Polishing Linseed Oil?
- Thread starter sixty9santa
- Start date
I did a couple of stocks years ago using linseed oil. How I got it to shine was to rub it with my fingers. The friction of the rubbing will get the oil warm & it soon will start to take on a nice glow. There may be other ways but I read about using the fingers, it worked & I liked the results.
Plus I loved the smell of the linseed oil.
Plus I loved the smell of the linseed oil.
Linseed oil is very hard to get to a high polish, the main problem is, it never really dries hard unless it is cut with other products so you cannot build a surface. Drying will be a big problem. It very seldom used for any kind of stock work except for those that want to refinish a military surplus rifle. It would be best to start over again with a different oil.
bigbull
bigbull
polish
Assuming that the prep is done (stock wet sanded & grain filled properly).
Linseed (double boiled), final coat should be allowed to cure about 10 days depending on the humidity. I don't know how you applied it. You can put it on straight -- however I prefer to mix in a very small amount of Japan Dryer -- this helps speed the hardening process. Either way you should apply the oil in thin coats and after each rub down with a lint free cloth (I prefer disposable blue shop clothes. The coats should be applied over as long a period it takes to acheive the deaired finish.
SHINE-- After the stock is cured take a clean (washed & shaken) piece of burlap 12" square. Ball it up and rub the stock vigorously ( you will feel the stock ger warm from the friction). This should result in a stock finish that is not too shiney or dull. If you want a more gloss finish, use a carnauba paste wax (auto).
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Assuming that the prep is done (stock wet sanded & grain filled properly).
Linseed (double boiled), final coat should be allowed to cure about 10 days depending on the humidity. I don't know how you applied it. You can put it on straight -- however I prefer to mix in a very small amount of Japan Dryer -- this helps speed the hardening process. Either way you should apply the oil in thin coats and after each rub down with a lint free cloth (I prefer disposable blue shop clothes. The coats should be applied over as long a period it takes to acheive the deaired finish.
SHINE-- After the stock is cured take a clean (washed & shaken) piece of burlap 12" square. Ball it up and rub the stock vigorously ( you will feel the stock ger warm from the friction). This should result in a stock finish that is not too shiney or dull. If you want a more gloss finish, use a carnauba paste wax (auto).
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
X2 for the wax. Unfortuneately, you will never get a piano-type gloss finish using BLO as a base....but a few thin coats of paste wax (I like minwax natural paste wax) will buff to a decent shine. Make sure the oil is FULLY cured before applying though, or the finish will be cloudy (Two weeks is my minimum)
Alternatively, you could apply another topcpat over the oil once cured. I like the "secret mix" on a gunstock: 40% polymerized Tung oil, 40% Spar varnish (note: NOT urethane....varnish) 20% turpentine and a few drops of Japan dryer. Wipe on, wait ten minutes, wipe off. Wait 4 hrs then repeat.
Ryan
Alternatively, you could apply another topcpat over the oil once cured. I like the "secret mix" on a gunstock: 40% polymerized Tung oil, 40% Spar varnish (note: NOT urethane....varnish) 20% turpentine and a few drops of Japan dryer. Wipe on, wait ten minutes, wipe off. Wait 4 hrs then repeat.
Ryan
MauserMike
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
When I was into Lee-Enfields a while back I used a receipe that consisted of
1/3 BLO ( Boiled Linseed Oil)
1/3 Turpentine
1/3 Bee's Wax
Looked and smelled great
Bob
x2
Just don't melt the wax over an open flame.
When I was into Lee-Enfields a while back I used a receipe that consisted of
1/3 BLO ( Boiled Linseed Oil)
1/3 Turpentine
1/3 Bee's Wax
Looked and smelled great
Bob
Or...just buy a jar of Minwax finishing wax.
Dries hard and leaves a nice finish
I figure instead of starting a new thread, I'll ask a related question here.
I have a No5 Enfield and the stock is pretty dirty. It looks really good, but I'd like to clean off the surface dirt.
Should I:
1- Simply rub in boiled linseed oil.
2- Clean with rubbing alcohol, then apply BLO, then maybe wax...
3- Any other suggestions?
I don't care about a gloss finish, and I'd like to keep it as simple as possible. I just want to be able to handle the rifle without getting crud on my clothes.
I have a No5 Enfield and the stock is pretty dirty. It looks really good, but I'd like to clean off the surface dirt.
Should I:
1- Simply rub in boiled linseed oil.
2- Clean with rubbing alcohol, then apply BLO, then maybe wax...
3- Any other suggestions?
I don't care about a gloss finish, and I'd like to keep it as simple as possible. I just want to be able to handle the rifle without getting crud on my clothes.
Original finish.....
I think that a Cooey would not have had linseed oil as a finish. It probably would have had a sprayed laquer or varnish. "IF" you want an oiginal oil finish ...to mid 1800's specs I would suggest 1/3 turpentine to 2/3 boiled linseed. The turps helps it dry quicker and harder. Never leave any oil on the stock when you are finished rubbing it in. Remove all excess oil and leave to dry. To finish it off, again to that original finish I use 1/3 turpentine to 2/3 beeswax melted together. I put a thin coat of this on and then polish and leave a day or two and then repeat until you get what you want. Milsurps were never intended to be shiny....but individual preferences come into play here and they do look nice that way...but not original.
I think that a Cooey would not have had linseed oil as a finish. It probably would have had a sprayed laquer or varnish. "IF" you want an oiginal oil finish ...to mid 1800's specs I would suggest 1/3 turpentine to 2/3 boiled linseed. The turps helps it dry quicker and harder. Never leave any oil on the stock when you are finished rubbing it in. Remove all excess oil and leave to dry. To finish it off, again to that original finish I use 1/3 turpentine to 2/3 beeswax melted together. I put a thin coat of this on and then polish and leave a day or two and then repeat until you get what you want. Milsurps were never intended to be shiny....but individual preferences come into play here and they do look nice that way...but not original.
