as far as grub things bring what ever you like to eat but try to get stuff that won't spoil fast.drinks we always have a few cases of water, club soda, juice boxes,different sodas,v8 or tomato juice.i also make sure that i have a few packs of chewing gum in my bag,i'm always chewing it when ever i go walking help keep the thirst down.on stand i like to have a few big ass bags of sunflower seeds with me to help druring the time when nothing is moving i also have a crossword book in my bag for same purpose
Planning my first moose hunt, a few questions.
- Thread starter cereal83
- Start date
Well at least it will be cold in november. That will help.
Do your self a real favor hunt only along roads and don't hunt at dusk for your first animal. If you shoot your calf near a road in the morning the odds are in your favor for it being a positive experience.
Being inexperienced, tired and in the dark is a recipe for injury and spoiled meat.
bring lots of clean old sheets to wrap meat in (wash with no soap).
If the calf is down near a road you will also have the huge advantage of being able to easily bring water to the job, water is your best friend if you discover you have a cavity full of sh*t, piss and stomach content. even if you keep the icky stuff off your meat lots and lots of water will insure top quality meat.
Just make sure you dry as you wash.
Every hair that lays on the meat leaves a taste.
oh and for god sake do not cut the spine parrelell to it's length! You will ruin the best bone in roasts in the world. Nothing is as good as moose cooked in it's own spinal marrow.
When it comes to gutting moose you need one boss and one helper. ONE KNIFE. Take your time.
Who would want a bull tag if calfs are open???
Do your self a real favor hunt only along roads and don't hunt at dusk for your first animal. If you shoot your calf near a road in the morning the odds are in your favor for it being a positive experience.
Being inexperienced, tired and in the dark is a recipe for injury and spoiled meat.
bring lots of clean old sheets to wrap meat in (wash with no soap).
If the calf is down near a road you will also have the huge advantage of being able to easily bring water to the job, water is your best friend if you discover you have a cavity full of sh*t, piss and stomach content. even if you keep the icky stuff off your meat lots and lots of water will insure top quality meat.
Just make sure you dry as you wash.
Every hair that lays on the meat leaves a taste.
oh and for god sake do not cut the spine parrelell to it's length! You will ruin the best bone in roasts in the world. Nothing is as good as moose cooked in it's own spinal marrow.
When it comes to gutting moose you need one boss and one helper. ONE KNIFE. Take your time.
Who would want a bull tag if calfs are open???
Last edited:
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
You can borrow my rifle 
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Hey, proof why backup sights are a must
Cereal, I started just like you.
Nobody to teach me, no-one to learn from.
Some things I've learned the hard way, some the easier.... form the other hunters.
Here are some hints that hve helped me along the way.
1. sleep in your car, rather then in a tent. Here;s why: you can start the car, make some nice warm-iness before you make eyes in the morning. Cheap. No stove, no waterproofing, no mess. What do you drive might affect this decision. My van did good for the first few hunts.
2. buy milsurp gear. Cheap and good. PM me for details.
3. Boots - go for Goretex. Insulated and with a solit ankle support.
4. the regular cooking camp. A small propane BBQ will make you happy. The camping stull is waaay to expensive and not really a space saver.
Food to ear on the run ? MREs . PM me for details
5. Do not run out of ammo. Mid week hunting you decide the rifle is out of whack and resighting in is a PITA... the scope came loose. 20 rounds later you only get again on the paper..... Cleaning gear? OTIS or sheath packs form birchwood. Give your gear a good wipe on every afternoon. Condoms for muzzle.
get a shottie or a 22lr for Grouse and a main rifle with scope AND irons. bring the wrenches to remove the scope/bases in a hurry. The stock wrappers with ammo holders and a little pocket for these wrenches are ideal. Do not get too many rifles. You're lucky IF you get to use yours once.
6. Just the basics. Do not bring what you can;t use. No surgical kits either. If you need one, you're a goner already. Sorry, but is true.
7. GPS. Pack batteries. In all your packs/ jackets/ pants. Learn to use it at least two weeks before. A good map will help, and a good compass a must. Take a reading beforea heading in the bush , untill you know your way around the area. I had good experience with the Explorist 200/300.
8. One good knife un your belt all the times. Another one (smaller) in a pocket. Saw or hatchet in the car/camp.
things you forgot:
Warmers. They are cheap insurance for bad weather. The 12 hrs one will remind you of home.... The smaller ones are only good for gloves.
Tarp. Disposable gloves. Many.
A bunch of clean rags. A flashlight with spare bulb AND a headlight (LED). You will need both hands to gut the baby moose.
rain poncho.
The orange vest will not keep you warm.
Nor will the cap for that matter.
The morning coffee is the best indicator for a moose that you are hunting ... Do yourself a favor and don;t take any in the thermos.
Consider sleeping at a motel. I know is not like the real thing, but November and Sudbury make me shiver when mentioned in the same sentence. Do not compare yourself with the locals.
A walkie-talkie might be good if you hunt with a buddy.
Satellite phones are for fly-in trips.
I hope these help..... good luck.
Nobody to teach me, no-one to learn from.
Some things I've learned the hard way, some the easier.... form the other hunters.
Here are some hints that hve helped me along the way.
1. sleep in your car, rather then in a tent. Here;s why: you can start the car, make some nice warm-iness before you make eyes in the morning. Cheap. No stove, no waterproofing, no mess. What do you drive might affect this decision. My van did good for the first few hunts.
2. buy milsurp gear. Cheap and good. PM me for details.
3. Boots - go for Goretex. Insulated and with a solit ankle support.
4. the regular cooking camp. A small propane BBQ will make you happy. The camping stull is waaay to expensive and not really a space saver.
Food to ear on the run ? MREs . PM me for details
5. Do not run out of ammo. Mid week hunting you decide the rifle is out of whack and resighting in is a PITA... the scope came loose. 20 rounds later you only get again on the paper..... Cleaning gear? OTIS or sheath packs form birchwood. Give your gear a good wipe on every afternoon. Condoms for muzzle.
get a shottie or a 22lr for Grouse and a main rifle with scope AND irons. bring the wrenches to remove the scope/bases in a hurry. The stock wrappers with ammo holders and a little pocket for these wrenches are ideal. Do not get too many rifles. You're lucky IF you get to use yours once.
6. Just the basics. Do not bring what you can;t use. No surgical kits either. If you need one, you're a goner already. Sorry, but is true.
7. GPS. Pack batteries. In all your packs/ jackets/ pants. Learn to use it at least two weeks before. A good map will help, and a good compass a must. Take a reading beforea heading in the bush , untill you know your way around the area. I had good experience with the Explorist 200/300.
8. One good knife un your belt all the times. Another one (smaller) in a pocket. Saw or hatchet in the car/camp.
things you forgot:
Warmers. They are cheap insurance for bad weather. The 12 hrs one will remind you of home.... The smaller ones are only good for gloves.
Tarp. Disposable gloves. Many.
A bunch of clean rags. A flashlight with spare bulb AND a headlight (LED). You will need both hands to gut the baby moose.
rain poncho.
The orange vest will not keep you warm.
Nor will the cap for that matter.
The morning coffee is the best indicator for a moose that you are hunting ... Do yourself a favor and don;t take any in the thermos.
Consider sleeping at a motel. I know is not like the real thing, but November and Sudbury make me shiver when mentioned in the same sentence. Do not compare yourself with the locals.
A walkie-talkie might be good if you hunt with a buddy.
Satellite phones are for fly-in trips.
I hope these help..... good luck.
Last edited:
Well here are my suggestions from experience:
1. Forget the chainsaw with vegetable oil. That's old school. It will put too much bone pieces into the meat. Everyone I know, including our camp, use battery reciprocating saws. Makes short work of splitting the animal in two, when it's hanging. Hang it from the hind legs, not the head. That way, when you start splitting it from the top down, gravity will help.
2. Boots. Yep, buy the best you can afford. For us in the Northern Ontario swamps, a good ankle fit knee high rubber boot. Not those sloppy hardware store ones. This is what you want:
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...20830&type=pod&cmCat=0518_d_archfootwear-home
3. You don't need fancy clothes. just warm. An old ski parka and rain pants will do. If you don't have a hunting coat yet, than I would NOT buy an all orange suit. I would buy a camo waterproof breathable 4 in 1 parka and bib pants. Look at Wal-Mart. They have a Remington 4 in 1 and pants. The parka is $99. Excellent coat for the money. Then add an orange vest and orange cap & toque. That way, if you go waterfowling someday or bow hunt, you have camo to wear.
4. A backpack for when your out hunting for your gear. You can take off add clothes as the weather changes. Add powerbars, trail mix, juice boxes, toilet paper, compass, FRS radio, GPS, map, whistle, lighter etc.
5. A pack of unscented baby wipes is nice to have at camp if you're not going to be showering for a few days.
6. Long underwear. I wear a one piece wool/polyester blend. NO COTTON! When cotton gets wet it stays wet.
7. You will have your work cut out for you if you get a moose. When the moose is down, that's when the work starts. Without an atv, you will have to quarter it. You could lash together some small poplars and make a sled/stretcher like thing and a couple of you could drag it back to camp in a couple of trips.
I still remember my first trip. Froze my @ss off! And loved every minute of it.
Good luck!
1. Forget the chainsaw with vegetable oil. That's old school. It will put too much bone pieces into the meat. Everyone I know, including our camp, use battery reciprocating saws. Makes short work of splitting the animal in two, when it's hanging. Hang it from the hind legs, not the head. That way, when you start splitting it from the top down, gravity will help.
2. Boots. Yep, buy the best you can afford. For us in the Northern Ontario swamps, a good ankle fit knee high rubber boot. Not those sloppy hardware store ones. This is what you want:
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...20830&type=pod&cmCat=0518_d_archfootwear-home
3. You don't need fancy clothes. just warm. An old ski parka and rain pants will do. If you don't have a hunting coat yet, than I would NOT buy an all orange suit. I would buy a camo waterproof breathable 4 in 1 parka and bib pants. Look at Wal-Mart. They have a Remington 4 in 1 and pants. The parka is $99. Excellent coat for the money. Then add an orange vest and orange cap & toque. That way, if you go waterfowling someday or bow hunt, you have camo to wear.
4. A backpack for when your out hunting for your gear. You can take off add clothes as the weather changes. Add powerbars, trail mix, juice boxes, toilet paper, compass, FRS radio, GPS, map, whistle, lighter etc.
5. A pack of unscented baby wipes is nice to have at camp if you're not going to be showering for a few days.
6. Long underwear. I wear a one piece wool/polyester blend. NO COTTON! When cotton gets wet it stays wet.
7. You will have your work cut out for you if you get a moose. When the moose is down, that's when the work starts. Without an atv, you will have to quarter it. You could lash together some small poplars and make a sled/stretcher like thing and a couple of you could drag it back to camp in a couple of trips.
I still remember my first trip. Froze my @ss off! And loved every minute of it.
Good luck!
A word about 'warm clothing'.
I've seen this before - in fear of freezing a guy buys the heaviest sweaters he can find, the heaviest jackets he can find, the heaviest pants etc etc.
Then he cooks his ass off when it turns out to be a mild day and he's hiking
Or he's bundled like the michilin man above the waist, and is still freezing because he just has one layer on below
Learn to layer. This is critical. You will stay warm and dry if you master this art, you will freeze and/or cook if you do not.
You have your 'wicking layer' against your skin - the layer that is designed to move sweat away from your body and to keep your skin nice and comfortable. Then you have your thermal layer - the heat retainers and such. Then you have your 'weather layer' so to speak - the outer layer which will protect you against wind and rain.
For the inner layer - look for synthetic long underwear. Use seperate tops and bottoms, not one peice jump suits. (trust me.)
For your thermal layer - you can buy cheap fleece sweaters and vests just about anywhere. These can be extremely effective. Avoid anything cotton or down, just stick with the synthetics. Remember - you're better to have a couple thicknesses to choose from so you can adjust to the temperatures you find up there. Some people use 'jogging pants' made of synthetics as a thermal layer under their pants and over their longjohns for really cold days, although often just good longjohns under your pants is enough.
For your outer layer, wool pants are probably the best 'cheap' alternative out there. Avoid anything with cotton. 100 percent wool can be a little itchy on days where it's too warm for your longjohns, but most wool these days have just a little bit of synthetic in them or have liners, which make them quite comfortable. Wool will stay warm even when wet.
For your jacket outer layer, here's where you run into a little problem. You need something QUIET. You do NOT need something camo btw - but quiet is a must. The problem is that 'quiet' and 'waterproof' rarely go together. The best you're likley to do is water 'resistant', unless you spend some money.
Wool jackets are quiet (but heavy), saddlecloth is pretty good - For many years we hunted in nothing more than fleece outer jackets sprayed with a little scotchguard to help make 'em more moisture resistant. I'm told these days you can buy stuff to treat fleece to make it very water resistant.
To determine how quiet something is - scratch at it with your nails. If you hear a loud 'scratch' like you do when scratching nylon, forget it. The animals will hear you a long way off. If it's quiet, like an animals hide might be, then you're fine.
Your jacket does NOT need to be super thick or insulated, but it should be large enough that you can fit a couple of heavy fleece shirts or vest on under it.
A cheap 30 dollar rubber foldaway poncho can give you an extra layer for if it's REALLY raining out. That way your main clothes don't have to be super water proof, if it starts to pour then you go to the poncho, and for light rain or drizzle your clothes are fine.
NOTE - You do NOT need camo. Camo is HIGHLY overrated. Nice when you can afford it, but otherwise don't even think about it. Manufacturers feel it they put the word 'hunting' or 'camo' in clothing then can jack the prices.
Anything in green or red is good. Avoid blues - they can see blue. Red just looks like more green to them.
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES WASH YOUR HUNTING CLOTHES WITH STANDARD LAUNDRY DETERGENT.
All laundry detergents today have 'brighteners' - which will make you stand out to game animals at dawn and dusk. Use baking soda, or one of the many 'hunters' laundry detergents available with no brighteners.
If you look around, you can probably put your whole clothing package together (except boots) for about 200 bucks with spares. You probably have some of this stuff already. Some things like longjohns you can order over the web - they're 'streachy' so you don't need a precise size. That'll help you find a 'good deal'. Check out places like marks work warehouse as well for 'work pants' and stuff, sometimes they have deals. Costco is a great place for cheap fleece. Look for turlenecks, heavy sweaters, and vests - that and a thermal underlayer and decent jacket will let you adjust to any weather, from warm to below freezing. Get thick pants and good bottoms for your longjohns - if it's warm skip the longjohns and put less on your top.
Hope some of this helps.
I've seen this before - in fear of freezing a guy buys the heaviest sweaters he can find, the heaviest jackets he can find, the heaviest pants etc etc.
Then he cooks his ass off when it turns out to be a mild day and he's hiking
Or he's bundled like the michilin man above the waist, and is still freezing because he just has one layer on below
Learn to layer. This is critical. You will stay warm and dry if you master this art, you will freeze and/or cook if you do not.
You have your 'wicking layer' against your skin - the layer that is designed to move sweat away from your body and to keep your skin nice and comfortable. Then you have your thermal layer - the heat retainers and such. Then you have your 'weather layer' so to speak - the outer layer which will protect you against wind and rain.
For the inner layer - look for synthetic long underwear. Use seperate tops and bottoms, not one peice jump suits. (trust me.)
For your thermal layer - you can buy cheap fleece sweaters and vests just about anywhere. These can be extremely effective. Avoid anything cotton or down, just stick with the synthetics. Remember - you're better to have a couple thicknesses to choose from so you can adjust to the temperatures you find up there. Some people use 'jogging pants' made of synthetics as a thermal layer under their pants and over their longjohns for really cold days, although often just good longjohns under your pants is enough.
For your outer layer, wool pants are probably the best 'cheap' alternative out there. Avoid anything with cotton. 100 percent wool can be a little itchy on days where it's too warm for your longjohns, but most wool these days have just a little bit of synthetic in them or have liners, which make them quite comfortable. Wool will stay warm even when wet.
For your jacket outer layer, here's where you run into a little problem. You need something QUIET. You do NOT need something camo btw - but quiet is a must. The problem is that 'quiet' and 'waterproof' rarely go together. The best you're likley to do is water 'resistant', unless you spend some money.
Wool jackets are quiet (but heavy), saddlecloth is pretty good - For many years we hunted in nothing more than fleece outer jackets sprayed with a little scotchguard to help make 'em more moisture resistant. I'm told these days you can buy stuff to treat fleece to make it very water resistant.
To determine how quiet something is - scratch at it with your nails. If you hear a loud 'scratch' like you do when scratching nylon, forget it. The animals will hear you a long way off. If it's quiet, like an animals hide might be, then you're fine.
Your jacket does NOT need to be super thick or insulated, but it should be large enough that you can fit a couple of heavy fleece shirts or vest on under it.
A cheap 30 dollar rubber foldaway poncho can give you an extra layer for if it's REALLY raining out. That way your main clothes don't have to be super water proof, if it starts to pour then you go to the poncho, and for light rain or drizzle your clothes are fine.
NOTE - You do NOT need camo. Camo is HIGHLY overrated. Nice when you can afford it, but otherwise don't even think about it. Manufacturers feel it they put the word 'hunting' or 'camo' in clothing then can jack the prices.
Anything in green or red is good. Avoid blues - they can see blue. Red just looks like more green to them.
DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES WASH YOUR HUNTING CLOTHES WITH STANDARD LAUNDRY DETERGENT.
All laundry detergents today have 'brighteners' - which will make you stand out to game animals at dawn and dusk. Use baking soda, or one of the many 'hunters' laundry detergents available with no brighteners.
If you look around, you can probably put your whole clothing package together (except boots) for about 200 bucks with spares. You probably have some of this stuff already. Some things like longjohns you can order over the web - they're 'streachy' so you don't need a precise size. That'll help you find a 'good deal'. Check out places like marks work warehouse as well for 'work pants' and stuff, sometimes they have deals. Costco is a great place for cheap fleece. Look for turlenecks, heavy sweaters, and vests - that and a thermal underlayer and decent jacket will let you adjust to any weather, from warm to below freezing. Get thick pants and good bottoms for your longjohns - if it's warm skip the longjohns and put less on your top.
Hope some of this helps.
Problem with that is it's no good for cutting a trail into the animal if you need to. If that's not a likely requirement where you hunt, then the saw might be fine. Otherwise, you're just bringing two things when one will do.
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
I remember walking into my stand, liners out of my boots, no socks, and just a t shirt with a wool sweather on(extreme hunting ). All my clothes tied to my pack. On arrival after the cool down, I would ditch the t shirt , and dress for the extreme cold, a layer at a time, to avoid any moisture. Now this was for long stints on stand in really cold temps.
). All my clothes tied to my pack. On arrival after the cool down, I would ditch the t shirt , and dress for the extreme cold, a layer at a time, to avoid any moisture. Now this was for long stints on stand in really cold temps.
I agree with the layering of clothing, a good sleeping bag and most of the rest. Sleeping in the car and running it to keep warm is a no no in my opinion. One little exhaust leak and you are toast. If you leave the window open a touch for air you are also at risk.
Instead of cordless sawsall, it's an art to cut down the back of a moose on the ground and get it straight, get yourself a nice little 2.5 lb - 3 lb axe. CT sells a metal shaft, rubber handled one about 32 inches long that you won't break. You can quarter your moose with that easily. Instead of cutting down the backbone cut down the ribs where the chops and t-bones meet the ribs, (there is a definite change of material and easily identifyable). The backbone will be one pack, ribs another and front and rear quarters one pack for each. Ribs and backbone can be carried together on a calf.
In lieu of a winch use a lot of good rope, not polyprop as it stretches a mile and anything you pull will launch like a shuttle. A good braided rope and some 3 inch pullies will do . I have a 1200 ft of 5/8 inch + braided rope that I take every year, saves a lot of packing. You should be able to shoulder the quarters easily and not be bothered with a pack although a good pack is a benefit. If you choose to pack don't take as much rope...
Good luck and safe hunting...
Instead of cordless sawsall, it's an art to cut down the back of a moose on the ground and get it straight, get yourself a nice little 2.5 lb - 3 lb axe. CT sells a metal shaft, rubber handled one about 32 inches long that you won't break. You can quarter your moose with that easily. Instead of cutting down the backbone cut down the ribs where the chops and t-bones meet the ribs, (there is a definite change of material and easily identifyable). The backbone will be one pack, ribs another and front and rear quarters one pack for each. Ribs and backbone can be carried together on a calf.
In lieu of a winch use a lot of good rope, not polyprop as it stretches a mile and anything you pull will launch like a shuttle. A good braided rope and some 3 inch pullies will do . I have a 1200 ft of 5/8 inch + braided rope that I take every year, saves a lot of packing. You should be able to shoulder the quarters easily and not be bothered with a pack although a good pack is a benefit. If you choose to pack don't take as much rope...
Good luck and safe hunting...
- Location
- Hillbilly shack in the boonies
Vader said:
I feel that my words were misunderstood.
I never stated he should run the engine to keep him warm at night or when sleeping.
I took the seats out of my van and slept on the floor.If one is smart enough to bring a matress...I wasn't... and ran the engine before going to sleep - to get things warm and dry and then in the morning to make some coffee and warm up/ get changed.
sleeping with the engine running is not a good idea,
Hardcore campers:
How do you sleep in your bags? dressed with spare clothes, with the same ones u used all day (umph) , a thin layer, a thick one....or plain in the underwear?
I've heard people using various mehods to keep them warm.
I overdressed once and woke up more like a popsicle....
