Ponsness Warren Autodrive for Dillon 1050 (Large pic warning)

Doc M said:
HOT!

Even the obligatory "toe" shot! :D

Extra points for the sweet socks... :p

I find the "rate limiting step" for me with my 1050 is the trimming of the brass... I over-trim by about 10 thousandths, and come out right on. The ammo works like a friggin' charm. Saves me sizing/swaging, then trimming the lot, then re-feeding it all to load... but I know that if I were processing that much brass in a go, it would be worth the effort to split the operations.

Good stuff, Canuck!!!

-M
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What are you using for a case trimmer Doc?

I use the RCBS with the shell holders, and the Trim pro three way cutter, so once it's set up, it trims camfers and deburs all at the same time, and with the lever for changing brass out I find it to be very efficient. If there is a faster system out there I don't know about it. Well maybe the dillon if you find room to mount it on the press.

Thanks for the reply on the bullet feeder, Canuck. Thats probably going to be what keeps me from getting setup like you, I use cast bullets mostly.
 
Scar270 said:
What are you using for a case trimmer Doc?

I use the RCBS with the shell holders, and the Trim pro three way cutter, so once it's set up, it trims camfers and deburs all at the same time, and with the lever for changing brass out I find it to be very efficient. If there is a faster system out there I don't know about it. Well maybe the dillon if you find room to mount it on the press.
Click to expand...

Right now, I'm using the Possum Hollow KT-1 trimmer; it doesn't chamfer or deburr, but it leaves such a fine burr that I find it's not even necessary to chamfer/deburr after trimming. Just trim-n-go.

The PH trimmer is like a pencil sharpener - and uses the shoulder as a datum point. Pretty slick stuff - I find it faster and definitely neater than my RCBS; with a 3-way on the RCBS I might be convinced otherwise though. I look for 3-way pilots whenever I stroll through WSS but I never find the ones I need...

Anyway, the PH KT-1 takes about 3 seconds or less with a drill to chop down my brass - I fill a cardboard box (an old small rifle primer 5,000 case) with brass, spraying each "layer" with case lube lightly... then juggle 'em all around, and toss 'em in the case feeder of the 1050 and it's go time.

-M
 
Quigley said:
Damn you....

Now I have to have one. It really smooths out the indexing (a must with 9 major)

I opted to spend this years throw away money of a Crest Ultrasonic Cleaner.

Maybe I'll give the PW to myself for Christmas.
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Hold the phone. I just installed RePetes primer tube gimmick, and ran 250 cases through the sizer and swager. I will take the shellplate off tomorrow, clean and lube it, and test it again, however......

I'm a little concerned about the indexing, but I can't be sure if it's the PW or just the nature of the press. While cranking the handle, I don't have the luxury of sitting on the right hand side and just watch the shellplate move. I'm not having any failures to index, but I'm surprised to note how many times the pins in the toolhead are actually moving the shellplate into final position.

My working theory is that the machine, unlike you and I, doesn't change the spped and force used to move the toolhead up with little load, compared to moving the toolhead down under a huge amount of force. On the way up, I think I'm normally accelerating the shellplate faster.

{EDIT} OK, so I cracked a beer or two and sat and watched the beast process 1000 cases without a hiccup. I think I'm paranoid, just waiting for a problem. So far so good.
 
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Canuck223 said:
I'm a little concerned about the indexing, but I can't be sure if it's the PW or just the nature of the press. While cranking the handle, I don't have the luxury of sitting on the right hand side and just watch the shellplate move. I'm not having any failures to index, but I'm surprised to note how many times the pins in the toolhead are actually moving the shellplate into final position.
Click to expand...

My take on it, in the short time I've had the 1050, is this:

The Dillon 1050's indexing system is a lot like ###. There's a lot of rattling and wiggling that can happen when the upper and lower are separated - but once the pin goes in the right hole, and assuming the pin is of the appropriate girth, everything runs smoothly and efficiently. Then, changing positions, there may be a slight offset - but that's why the tip of the pin has a slight taper and a rounded contour; to help ease it into that hole again. The lower may shudder a bit from side to side as the pin slides its tip in, but once the full girth is locked against the walls of the hole, the lower isn't going ANYWHERE.

Now, if the pin slams into the side of the hole, and doesn't work its way in... or if it goes in the wrong hole after an incomplete position change... well, there's hell to pay and it takes a long time before you can get the pin in the proper hole again.

Gives a whole new meaning to "reloading ####," doesn't it? :D

-M
 
Doc M said:
My take on it, in the short time I've had the 1050, is this:

The Dillon 1050's indexing system is a lot like ###. There's a lot of rattling and wiggling that can happen when the upper and lower are separated - but once the pin goes in the right hole, and assuming the pin is of the appropriate girth, everything runs smoothly and efficiently. Then, changing positions, there may be a slight offset - but that's why the tip of the pin has a slight taper and a rounded contour; to help ease it into that hole again. The lower may shudder a bit from side to side as the pin slides its tip in, but once the full girth is locked against the walls of the hole, the lower isn't going ANYWHERE.

Now, if the pin slams into the side of the hole, and doesn't work its way in... or if it goes in the wrong hole after an incomplete position change... well, there's hell to pay and it takes a long time before you can get the pin in the proper hole again.

Gives a whole new meaning to "reloading ####," doesn't it? :D

-M
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Well, I had time to play, so I readjusted the beast. Previously, I'd started with the toolhead down. This time, I began with the toolhead all the way up. It's amazing what a few mm diference can have.

It's indexing perfectly now.
 
Canuck223 said:
Well, I had time to play, so I readjusted the beast. Previously, I'd started with the toolhead down. This time, I began with the toolhead all the way up. It's amazing what a few mm diference can have.

It's indexing perfectly now.
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Nice!

I find mine indexes smoothly now as well, and that's how I set it up - toolhead up. Good to know that it smoothed things out for you.

-M
 
So how do you find your Mr. Bulletfeeder?

The only thing holding me back from getting it is I am not really sure what goes into changing calibers when it is installed. Is it as simple as disconnecting the tube the bullets travel down from the press, and changing a shellplate, or is there alot that has to go on?

Thanks, and cool setup. The 1050 is such an awesome press.
 
Kevin M. said:
So how do you find your Mr. Bulletfeeder?

The only thing holding me back from getting it is I am not really sure what goes into changing calibers when it is installed. Is it as simple as disconnecting the tube the bullets travel down from the press, and changing a shellplate, or is there alot that has to go on?

Thanks, and cool setup. The 1050 is such an awesome press.
Click to expand...

There is an adapter that attaches to the press, and if your smart, stays there. To swap calibers, you just back off an allen screw in the white derlin end of the spring tube, and lift it off. Then you can take the toolhead off like normal. The bulletfeeder has a collator plate just like the casefeeder which is changed for a different caliber. If the bullet style is different, you may need to adjust the nosepiece which lifts the bullets if they are pointed down.

A bullet feeder caliber conversion is $150, but if you just need a second adapter for the press, I'm sure Rik will sell it seperately.
 
Canuck223 said:
Hold the phone. I just installed RePetes primer tube gimmick, and ran 250 cases through the sizer and swager. I will take the shellplate off tomorrow, clean and lube it, and test it again, however......

I'm a little concerned about the indexing, but I can't be sure if it's the PW or just the nature of the press. While cranking the handle, I don't have the luxury of sitting on the right hand side and just watch the shellplate move. I'm not having any failures to index, but I'm surprised to note how many times the pins in the toolhead are actually moving the shellplate into final position.

My working theory is that the machine, unlike you and I, doesn't change the spped and force used to move the toolhead up with little load, compared to moving the toolhead down under a huge amount of force. On the way up, I think I'm normally accelerating the shellplate faster.

{EDIT} OK, so I cracked a beer or two and sat and watched the beast process 1000 cases without a hiccup. I think I'm paranoid, just waiting for a problem. So far so good.
Click to expand...

Dave, what is RePetes primer tube gimmick?

I hate you too!!

That is so cool, you got me thinking.
 
Opcx6 said:
Dave, what is RePetes primer tube gimmick?

I hate you too!!

That is so cool, you got me thinking.
Click to expand...

So get over here and have a peek!

His trick is to cut the base off a .223 Rem case, and gently flair the mouth, then drive it up into the primer hole under the press. A 3/8ths inch ID tube fits over the end and the primers drop down the tube into a waiting bottle.

I find it keeps the bench much cleaner.
 
I didn't get a long enough hose, but I already had the .223 brass ready, so I put it into mine, and hung it down into the primer catch tray that came with the press. I found that alone cut down the primers that escaped to virtually zero.
 
twig_40 said:
could you take a picture of your primer tube trick?
Click to expand...

I'll try, but it's as simple as it sounds.

1) Remove the bracket that holds the primer catch bin in place.
2) Take a spent .223 Rem case, and cut the base off, just a bit in front of the extractor groove.
3) Flair the mouth of the case with a phillips screwdriver.
4) Insert the mouth of the case into the hole under station #2
5) Attach a 3/8 I.D. plastic hose on the end of the case, and run it into a bottle.
 
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