Pls Remove

What guide rod should I replace my factory Norinco one with? I have a DA Socom that is 100% stock, I'm new to the platform and am unsure of the best way to approach it.
 
CanadaPanda - thanks for posting this all in one spot as while all this info is posted here already ( much of it in the stickies ) having it condensed into one, easily understood, and short thread is very helpful for new users.

I am not an expert but I 've been around this platform a long time and I've a few observations:

1. before doing any accuracy mods read AS MUCH AS YOU CAN ABOUT THE M14

2. the number one thing to do for accuracy in the M14 is to figure out a good load

3. reloading for a M14 gas gun isn't hard BUT it takes different knowledge to that required for a bolt gun. Read before re-loading to avoid potentially unsafe things happening.

4. bedding a M14 is more difficult than a bolt gun - practice on a Norc stock before playing with your Boyds or USGI.

5. once bedded the rifle should not be frequently disassembled. Skim bedding may be need to be reapplied after about 1500 rounds - YMMV

6.if you can, get to a Hungry (Tactical Teacher) clinic or similar. You will learn more in a day than you will over several months of playing on your own.

Re Op Rod guides, I personally like the Sadlak but you will need a USGI spring as the Norc spring wont fit.

Have fun with these rifles - they are great learning tools and fun to use. If budget is tight then keep it stock and save accuracy goals for your Rem 700 bolt gun - remember what USGI accuracy standards were for the M14 and then you can relax a bit :) If budget is there then spend away on modding the heck out of the Norc or buy better but be warned the cost of going from 2.0 MOA to 1.0 MOA will shock you LOL.
 
Peening your gas lock may cause you some problems. I think you'll end up galling the contacting faces of the gas lock and gas cylinder.
 
So all this to make a semi auto battle rifle shoot 1-2" groups instead of 2-3" groups at 100 meters?

I never doubted the slight improvements of all the "accurizing" of the M14 personally, I always just thought it was a waste of time, money and effort to try to turn something into something it's not.

If I wanted a precision rifle I'd start with a bolt action gun and hand loads right off the bat. But that's just me :D
 
Peening your gas lock may cause you some problems. I think you'll end up galling the contacting faces of the gas lock and gas cylinder.

I have been accurizing the M14 platform and have peened the barrel splines for the gas cyinder for over 30 years and have never seen a problem.

"Peening the gas lock" I assume is the hex head gas cylinder plug. This is unnecssary. All that is needed is to insure its not loose prior to shooting. A poorly machined norstinko or commercial Springfield loose threaded nut can be tightened with an o ring, or shim if necessary. Peening is bad due to the frequent disassembly required for piston cleaning.

If "Peening the gas lock" refers to peening the cylinder lock face for the figure 8 gas cylinder lock that screws onto the barrel and tightens and indexes on the gas cylinder, that to is unnecessary as it is held in place by a correctly tightened cylinder plug.

And yes I have seen the infrequent idiot on the firing line that loses his piston because he didn't check the plug and i have sold plugs to them for $20 each (tall grass is my friend) LOL !



CERBERUS
 
Even with the cylinder plug tight my gas block still had some longitudinal play. So I'm not sure that I understand what you are saying, or I didn't describe clearly what I was trying to say from the start. :)

There is no such thing as a gas block in the M14 nomenclature.
If you are refering to your gas cylinder having longditudinal play that is solved with a shim between the barrel front band and cylinder, in that order, and peening the cylinder barrel splines.



CERBERUS
 
I didn't peen the block at all, just the band and the figure eight to make them thicker. I figured that they were cheap to replace if I ended up messing them up. The reason I did this was because I did't want to remove my welded on flash hider to install shims. :D

You dont need to remove the flash hider to install shims.



CERBERUS
 
I didn't peen the block at all, just the band and the figure eight to make them thicker. I figured that they were cheap to replace if I ended up messing them up. The reason I did this was because I did't want to remove my welded on flash hider to install shims. :D

The "figure eight" is your gas lock. Every time you disassemble/reassemble the gas system that peened face will gouge into the face of your gas cylinder. You want a smooth contacting surface between both parts because of this.
 
Ya..... I dunno about these theories...
If you want difinitive info (non theory) about accuracy gains via gas system mods/improvements ect..... Use some google-fu and the name Gus Fischer
 
Ya..... I dunno about these theories...


If you want difinitive info (non theory) about accuracy gains via gas system mods/improvements ect..... Use some google-fu and the name Gus Fischer

Good to see your still around ! Not really retired from business after all -

Gus's theories re. tension is something I have experimented with a lot over the years and have found that minute changes in his torque settings vary muchly from rifle to rifle (due to varying norstinko tolerances {my opinion based on my testing parameters}), and then there's the reported stock stinkos that do just as well as a Gus gun LOL!

If you have gauged the M-14 experience of some of the posters on this thread you may think his info is past the posters development experience of the M14 platform.

Where Gus posts is a good site to learn.



CERBERUS
 
Good to see your still around ! Not really retired from business after all -

I'm lurking more often than not these days ;)
Others can have the m14 guru spotlight hehehe
I'm more retired than "in business" and rather like it this way. Keepin it fun and real these days that's for sure :D
 
Back
Top Bottom