Polishing a chamber shoulder...thoughts please..

icehunter121 said:
So I tried something. I took 10 cases and drew a line on them with a black felt. I placed the cases into the chamber with my fingers tight with the mark at 12 o clock. I slid the bolt in till it connected and tried to turn it down which I couldnt because of the resized brass issue. I ejected the cases as normal and each had a mark at 2 o clock. I took a couple of more cases and did the same thing, except...when they were being extracted as soon as I could I put my pinky finger on them and held them over so they didnt catch anything. I did 5 cases this way and all came out with no mark. So then I took the same cases and redid it again but this time didnt hold them over...and they had marks.

I dont have a roll pin punch that small so this is all I could come up with at the time. Now taking a super close look at the rh side under a powerful flashlight I can see a slight rough edge on the right side above the bolt raceway. But its not in the right position on the clock to connect. I looked through the bottom of the receiver upwards to the 12 o clock position and damn, there is a rough edge hanging down from the top of the receiver at about the 2 o clock position where the lug would lock up in. It gives a look as if you were to peen a piece of steel or how a chisel end looks after hitting it good with a hammer. Grabbed a q tip, give it a wipe and out comes very tiny pieces of brass.

So maybe next step would be to give it a very slight sanding with 1000 grit on a dowel and see if that corrects the problem? Its certainly rough/ sharp enough to cause a chatter/skip mark like the brass shows.
Click to expand...

Following your description, ice hunter, I think? Should be a picture below of a 223 Rem barrel from a Stevens 200 - hopefully can see a small bevel cut right at entrance to the chamber - do you have a sharp edge there? That was causing the chatter marks??

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Potashminer said:
Following your description, ice hunter, I think? Should be a picture below of a 223 Rem barrel from a Stevens 200 - hopefully can see a small bevel cut right at entrance to the chamber - do you have a sharp edge there? That was causing the chatter marks??

View attachment 446187
Click to expand...

No its actually right on the receiver itself. If it wasnt so foggy and gloomy outside to get a pic I would get one for you. I didnt see a small piece of metal hanging down until I used a good flashlight and looked up thru the bottom of the mag well.
 
I just pulled a barrel off a 700 that had this problem area already altered. I think Remington did this one...

This 'beveled' spot is right where the end of a case is pushed by the ejector on extraction as the case leaves the chamber. If it has not been altered, it is a sharp edge.
700-beveled-edge.jpg
 
guntech said:
I just pulled a barrel off a 700 that had this problem area already altered. I think Remington did this one...

This 'beveled' spot is right where the end of a case is pushed by the ejector on extraction as the case leaves the chamber. If it has not been altered, it is a sharp edge.
700-beveled-edge.jpg
Click to expand...

Thats the spot that mine has that jagged edge hanging down from it. I admit defeat!! Damn I learned something as I have never ran into this before.
 
3 coils is about 1/8"... about 22 or 23 coils in a full spring... never counted them before... always used the number three.

A factory uncut spring is 'finished' at both ends... as opposed to what it looks like when you cut one end.

I just did another one... measured before and after... factory spring close to 1.1" in length... and after cutting 3 coils was very close to 1" in length...
 
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Early 4,5,6&7 digit bolt ejectors were "domed" to eliminate ejector swipes in the case heads.

Current ejectors faces are machined square/perpendicular.

Cut too many coils off the ejector spring or bend the tag end will induce another anomaly to the equation.
Best to grind it square. & de-burr the cut end.
Cutting too many coils & you'll have to shorten the ejector pin that keeps the spring in alignment.
 
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