please remove
- Thread starter steveb67
- Start date
Matt_dal123
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
It can be done. But it's time consuming. I would always suggest bedding your rifle. But unless you know what your doing, get someone or some source of Info to help you. I know Jerry at mystic precision is great for info on this. Drop him a PM. Or go to the site and ask.
But bedding will help.
But bedding will help.
ultimate_monkey
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- victoria BC
is it currently sittin in an accustock? the accustocks have a few more tricks and qwerks to bedding then a standard stock does. if you do see a smith about it, make sure they are comfortable / knowledgeable on doing the accustocks or you will just be wasting time and $
Use a good bedding compound. Devcon F Aluminum putty is easy to work with. Bed your Cooey and some other simple guns first, to learn the tricks. I use masking tape on the outside of the stock in case there are any drips our squirts.
bedding not only improves accuracy but is helps a rifle to hold zero, which in a hunting rifle is even more important.
Remember to put release agent on the action screws and threads.
bedding not only improves accuracy but is helps a rifle to hold zero, which in a hunting rifle is even more important.
Remember to put release agent on the action screws and threads.
It's easy. Do it your self. Only the first time is sketchy till u see how easy it is.
The best release agent I've used is case lube for reloading. Shoe polish worked good also but it was harder than you think to get the polish off the action when it's all done.
Sand the contact down in the stock a little bit so there is room for compound.
Stick play dough anywhere you don't want compound.
Wrap tape around the barrel in 1 or 3 places. This will keep everything elevated after sanding and ensure your barrel stays free floating.
Apply release agent
Apply compound (JB Weld works very good regardless what people think)
Put action in place, tape it down.
20-30 min later, cut excess splat away and use a ton of q-tips to clean and make it look like a good install.
Leave rifle on bench for over 24h.
Remove action and note how it now fits so perfect it must go stright in up and down.
The best release agent I've used is case lube for reloading. Shoe polish worked good also but it was harder than you think to get the polish off the action when it's all done.
Sand the contact down in the stock a little bit so there is room for compound.
Stick play dough anywhere you don't want compound.
Wrap tape around the barrel in 1 or 3 places. This will keep everything elevated after sanding and ensure your barrel stays free floating.
Apply release agent
Apply compound (JB Weld works very good regardless what people think)
Put action in place, tape it down.
20-30 min later, cut excess splat away and use a ton of q-tips to clean and make it look like a good install.
Leave rifle on bench for over 24h.
Remove action and note how it now fits so perfect it must go stright in up and down.
I just bedded my savage model 12, this was my first bedding job,
I used Devcon steel putty, kiwi shoe polish, and modeling clay
I went with one of my action bolts to a hardware store and bought bolts the same thread but 5 inches long ($2), cut the heads off em and used them as alignment pins, its also good if the action is a little stuck you can tap on the pins with a hammer to break it free
I also removed the trigger from the action (just that one pin on accutriggers), so I could fill that whole cavity with clay
I didnt bed the rear tang area, isnt really enough meat there because of the safety
mine is a single shot, so I bedded from 3/4 of an inch infront of the barrel nut, (filled the grooves of the barrel nut with clay), recoil lug area (no tape on recoil lug like some people do), stopped the bedding just before the trigger at the rear action bolt
I got a little bit of chipping around the bolt holes (not a big deal), the action fits snug in the recoil lug area now
worked out good for me, you learn alot the first one, but i would do it again
Alex
I used Devcon steel putty, kiwi shoe polish, and modeling clay
I went with one of my action bolts to a hardware store and bought bolts the same thread but 5 inches long ($2), cut the heads off em and used them as alignment pins, its also good if the action is a little stuck you can tap on the pins with a hammer to break it free
I also removed the trigger from the action (just that one pin on accutriggers), so I could fill that whole cavity with clay
I didnt bed the rear tang area, isnt really enough meat there because of the safety
mine is a single shot, so I bedded from 3/4 of an inch infront of the barrel nut, (filled the grooves of the barrel nut with clay), recoil lug area (no tape on recoil lug like some people do), stopped the bedding just before the trigger at the rear action bolt
I got a little bit of chipping around the bolt holes (not a big deal), the action fits snug in the recoil lug area now
worked out good for me, you learn alot the first one, but i would do it again
Alex
Acetone on a synthetic stock is a horrible idea......or even a wood stock that has a finish on it, it will likely melt the synthetic stock and will strip most any wood finish apart from a 2 part epoxy or clearcoat.
Use rubbing alcohol on q-tips won't harm the synthetic stock or even most wood finishes unless of course you soak it for a period of time. And keep plenty of paper towel handy.
- Location
- Vancouver Island
Question: did you have the internal (blind) magazine attached to the action? If so, how did you remove it? I just went thru the exact scenario you did, pretty much down to the last detail (mod 12, Devcon, kiwi, modelling clay, no tape on recoil lug, etc.), but the one thing I had a problem with was the magazine - it wasn't coming off that action short of using dynamite.
I ended up coating the mag in clay and putting a bunch of clay down into the inlet as well to prevent any mag-devcon-stock linkages from setting up. Worked well enough, but it was a pain I wasn't expecting (and there's still bits and pieces of the clay down in the well that I couldn't remove very easily afterwards).
I would have taken photos of the mag area with clay to help the next person along, but didn't want photographic reminders in case something went horribly wrong...
+1 on that - a good experience, although a bit nerve-wracking, wondering where the epoxy was migrating to down in the mag well...
The easiest way to remove a barrelled action from a stock after bedding:
-Hold the rifle as you normally would but with right thumb on tang and left thumb across the top of the barrel half way down the forend.
-Fold up a towel and put it across a chair
-Drop the barrel flat onto the towel on the chair ( Don't be scared to use a bit of force, just keep that thumb across the barrel so your barrelled action doesn't flop onto the floor.)
-Once you feel it break free just wiggle it out.
Another mistake lots of guys make when bedding is using to much release agent. Put your paste wax or shoe polish on just a thin layer then wipe it off, you shouldn't see any release agent on the action/barrel at all. If you can see release agent then you have just wasted a bunch of time.
-Hold the rifle as you normally would but with right thumb on tang and left thumb across the top of the barrel half way down the forend.
-Fold up a towel and put it across a chair
-Drop the barrel flat onto the towel on the chair ( Don't be scared to use a bit of force, just keep that thumb across the barrel so your barrelled action doesn't flop onto the floor.)
-Once you feel it break free just wiggle it out.
Another mistake lots of guys make when bedding is using to much release agent. Put your paste wax or shoe polish on just a thin layer then wipe it off, you shouldn't see any release agent on the action/barrel at all. If you can see release agent then you have just wasted a bunch of time.
