Pistol barrel shortened and reverse crowned-how to

1ronM@n

1ronM@n

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Hi there,

Looking for a bit of advice.

I'd like to get my Beretta 92 barrel shorten and have the reverse crown done to it " a la " Wilson Combat.
I prefer the look to what my Elite ii crown looks like.

Do it myself or get a gunsmith and if so how or how much , lol

I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

:)
 
Maybe it is just the picture but that simply looks like a flat crown. I don't know why the term 'reverse' is used. The amount of degree that is cut would be a better description.
 
Yes, sir
That's what I'd like.
Can I ask how long and how much it cost you ?
PM me if you like

image.jpg

This is the Wilson Combat version ... me likey


Thanks
 

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Ahhhh... the old 11 degree crown... supposed to help stability at 2000 yards... or some other drivel like that...
 
lmh1022 said:
So what is the ideal crown for a hand gun barrel and a rifle barrel...accuracy wise ??
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There is no ideal crown. As long as the transition where the bullet leaves contact with the barrel is concentric and burr free accuracy is optimal. I prefer 'finishing' the crowning process with a piloted 60 degree chamfer reamer. It leaves a perfect 'edge' and isn't so sharp as to being easily damaged.
 
so basically any lathe cut finish with a recess to prevent easy damage to that edge of the bore is what is required ? I don't have any piloted chamfer reamers that would work for that but I have a couple lathes
 
1ronM@n said:
Hi there,

Looking for a bit of advice.

I'd like to get my Beretta 92 barrel shorten and have the reverse crown done to it " a la " Wilson Combat.
I prefer the look to what my Elite ii crown looks like.

Do it myself or get a gunsmith and if so how or how much , lol

I would appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

:)
Click to expand...

Brownells sells a hand cutter for shortening and crowning pistols barrels, I used one on a norc 1911 once and it works good but you need to take your time with it.
 
tharkhold said:
Wow.. I think I'll have mine done by pro in Ottawa for that price.. :)
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Yeah not cheap,there was a guy from my range that one that I rented off him for a deposit. If you only plan on doing 1 get a Smith to do it since tool price usually will make or break a home project.
 
It's just a preference for the look. I have and had multiple Berettas over the years and would like to modify one to my preferences.

Mine as it stands :

elitecrown.jpg

What I want :

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I found this : w ww.shootingtimes.com/gunsmithing/cutting-crowning-a-barrel-with-hand-tools/ as a example
And what you need a kit from Brownell that someone mentioned earlier called : brownell rifle pistol muzzle & cylinders facing and chambering tools
and-crowning-barrel-cutting-2.jpg

So now it's either have it done or do it myself but seems more viable to have it done, it seems.

Then everything will be right in the world ... till my next project ;)
 

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1ronM@n said:
It's just a preference for the look. I have and had multiple Berettas over the years and would like to modify one to my preferences.

Mine as it stands :

View attachment 152287

What I want :

View attachment 152288
View attachment 152289
View attachment 152290


I found this : w ww.shootingtimes.com/gunsmithing/cutting-crowning-a-barrel-with-hand-tools/ as a example
And what you need a kit from Brownell that someone mentioned earlier called : brownell rifle pistol muzzle & cylinders facing and chambering tools
View attachment 152298

So now it's either have it done or do it myself but seems more viable to have it done, it seems.

Then everything will be right in the world ... till my next project ;)
Click to expand...

I always laugh when I see 'precision' and 'hacksaw' in the same context :)
 
lmh1022 said:
so basically any lathe cut finish with a recess to prevent easy damage to that edge of the bore is what is required ? I don't have any piloted chamfer reamers that would work for that but I have a couple lathes
Click to expand...

It requires a very smooth cut with a very sharp high speed steel tool, not a carbide tool... and carefully polished with 320 wet/dry paper, then 400 wet/dry paper in both directions. Stay out of the rifling. When all finished wipe in and out with a cue tip... it should not catch on any edges anywhere.
 
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