Please help with crack repair tips

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Win94

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Fellas, i have decided to refinish my grandmothers old Savage 99c After taking the fore and butt stock off i have noticed a crack in the tang area. This has never been a hinderance to its accuracy as i have always got an easy 1.5" group with cheap factory loads. I want to repair it and not replace as it used to be the wood granny once held.:D :D LOL LOL Any crack repair tips would be very helpful.

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You are going to have to spread the crack wider. It is best done with a couple of wedges so you can spread the crack gently.. you don't want it to split the crack right open...

After you get the crack spread, you are going to want to clean it as best possible before putting anything in it. You might want to use an air hose to assist with this. If it is oily, flush acetone through it a few times.

I would suggest using plain old wood glue and work it down in the crack as best possible. Then you will need to clamp the crack together for 24 hours. Wipe off excess glue that will ooze out of the crack.

A very light sanding and a little stock finish should finish it off.
 
As an addendum to Guntech's method, after that is done, I like to cross pin with 2 toothpics glued through the crack longitudinally. Adds strength and you can hardly notice them once they are carefully filed and finished touched up on them....
 
I agree with guntech's method except I use boat building epoxy (West System) to repair a split fore end on my shotgun. I try wood glue on it and it always split after a few use. I found you need a slow setting glue so that it will penetrate the hardwood.
 
I had same problem

I had a simular problem. I first stripped the stock and got it nearly ready for the final prep before the oil finish. As suggested elsewhere gently spread the crack and inject some good wood glue into the opening. Needles for this purpose can be had from a good wood working supply store. They are sold to repair loose chair rungs etc.

I clamped and drilled the stock for 1/8 inch doweling as req. ( I used hardwood bar-b-que skewers). After everything was dry and the clamps removed I sanded the stock slightly and saved some sawdust. This was mixed with white wood glue and used as a filler for any remaining surface cracks. Finish normally. It worked for me.

I use the good old white glue as it is stronger then the yellow, dries clear and can be sanded. The newer epoxies will work as well but can be difficult to sand and may not take the finish like the surrounding wood.
 
to add to the above, a shop vac with a narrow tip can sometimes be used to 'draw' the glue into the crack.
 
Is that a second crack on the right side?

All good advise from the other fellows.

I like to use Brownells Acra-glas epoxy that has been thinned with acetone of toluene. Before starting, I put a coat of paste wax on the stock so that excess epoxy won't stick. I spread the crack as much as I dare and inject the epoxy into the crack with a syringe. I use surgical tubing as a clamp. I stretch it as I wrap it around the stock.
 
Is that a second crack on the right side
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.................yup. I am not to worried about that one though. Thanks for all the tips fellas. I appreciate it. I have been through tons of firearms since discovering this forum two year ago but this rifle will never be sold and is a tremendous keep sake for myself. Thanks again.
 
I have had amazings results using superglue on close fitting cracks. Spred the crack apart dribble it in, clamp it tight for a couple of minutes. Never had something come apart using this method & its almost invisible. Only works were the wood fits closely though.
 
desporterizer said:
I have had amazings results using superglue on close fitting cracks. Spred the crack apart dribble it in, clamp it tight for a couple of minutes. Never had something come apart using this method & its almost invisible. Only works were the wood fits closely though.
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Lee Valley Tools (and KMS Tools here in B.C.) carries a line of industrial "superglue" from CA Glues in California that are excellent for this. They come in three viscosities, too. I used some to repair a hairline crack through the wrist of a Marlin 45-70 and it hasn't budged.

:) Stuart
 
I've also had success repairing a similar crack by spreading the crack and injecting Brownells Acraglass, then binding it together with tubing as someone has already mentioned. Acraglass bedding kits come with dye sets, so I colored the epoxy to be just a touch lighter than the light part (not grain) of the wood around the crack, then build up the epoxy just a little higher than the wood area. Once it was dry, I used steel wool and fine sandpaper to remove the excess. It did a good job to hide the crack.
 
Use "Gorilla glue" available from hardware stores.
You wet the crack and apply the glue and the glue foams up and penetrates all through the crack. I use Gorilla for laminating wood in archery bows and believe me , it is the strongest glue ever. You have to clamp to close the crsack to a minimum and be sure to wipe off the excess foam before it hardens. The wood on either side of the junction will fail before the glue comes unstuck.
Jim
 
After you go to all of the work of repairing the crack, you need to ensure that it will not happen again. You need to make sure that the cheeks of the stock are bearing evenly on the receiver and the lower tang snugs up nicely on the stock--stock bolt should be firmly tight, but not too tight. Finally, you need to make sure there is a slight bit of clearance at the rear of the upper tang and the stock.

44Bore
 
To spread the action I take a 3/8 bolt and cut it so it just fits crossways where the action sits.I thread a nut on put the bolt in the stock then you can take a wrench and turn the nut out.You have great control on how far you want to spread the crack.I use Acra Glass and warm it up with a heat gun pour it into a syringe(you can get them at any drug store and diff needle sizes.)Than you just put the glass where you want it.Remove bolt and clamp.
 
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