POSP mounted up but a few Q's

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bosro

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So I finally got around to mounting the scope up the other day.
Install relatively easy using the CZ rail and the 6x24 with SVD mount.
Once I figured out the clickers were the opposite of every other scope I own(should have read about that) the sighting in was quite easy and am very happy with the combo.
One issue I am having tho is that after a bunch of shots the scope is slowly working itself loose.
I have the tension on the mount set so I can barely get the latch clipped into the locked position,still it slowly works itself loose.
To adjust the tension the scope has to come off and tightened a bit,if I had a shell deflector mounted to the rail this would be a PITA.
So has anyone else had this problem?
Am I missing something here?
I was told by Interammo a shell deflector was not necessary but even after just a couple hundred rounds the scope is pretty scarred up and the glow reticle only works part time.

Scope really does seem to hold zero really well tho!!:D
And I am really surprised at how well the rifle shoots out to 300yards......even with a blind ass like me behind the scope!

Any opinions a
 
bosro said:
So I finally got around to mounting the scope up the other day.
Install relatively easy using the CZ rail and the 6x24 with SVD mount.
Once I figured out the clickers were the opposite of every other scope I own(should have read about that) the sighting in was quite easy and am very happy with the combo.
One issue I am having tho is that after a bunch of shots the scope is slowly working itself loose.
I have the tension on the mount set so I can barely get the latch clipped into the locked position,still it slowly works itself loose.
To adjust the tension the scope has to come off and tightened a bit,if I had a shell deflector mounted to the rail this would be a PITA.
So has anyone else had this problem?
Am I missing something here?
I was told by Interammo a shell deflector was not necessary but even after just a couple hundred rounds the scope is pretty scarred up and the glow reticle only works part time.

Scope really does seem to hold zero really well tho!!:D
And I am really surprised at how well the rifle shoots out to 300yards......even with a blind ass like me behind the scope!

Any opinions a
Click to expand...

Mine is the 4x24BM, AK mount style. I had adjusted the tension when i put the rail on my cz and never come loose, rock solid and after removing the scope severals time from the rail, hold zero perfectly:) For your reticle, maybe you should contact interammo, those scope are made to wistand harsh treatment....
 
svt1940 said:
Mine is the 4x24BM, AK mount style. I had adjusted the tension when i put the rail on my cz and never come loose, rock solid and after removing the scope severals time from the rail, hold zero perfectly:) For your reticle, maybe you should contact interammo, those scope are made to wistand harsh treatment....
Click to expand...

Yes I am going to send him an email today...
Some of the empties have hit the little threaded thing on the bottom of the scope,Part of the illumination circuit.
My gun seems to be kicking em back a bit farther than expected.
The illuminated reticle really isn't a big deal,sort of a cool feature but I really probably won't ever use it much.
 
After looking at pics of the AK mount I am starting to wonder if it's the better mount for the CZ......
 
The new one's from Wolverine are moded AK mount's being used for the CZ. I told them that you can get them for the same price at other stores & got a strip torn off my back. All they did was add a defelctor shield to it. Still to date the best set-up on the market is the Kassat mount with a POSP scope but this is soon going to change...
Well atleast for me :p
Kassat mount shown in first pic at the bottom of the reciever said:
IMG00467.jpg

IMG00470.jpg

IMG00471.jpg
Click to expand...
 
bosro said:
After looking at pics of the AK mount I am starting to wonder if it's the better mount for the CZ......
Click to expand...

SVD mount has stopping pin in front and has to be slid on the rail all the way forward until it stops and only then locked. In this position it will not move under recoil. Same applies to AK mount with the only difference AK mount doesn't have pin in front; it stops by the mount's closed end at the back. Our CZ rail has been designed and built to accommodate both types of scope's mounts and have either of scopes locks positioned at the same distance from the shooters eye.
 
POSP scope question

Littles questions about POSP 4x24BM, are the chevrons to be used for 100m 200m and 300m distance with the 7.62x39? i mean for keeping the proper hold over? or they are intended for others distances? Also, how much is 1 click on the elevation turret? 1 inch or 1 mils? I want to know if i can rely on chevron for the 200 and 300 m distance or should i make the elevation corrections with the scope turret? Any advices welcome, thx!

Cheers,Jocelyn

Reticle of the 4x24BM
4x24M_red_huge.gif
[/IMG]
 
svt1940 said:
Littles questions about POSP 4x24BM, are the chevrons to be used for 100m 200m and 300m distance with the 7.62x39? i mean for keeping the proper hold over? or they are intended for others distances? Also, how much is 1 click on the elevation turret? 1 inch or 1 mils? I want to know if i can rely on chevron for the 200 and 300 m distance or should i make the elevation corrections with the scope turret? Any advices welcome, thx!

Cheers,Jocelyn

Reticle of the 4x24BM
4x24M_red_huge.gif
[/IMG]
Click to expand...
Yes it works for me zeroing the 1st chevron at 100m and so on. As for click's once I centered it I haven't used it anymore but the range finder I find is quite usefull.
 
Most all recent posp scopes that I'm aware of are in moa increments, unless you have the elevation cam/drum that has a 0-8 scale.

The left and right reticle hash marks are indeed in mils.
 
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Each full number increment on my 4x24B AK style scope is 1 mil, which is about 3.375 MOA from what I understand. So about 1.7 MOA per click. On mine, the 2nd chevron is 6 clicks below the first, as far as I can tell, so that's about 10 MOA... I tried zeroing at 100m, and was hitting a good 14" high at 200m with the 2nd chevron. I'm off to the range to try to sort it out in about a week. In the meantime I'm going to grind some numbers, but I'm thinking it should be zeroed closer to 200m. I think if it's zeroed at 200, you'll be about 3.5 - 4" high at 100, which just happens to be about 1 mil. So click if you really need to hit it, but 200 may be a good battle zero. I'm going to test this out and get to the bottom of it... (I know sites like Kalinka have manuals up that say to zero at 100, and the other 2 chevs are 2 and 300m, but it just doesn't work for me.)
 
bosro said:
Yes I am going to send him an email today...
Some of the empties have hit the little threaded thing on the bottom of the scope,Part of the illumination circuit.
My gun seems to be kicking em back a bit farther than expected.
The illuminated reticle really isn't a big deal,sort of a cool feature but I really probably won't ever use it much.
Click to expand...

I'm sure the fine people at interammo will help you out. One thing that I like about the russian/soviet scopes is that they're tough but low tech that you actually have a chance at fixing some of their issues yourself.

For those whose warrenties have expired, and who are having trouble with their reticles NOT illuminating, try this website on how to fix this problem www. posp. ru/il-rep.html
 
Ok, here's a little update. I just ground some of those numbers, using what I think is pretty reliable ballistic data I found for the round.

First off, last time I was at the range, I had 4 good groups, each at setting 2, 2.5, 3, and 4 on my scope, at 100m. Not a huge sample, but it turned out that each click (.5) was 1.54 MOA.. 9% under the theoretical if each 2 clicks = 1 mil for the elevation knob, or 54% above the 2 clicks = 1 MOA. Take your pick.

So then I wanted to find out why my groups were 14-16" high at 200m, using a 100m zero, and aiming with the 2nd chevron. More numbers, and it turned out they'd be ~17" high! Sounds about like what happened. (what actually happened was I just had 1 of 10 shots clip the top of my target, and judging by the size of the groups I was getting, I figured it'd be about 14 - 16" up.

Next, I wanted to find out what those chevrons really are for. So I stapled a few more peices of paper together, roughly sketched the arc out to 600m ( Not tooo rough, I'm pretty confident with the graph). Well, my 2nd Chevron, used on a 200m zero hit 20" high at 300m.. hmm (btw, if you were to click up or down from the first or 2nd chev to correct this, it seems to hit half way. it's roughly 3 click up from the first chevron). But it crossed within 3" at the 400m point! And sure enough, the 3rd chevron crossed within a few inches at 600m.

Well, a while back, I remember someone posting that they zeroed at 200m, and they said something like "then I should be good out to 400 and 600m", but they didn't give an explanation. I believe it now though. Only thing left to do is find a 600m range in the Vancouver area, or someone with a range finder and a car to park out there. Any volunteers?

PM me if anyone wants to talk about the numbers. I tried to account for the scope being 3.5 inches above the barrel too. Anyways, I'm going to be zeroing in at 200m next trip to the range. Maybe I'll zero at 100m, shoot at 200m, and snap a few pictures to show that 17" offset high using the 2nd chevron... I think I may make a separate post about this, because it's bothered me for a while that everywhere I look (mostly sites selling the scope) seem to think it's 100m, 200m, and 300m for the drop compensation. Maybe there are different reticules out there (ignoring the 7.62x54r ones, and diff range finders.. I mean different spacing of chevrons for ones calibrated for 7.62x39), so if anyone else has had a different experience with a diff model, I'd be interested to hear (Mine is POSP 4x24B (or V? Cyrillic confusion?), AK style, 400m range finder)

(Edit, addition) Just another thought about the 200m zero. From my graph (hoping it's not way off base), it appears the closer POI is right around 35-40m. I read somewhere that Russian soldiers did their battle zero at 21m/200m. This would work on my graph if the scope is mounted about 2" up. The extra 1 3/8" that mine is up seems to be a factor. The AK style scope must sit lower off an actual AK. So if you have a lower sitting SVD style, it may be something to consider. For me, it looks like my zero will be 35/200.. just have to test it.
 
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Steve9000 said:
Ok, here's a little update. I just ground some of those numbers, using what I think is pretty reliable ballistic data I found for the round.

First off, last time I was at the range, I had 4 good groups, each at setting 2, 2.5, 3, and 4 on my scope, at 100m. Not a huge sample, but it turned out that each click (.5) was 1.54 MOA.. 9% under the theoretical if each 2 clicks = 1 mil for the elevation knob, or 54% above the 2 clicks = 1 MOA. Take your pick.

So then I wanted to find out why my groups were 14-16" high at 200m, using a 100m zero, and aiming with the 2nd chevron. More numbers, and it turned out they'd be ~17" high! Sounds about like what happened. (what actually happened was I just had 1 of 10 shots clip the top of my target, and judging by the size of the groups I was getting, I figured it'd be about 14 - 16" up.

Next, I wanted to find out what those chevrons really are for. So I stapled a few more peices of paper together, roughly sketched the arc out to 600m ( Not tooo rough, I'm pretty confident with the graph). Well, my 2nd Chevron, used on a 200m zero hit 20" high at 300m.. hmm (btw, if you were to click up or down from the first or 2nd chev to correct this, it seems to hit half way. it's roughly 3 click up from the first chevron). But it crossed within 3" at the 400m point! And sure enough, the 3rd chevron crossed within a few inches at 600m.

Well, a while back, I remember someone posting that they zeroed at 200m, and they said something like "then I should be good out to 400 and 600m", but they didn't give an explanation. I believe it now though. Only thing left to do is find a 600m range in the Vancouver area, or someone with a range finder and a car to park out there. Any volunteers?

PM me if anyone wants to talk about the numbers. I tried to account for the scope being 3.5 inches above the barrel too. Anyways, I'm going to be zeroing in at 200m next trip to the range. Maybe I'll zero at 100m, shoot at 200m, and snap a few pictures to show that 17" offset high using the 2nd chevron... I think I may make a separate post about this, because it's bothered me for a while that everywhere I look (mostly sites selling the scope) seem to think it's 100m, 200m, and 300m for the drop compensation. Maybe there are different reticules out there (ignoring the 7.62x54r ones, and diff range finders.. I mean different spacing of chevrons for ones calibrated for 7.62x39), so if anyone else has had a different experience with a diff model, I'd be interested to hear (Mine is POSP 4x24B (or V? Cyrillic confusion?), AK style, 400m range finder)

(Edit, addition) Just another thought about the 200m zero. From my graph (hoping it's not way off base), it appears the closer POI is right around 35-40m. I read somewhere that Russian soldiers did their battle zero at 21m/200m. This would work on my graph if the scope is mounted about 2" up. The extra 1 3/8" that mine is up seems to be a factor. The AK style scope must sit lower off an actual AK. So if you have a lover sitting SVD style, it may be something to consider. For me, it looks like my zero will be 35/200.. just have to test it.
Click to expand...
WTF!!!
ybtrajec.jpg

How the hell is this even possible???
If you want to meet up at Poco this weekend I'll show you how it's done.
Basicaly zero the middle cheveron @ 25 meter's and make sure they are about a 1/2" above the aim point (no more than a 1"). Then shoot at 200 meter's and correct everything using the same middle cheveron you should notice your preatty much bang on. Now on 100 meter's you will print on 1 piece of paper and also at 300 meter's you will print on 2 sheets of paper.
Remeber after 300 meter's the x39's accuracy goes out the window.
 
So I take it by middle chevron, you mean the uppermost? So you're zeroing at 200m, just like I said. How high are your groups at 100m? I'm guessing about 3-4". Do you use the 2nd and 3rd chevrons? The scope is advertised as being able to take a zero on the 1st chevron at 100m, and use the 2nd for 200m. That's just not what I'm experiencing. Oh, and the data points I used were in line with the dotted line on that graph you posted, so it's not like that's way off.
 
The pic is posted in yards not meter's so at 225 yards that would be almost the same as 200 meter's.
Now you will notice 3 reticale's like this;
#1) ^
#2) ^

#3) ^

The top tip of #2 peak of the ^ should be centered on at 200 meter's. Meaning the groups should be hiting centered group of an 8" by 8" target. Then #1's group should be almost bang on @ 100 meter's 4" target and #3 should be covering an 16" group. When using the Czech surplus.

Just remeber the main reason for this rounds development was for large volumes of fire. It is not a supper precise round or rifle. Also after 300 meter's the accuarcy of this round and engry start dropping like a rock.
 
Satain said:
The pic is posted in yards not meter's so at 225 yards that would be almost the same as 200 meter's.
Now you will notice 3 reticale's like this;
#1) ^
#2) ^

#3) ^

The top tip of #2 peak of the ^ should be centered on at 200 meter's. Meaning the groups should be hiting centered group of an 8" by 8" target. Then #1's group should be almost bang on @ 100 meter's 4" target and #3 should be covering an 16" group. When using the Czech surplus.

Just remeber the main reason for this rounds development was for large volumes of fire. It is not a supper precise round or rifle. Also after 300 meter's the accuarcy of this round and engry start dropping like a rock.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I'm starting to think we have different spacing on our chevrons. I'll try your way of zeroing next trip, shoot a few targets, then try my way and see what's up. I graphed it out better tonight, using a range of ballistic data I found on the net, and came up with the same result for my particular scope. 200m zero (maxes out at about +3.5 somewhere around 100- 125m out), 400m 2nd chev, 600m 3rd (margin of error out there was about 9 MOA, probably realistically more. I'd think you'd be lucky to lob one into an 8'x8' target).

BTW, I heard you had the SVD style (about .5" lower than mine), and I tried that scope offset from the bore on my chart. It came out with your zero for 200 hitting at about 27m (as opposed to mine at about 33m). Makes sense if you use that 2nd chev for your zero at 25 and hit at 200m. I'm just almost positive that if I did that, then tried using the top chevron at 100m, I'd be way low. It's a 10MOA adjustment, to compensate for being 3-4" high? I think I'd be about 8" low at 100m then..

Theory is one thing, action is another. Time to go to the range.
 
Guys I'm just looking at Interammo's site and noticed something. The 4x24B reticule is the only one that looks like BDC to me. It looks like all the others use equal spacing betweeen the chevrons, but the bullet will drop more the farther out it gets right? The lower chevron on the B looks alot farther down than the 2nd chevron is from the top chevron. Teapot, could you clarify please?
 
The spacing on my chevrons, is 6 clicks from the top to 2nd (which is 3mil, about 10 MOA), and another 11 clicks from 2nd to 3rd, for 17 total (almost 29 MOA). I know M43 ballistics aren't good, but it's not supposed to drop off nearly that fast at 200 and 300m. (btw, my drum is numbered 0-20, in 1mil increments, 2 clicks per mil.)
 
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