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For a few pails just use something small, like 4 inches deep X 12 - 16 inches in dia. Buy dollar store ladle with holes and muffin tins and spray them with liquid graphite from CT. Ingots fall out easily. Sort out all the steel and zinc weights.
 
I started out with a cast iron pan over a fire. I did not expect the weight of molten lead, so I no longer use a frying pan. I use a medium sized stainless steel pot with a lid and riveted handles. I also have an outdoor burner on a 4 legged platform that connects to a propane tank. I fill up the pot with wheel weights after getting rid of the steel ones and especially the zinc ones. Then turn on the heat and let the melting begin. I only use enough heat to melt and not get the lead really hot, that way if I miss a zinc weight, it will not melt into the lead and can be scooped out.

I do this outside because the oils and dirt on the weights does not smell nice, once I get all the metal out, then flux the pot, ladle the molten lead into a ingot mold and its all done. with a full pot, I get about 30 pounds of ingots per run.

Now to get back to the lid part...not necessary for only wheel weights, but I also melt range scrap and if you miss a bullet that has a complete metal jacket, it will spurt molten lead, which can really do some damage to soft tissue like eyes and skin :)

Do it outside and don't breathe the fumes :evil:
 
I use an old compressed air tank the size of a propane tank. I worked handles into it as I wouldn't trust rivets with heat like that. I use a turkey fryer burner as my heat source. I dump in about 30lbs at a time and it takes 20min to melt, I need to make a wind shield to speed things up.
 
If you have several five gallon pails of wheelweights to render down ("smelt"), you'll want to use something that can comfortably hold 50 lbs of melted alloy with at least 3-4 inches of space above it. Something with rounded sides for easier scooping. Large steel mixing bowls work well for that purpose.
 
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I use stainless pails from Princess Auto on a Colman camp stove or an open coil hot plate. If I'm doing a lot, I use the hot plate. It takes a bit to heat up, but you can go for hours. I use a kitchen ladle to pour the ingots into small muffin pans. I like the smaller ingots because they melt quicker and let my pot get back to casting temp faster.

I made a video to show a friend that the steel clips float. You can see the hot plate and pail I use.

 
I like the idea of the larger pot.
The smaller surface area makes for easier skimming and less heat loss, plus the larger the melt, the more consistent the alloy you'll have.
 
Canadian_Zuk said:
I use stainless pails from Princess Auto on a Colman camp stove or an open coil hot plate. If I'm doing a lot, I use the hot plate. It takes a bit to heat up, but you can go for hours. I use a kitchen ladle to pour the ingots into small muffin pans. I like the smaller ingots because they melt quicker and let my pot get back to casting temp faster.

I made a video to show a friend that the steel clips float. You can see the hot plate and pail I use.

Click to expand...

Does that pail have a fold seam on the side? How is the bottom attached?
 
zuke said:
Does that pail have a fold seam on the side? How is the bottom attached?
Click to expand...

No seams on the pail, it's a stamped steel pail from Princess Auto. I've used pails, pots, fry pans and even stainless steel camp mugs before.

The hot plate is a 1000 watt open coil element type from Cdn Tire, it was $17 +tax. It doesn't seem to get the melt much hotter than 700 degrees, regardless of how much lead is in the pot. This is a good thing, any zinc I miss simply floats on top.
 
Good to hear! I was picturing a seam letting go when it's full.
It take's me about 1 1/2 hour's to get my pot full of molten lead. Make's for consistant batch's!
 
I bought a nice cast iron pot to melt lead once.It lasted one session and when the lead cooled it split. Finally eneded up making one with steel pipe and a flat piece of steel until I found one ready made. The electric casting pot works okay but slow for me.
 
Large cast iron pot, it holds 40lb's or so, over a Coleman stove. The stove's grill will need some help or it will sag badly, the pot is reloaded when 1/3 full of melt to make things go a bit quicker and better alloy consistency. Needless to say, that stove is condemned for future food cooking!.
I too like the small ingot muffin trays.

Neighbours, will appreciate if your fumes do not fog over their BB'Q !!!. LoL ;)

Edit: Sawdust is good flux ... smells like a campfire after all that stench of melting!.
 
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vviking said:
Neighbours, will appreciate if your fumes do not fog over their BB'Q !!!. LoL ;)

Edit: Sawdust is good flux ... smells like a campfire after all that stench of melting!.
Click to expand...

You can flux with just about anything that will burn and film on your melt. I've heard sawdust soaked with used motor oil works very well too.

I personally use bees wax, it is more expensive than paraffin but a little goes a long way and I also use it for lube base. Once you toss the wax in you just light the smoke with a match or lighter. There is no smoke and it smells like honey :)
 
vviking said:
Large cast iron pot, it holds 40lb's or so, over a Coleman stove. The stove's grill will need some help or it will sag badly, the pot is reloaded when 1/3 full of melt to make things go a bit quicker and better alloy consistency.

Edit: Sawdust is good flux ... smells like a campfire after all that stench of melting!.
Click to expand...

This is it. I have two cast iron pots, 25lbs & 20lbs lead capacity over propane Coleman stove. Grill is reinforced. While larger pot is melting lead the smaller one is preheating next load, this set up is quick and eficient as well not to mention is quite easy to handle as well. Hardwood sawdust is cheap and best as a flux.
 
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