellac, its original Finnish. Not like the armory shellac is somthing special. If anything they do a garbage job with it.
 
CanadianBaconPancakes said:
Looks good.

I seen so many differnt finishes on them around here there is no reason not to redo them and store em. I had one where the shellac would rub off by hand and you would get big flakes jammed underneath your finger nail. The others you could tell the whole danm gun was dipped in shellac sometimes even the bands and receiver got shellac on em.

Rather have a nice shellac Finnish then a garbage one.

IMO as long as its shellac, its original Finnish. Not like the armory shellac is somthing special. If anything they do a garbage job with it.
Click to expand...

Its very easy to tell what is an old armory shellac finish. I'm not trying to lecture.............and I'm not even sure if that will be desirable or collectible down the road, but I suspect it will be.
 
Irons78 said:
How was the shellac experience? I found a company here in Canada that sells garnet and dark garnet coloured shellac, which appears to be pretty close to the red tint on the Russian stocks. The amber shellac at crappy tire is way too light! I was thinking of removing the battered and beaten shellac on a mosin and reapplying fresh coat. I know that modern shellac is "dewaxed", wonder if the Russians used the old wax shellac (hence tougher finish?).
Click to expand...

If you only strip the shellac with acetone you can leave the mosins original wood color ( pretty dark under there ) then apply some BLO followed by amber shellac. BLO will darken over years and the shellac should yellow abit.

It should get you a nice dark cleaner color like this if you do it without drawing out all the woods original oils

IMG_0069.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]




Or like this





Or this





 
yes, the mosins are drying up. In the states, they are all selling over $300 now. When the current ones run out here, expect a price hike.

As for the finish "rifle stock oil", the real stuff has no pine tar in it at all.

Over on GB, someone found the original mix in a finnish manual and it was translated as follows:

Ingredients: BLO, naphta, bitumen (roofing asphalt is usually made of bitumen) and red iron oxyde for punamulta

Start by diluting the bitumen in naphta until it has the consistency of milk. Add BLO to it making sure that the overal color of the mix remain pitch black. If you mix in a glass vessel, the liquid should look black but the deposits on the side of the glass should appear dark brown. Mix a tiny amount of red oxyde with blo and mix super carefully. You don't want a paste. Add naphta until the red is like milk as well. Add little by little to the other mix, testing the color on scrap wood each time.

The guys experimented and came up with:

2g of red oxyde
8g volumes of bitumen
110g of BLO
30g of thinner or Turpentine for thinning the bitumen

for a result of 150g of Rifle Stock Oil

Personally, I would recommend turpentine over napthalene. Naptha has benzen in it, a known carcinogen.
 
Claven2 said:
As for the finish "rifle stock oil", the real stuff has no pine tar in it at all.

Over on GB, someone found the original mix in a finnish manual and it was translated as follows:

Ingredients: BLO, naphta, bitumen (roofing asphalt is usually made of bitumen) and red iron oxyde for punamulta
Click to expand...

^^^^^ This ^^^^^^.
Forget about pine tar, it's an old myth. No one ever was able to prove the use of pine tar by Finns, no documents, no references, nothing.
 
Horilka said:
^^^^^ This ^^^^^^.
Forget about pine tar, it's an old myth. No one ever was able to prove the use of pine tar by Finns, no documents, no references, nothing.
Click to expand...

Meh.

Not everyone's actually interested in facts. There's a reason I don't post real information as often as I used to.
 
I think I can speak for everyone in this thread when I thank you appreciate that you took the time posting the real deal formula! I'm very interested in facts! Only reality here is: I think pine tar is discussed and used because it kinda sorta makes the stock look similar to "original". It's just a wee bit easier to use an available inexpensive alternative that you can get at the local tack shop than to try and find red oxide or bitumen, and cook up naptha in the garage!

Claven2 said:
Meh.

Not everyone's actually interested in facts. There's a reason I don't post real information as often as I used to.
Click to expand...
 
Start by diluting the bitumen in naphta until it has the consistency of milk. Add BLO to it making sure that the overal color of the mix remain pitch black. If you mix in a glass vessel, the liquid should look black but the deposits on the side of the glass should appear dark brown. Mix a tiny amount of red oxyde with blo and mix super carefully. You don't want a paste. Add naphta until the red is like milk as well. Add little by little to the other mix, testing the color on scrap wood each time.
Click to expand...

Long day or I'm confused!

In adding the red oxide to BLO and naphtha as a separate mixture,,,,, are you using part of the original formula weights listed or am I reading this wrong.

Also is roofing asphalt that is made of bitumen not at around 70% bitumen.

Can roofing asphalt be used?

I am very interested in this also.

Thanks for your help, Claven2, very much appreciated.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom