Polishing matte stainless.
- Thread starter tactical_tech
- Start date
Well here's an update, I've only done the slide so far, started with 400grt-800-1000-2000. Used water the whole time. Didnt really take to long. Finished it up with some nevr-dull I had laying around. You can definitely see yourself in it, some spots are crystal clear others you can see small pitting, not sure if I needed to spend more time with the coarser paper or if its just the way it is, not sure, I'm sure someone here can answer.
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Typo should have been 1000 not 100
Tazik, the coarser grits are needed to remove the metal down to the bottom of the matt blasting pits. It's the "roughing" stage. Otherwise the job ends up with the evidence of the previous matt finish as Tactical is seeing. You CAN stick it out with the finer grits and go through more sheets of the stuff but it's likely our arms would fall off first... 
Seriously? It depends on how coarse of a matt finish is on the metal to begin with. I've seem some which are quite smooth and others which are deeply cut by the bead or other blasting process used by the makers. The coarser papers simply speed up the removal down to where it's a consistent base surface. Then it's on to the finer grits to begin the polishing out process.
Tactical, you'll need to decide for yourself if you need to go back to a coarser grit to remove the last of the evidence of the matt blasted finish or not. I know it would bug me if I didn't.
And how's the missus like the look so far? THAT is the litmus test of this work after all.
Skinny, as I understand it this is what happens when the break and reset points in the trigger travel are too close together. It IS a problem as it should not be possible to do this unless you are deliberatly trying to bump fire the gun. It's time to take it in for warranty or to a smith.
Seriously? It depends on how coarse of a matt finish is on the metal to begin with. I've seem some which are quite smooth and others which are deeply cut by the bead or other blasting process used by the makers. The coarser papers simply speed up the removal down to where it's a consistent base surface. Then it's on to the finer grits to begin the polishing out process.Tactical, you'll need to decide for yourself if you need to go back to a coarser grit to remove the last of the evidence of the matt blasted finish or not. I know it would bug me if I didn't.
And how's the missus like the look so far? THAT is the litmus test of this work after all.
Skinny, as I understand it this is what happens when the break and reset points in the trigger travel are too close together. It IS a problem as it should not be possible to do this unless you are deliberatly trying to bump fire the gun. It's time to take it in for warranty or to a smith.
Oh trust me it bugs me seeing the pits lol. I'm gonna take another crack at it today and start over, I did notice on the second side I took more time with the 400-800 and there is less evidence of pitting. Time to go stretch my arm
Using a wrapped file is good. If you haven't done this yet, try working on a mirror or glass (put the paper on the surface and then run the slide along it). This will give you the flattest edge possible.
*The glass/mirror surface will get scratched.
*The glass/mirror surface will get scratched.
Another update: I started again from 400-800-1000-2000. Used 2 pieces of paper for each grit, instead of one like the first time, and took a much closer look between stages. The difference is quit noticeable especially if you use a flashlight to examine it(dont accidentally point it right back at yourself...not that I did that). The reflection is very clear and any small pits or anything are very minor. Overall I'm very pleased how it turned out. Now it just needs the misses approval. Here's some more pics.
