pinning a 10/22 bolt?

A

archerynut

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hey gang! so I am on my second 10/22 project gun. at the present time, I have my Dlask receiver and green mountain bbl at the gunsmith. its a .920 bbl but I am having a 3/8" dovetail added to the barrel to allow me to mount open sights. I don't like scopes. the bolt for this project came from Wham-o(thanks Kelly!). I replaced the guts of the bolt with a tactical innovations firing pin and a tactical solutions extractor. the trigger group I am currently using also has a power custom adjustable sear, TI trigger and magazine release. all good and well right? at the range when I first had the chance to put some rounds through the gun, I was getting good results, but every few rounds, I would pull the trigger and nothing. pop out the offending round to see if the priming was bad. to my surprise, there was no mark whatsoever, so its not a bad primer or weak firing pin(replaced the stock spring with the TI kit spring) my observance leads me to the conclusion that the pin is missing the mark. will pinning my bolt stop this? how would I go about doing this? I have a drill press and stuff at my disposal. just don't want to go punching holes in my bolt without actually knowing what I am doing. so, how do I pin my bolt? anyone who has done this before, your observations would be most helpful. thanks
 
I asked some of those questions a while back.
Here is the thread you might find informative.

My understanding is that the pinned bolt helps to keep the firing pin strike more consistent.
If yours is missing the rim completely you might have a bigger problem.
 
The tiny bit required to drill the cross-pin hole in the case hardened bolt is very easy to break. DAMHIKT.
Look into headspacing. I was able to do this on a stationary belt sander (disk would work, too) and haven't had a light strike since.
 
ive build 4 10/22's over the last couple winters and i cringed when i saw that you put Tactical Innovation parts in your gun.

at first i was all over their stuff, then i started having problems and faults, now ive gone so far as to pull every TI part off of each of my guns.... and now they all run flawlessly.

im not sure what the problem is with their stuff but im not the only one who is now blacklisting their stuff.

just thought id mention it.
 
rifleman - thanks for the link to that particular thread. I started this thread because I could not find the one you linked to. many sincere thanks! food for thought I guess

aaron v - my bolt closes completely 99% of the time. the only time it has trouble closing on a live round is A)if my chamber is really dirty and B)if I am using Remington thunderduds, which seem to have a case diameter just large enough to cause problems. also, today while shooting at the CSC, I was shooting some Federal HV match stuff, and was having issues with both stovepiping and the round dragging on its way into the chamber. enough that I had to help the bolt forward until I heard the click of the extractor on the case rim. all the other stuff I was shooting today - CCI Blazer, CCI RN, Winchester SuperX HV stuff and some Fiocchi sub-sonic - was mostly trouble free. just as a side note, the CCI-made Blazer was amazingly accurate. this isn't the wax coated bulk, but the stuff in the 50 rnd. boxes. I was consistently able to put 10 rounds at a range of 75ft into the space of a nickel. with open sights. it was fun!

gwilder - when you talk about headspacing, or reducing of headspacing, this is done from the bolt right, not the chamber end of the barrel right? to be honest, the bolt I am using in this gun right now, is not the one that came with the gun. I wonder what my results would be if I switched back to the original bolt, which is filled with VQ parts, as opposed to TI.

wayupnorth - problems and faults eh? anything like what I am experiencing? to be sure, when I get a good firing pin strike, it is strong enough to actually deform the case rim. but other times, for no explainable reason, I am pulling the trigger, hearing the click but getting no ignition. then after waiting for the possibility of a hang-fire, I pop the round out to find the rim un-marred. just for the record, this is not a problem I have with another bolt equipped with VQ internals. maybe you and others are onto something. anyone wanna do a strait-up trade? VQ for some TI internals?
 
Yes, headspacing on a 10/22 is done on the bolt. You might want to measure the headspace on both bolts you have, as well as the firing pin protrusion. You'd need to be able to measure this to perform the headspace job anyway, so it's a good place to start. I've re-radiused the rear of the bolt and polished it and the firing pin, too. The eats and cycles everything I've tried over 900fps so far, so I'm quite happy with it. I did have to change from the stock extractor, though. You might want to try the VQ on the bolt with the TI parts to see if that helps with the stovepiping.
 
Pinning your firing pin is a waste of time. In my opinion of course.

If you want to 'try it' and see if it makes any difference (didn't for me) - simply hammer a piece of lead shot into the firing pin channel, juuuust deep enough so the firing pin still moves front/back, but not up/down.... it'd not permanent, but will do the same thing as putting a pin through the bolt.

Made zero difference that I could see. :)
 
canucklehead - this actually does not sound like a bad idea as far as a "proof of concept" thing goes. the thing I am kind of worried about is the peice of lead shot being jarred loose during the recoil phase of actually firing the gun. but I am still getting click - no bang - no firing pin imprint
gwilder is suggesting swapping out the TI parts for the VQ parts on my other bolt, which I will probably do today. I have a Dlask receiver and a Green Mountain barrel at the Calgary Shooting Centre right now having the barrel mounted and dovetails added for a front sight, so both of my bolts will have a home soon, I just need to figure out which is going to be the "good bolt" and which is going to be "the other bolt"

thanks for the input so far gents. very much appreciated.
 
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